The Glam Laboratory

A Lesson in Chemistry

2011-07-20T08:23:00.005-04:00

As usual, I was browsing my twitter timeline when I came across something that made my eyebrows raise. What I read reminded me of how little "normal" people know about chemistry. By normal, I mean people that aren't as nerdily passionate about chemistry as I. Although I'm a cosmetic chemist, I enjoy and have studied all areas of chemistry which leads me to this pet peeve...

The elements in a compound alone do not determine the properties of the compound.

I want to keep this quick, so allow me to use an example. Take water and peroxide, for instance. Notice that they have unique names, yet they are made of the same 2 elements-- Hydrogen and Oxygen. What is the difference between the two? Well, the number of molecules for starters. Water contains 2 molecules of hydrogen per 1 molecule of Oxygen hence the notation H2O. Peroxide, on the other hand, contains 2 molecules of Hydrogen per 2 molecules of Oxygen and is noted as H2O2. They also differ in structure. The molecules in water occupy the same plane, however, peroxide molecules occupy 2 planes. **To visualize the planes consider a sheet of paper. In a water molecule, everything lays flat on the sheet of paper. However, in a peroxide molecule half of the compound lays flat on the paper and the other half sticks out of the paper.

Water Molecule

Peroxide Molecule

The number of molecules and their structure/arrangement in the compound make water and hydrogen peroxide very different. In fact, while water is safe to ingest and apply to skin, the same is not true for peroxide. In low concentrations, peroxide can be applied to the skin and even swished around in your mouth. BUT in higher concentrations, H2O2 is highly corrosive and will cause serious chemical burns to your skin and mouth. One job I held in undergrad required me to work with very concentrated peroxide. I had to be very careful to properly dilute it to prevent injury to myself and those using the finished product. H2O2 is NO JOKE!

I used the example of water and peroxide because it was among the simplest I could think of. However, these types of major differences can be seen between all kinds of compounds that happen to share elements or similar structures. Keep this in mind when assessing your cosmetics ingredients or when you see things like "Propylene Glycol is used in anti-freeze. It can't possibly be safe in cosmetics." Give me a break! A lot must be considered in the assessment of chemical safety including stuff like steric tension, hydrogen bonds, concentration... You get the picture.

That's enough of my nerdy pet peeve... Here's to the Glam Life!

Color Therapy

2011-07-18T15:10:00.003-04:00

One of the reasons I started this blog was to encourage self esteem through cosmetics. That may sound superficial to some, however, I see it as very real and very necessary. Cosmetics help enhance the beauty we already have. Though I'm not a makeup wearer, I do see how makeup makes women feel good. When you think of makeup, you think of color... a rainbow of colors in just about every shade, hue and intensity you can think of. Have you ever considered the role color cosmetics play in enhancing a woman's overall esteem? I'm not talking about masking imperfections. I'm talking about makeup artistry-- using the face as a canvas to create art and freedom of expression.

The fact that color appeals to one of the five senses is a clear indication that it can affect us on a deeper level. Color has the capacity to incite or simply complement a full range of emotions and moods. In my daily life, I use nail polish as a form of color therapy. I like to wear colors that make me feel happy and pretty. I'm a bright color kind of girl. That's not to say I wear neon nail polish, but I tend to avoid colors on the darker end of the spectrum. Yesterday, I fell in love with a periwinkle blue color that has been brightening every second of my life since I brushed it on. This color reminds me of a clear blue sky over a body of water. It is just so pure. To complete the therapy, I added big yellow polka dots to one nail. That's like my sunshine. Of course a mani will only last so long, but I'm taking in every moment of this one.

Don't be afraid to use a little color to brighten your days, too. Here's to the Glam Life!

In the Lab: Product Inspiration

2011-07-13T13:02:00.008-04:00

I gather a lot of product inspiration from fashion and home design. It may sound strange, but somehow I can translate the colors and designs of clothes and home accessories into cosmetics and fragrance. There was a spread in the July 2011 issue of Vogue that immediately drew me in. "Spellbound", as it was appropriately named, was inspired by "1940's film noir chic". Anything old hollywood screams richness and luxury to me. That can be creatively translated into lip and eye color, nail lacquer and even high end fragrance.

The basis of my product idea stemmed from the fact that film and tv in the 1940's was completely black and white. What a perfect canvas for bold colors, textures and prints! The most striking page in the spread featured Lara Stone in a beautifully tailored Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere shirtwaist dress (2011RTW). With bold colors of fuschia, shades of orange, royal blue/purple, red and mustard yellow set on a white background, I was staring at a palette of inspiration. I think this dress spoke to me so deeply because I've always been attracted to that kind of paisley-esque floral. In fact, I've been stalking this dinnerware set in a similar print at Target for months. I just can't muster a good excuse to purchase it.

So imagine my joy when I met with my latest joint venture partner and she unveiled swatches of colors that had been dancing around in my head for the last two weeks. Talk about thrilled! Glam girls think alike :-)

We'll revisit this post when it's time to reveal the new project. Until then, take note: Beauty and fashion walk hand in hand. If you want to succeed in the beauty industry (especially color cosmetics) you must keep a close eye what the fashion industry is doing.

Here's to the Glam Life!

Cracking the Code: Shea Butter and SPF

2011-06-24T15:14:00.004-04:00

On more than one occasion, I have heard and seen shea butter being purported as a sunscreen. While I know this to be untrue, I thought it would be a good idea to explain where this particular shea butter myth comes from, what's true and what's not.

Natural, unrefined Shea butter is very complex. If you've ever melted pure shea butter and noticed a gritty texture when it cooled, then you've experienced firsthand just how complex it is. The chemical component that people attribute to shea butter's sun protection is cinnamic acid. Cinnamic acid does, indeed, have UV absorption properties in the 250-300 nm wavelength (UVB). However, the concentration of cinnamic acid in shea butter is not strong enough to provide any real sun protection. Even when shea butter is standardized for a higher concentration of cinnamic acid, it still doesn't provide substantial sun protection. Alternatively, the cinnamic acid in shea butter can work in synergy with organic sunscreen actives (ex: OM-Cinnamate)to give a broader spectrum SPF (more UVB protection and maybe some UVA protection). **We'll discuss synergy in a later post.

To sum it all up, shea butter alone is not enough to protect your skin from the harmful rays of the sun. It may (or may not) give your sunscreen of choice an extra boost of sun protection when applied separately. The synergy more than likely works better in the actual formulation. If you're looking for a sunscreen with broad spectrum protection, shea butter is an ingredient that you probably want to see in the ingredients list. Plus, you get all the other benefits of shea butter with just one product.

Here's to the Glam Life!

The Spirit of Competition

2011-04-11T16:20:00.004-04:00

It is inevitable, every business has competition. There's always going to be another company that offers the same or similar products/services as your own. As the saying goes-- There's nothing new under the sun. In order to grow a strong, successful cosmetic company, you must familiarize yourself with the competition and learn how to compete. Most people understand the concept of competition, but not everyone knows how to compete effectively.

The biggest mistake I see startups make is trying to make a product too much like one that already exists. What I find fascinating is that usually companies start out with a very unique idea yet end up with a product that is not equally unique. I know exactly how it happens because I've seen it a time or two. In the midst of studying the competition and seeing what it is that people like about their products, you start to convince yourself that consumers will only find use for products that are just like the ones that already exist. Oh ye of little faith! Give consumers a little credit... they like what they like until something comes along that is.... drumroll.... BETTER. Understand that an existing company has already carved out it's fan base. There are consumers who use those products loyally because of product performance and the relationship that has been built over time. To introduce a product to the marketplace that virtually already exists is a huge risk. It's challenging enough to convince consumers to give your product a try so when they do try it, give them a reason to keep coming back. The key to being able to compete and (ultimately) win, is to stand out. Below are my 5 tips to winning in business:

1. Decide what you want to sell and who you want to compete with.

2. Get to know what your competition has done to find success.

3. Improve on what your competition has to offer. **When I say improve on the competition, I don't mean take their exact product and add a little something to it. I mean study the benefits and results their product. Find out what their fans love about their product and then develop your own product that tops the competition.

4. Customize your product/brand to suit YOU ie your personality, style, thought processes, etc.

5a. Market it.

5b. Market it some more. Branding and visibility go a loooooonnnnng way in getting your product(s) the attention they deserve.

If you follow my advice, you'll be well on your way to thriving business.

Here's to the Glam Life!

Beauty Reflections

2011-04-09T11:42:00.004-04:00

I just spent about 10 minutes in the mirror analyzing my skin... studying it, assessing the flaws and thinking of a master plan to make it perfect. This past week has been a complete disaster in the beauty department. I make no apologies for being vain... and when I say vain, I mean I care a whole lot about my appearance. I want my hair to be perfect and when it's not it can ruin my day. I want my skin to be clear, soft, pore-less and glowing... when it's not, I'm nearly depressed. This morning, I sat in deep reflection about skin and hair care from a personal perspective. I thought, "My skin and hair could probably take care of itself if I just let it." I believe that wholeheartedly.

I stopped using shampoo back in September (6-7 months ago) because I developed a product that cleansed the hair without stripping the natural oils. That was one of the best things I could have done for my hair (and my daughter's). I was reminded of just how harsh shampoo can be when I decided to use it last weekend and experienced the biggest hair trauma of my life... complete with dramatic tears and sound effects smh. My hair, especially my natural hair, is better off without the suds. I'm beginning to think the same is true for my skin. I'm not willing to eliminate my soap and body wash, but I think it's time to throw out my facial cleanser and allow my skin take care of itself. Don't get me wrong, I'm still going to put the good stuff in. I won't be letting go of my toner, exfoliators or moisturizers. I just think that maybe I'm doing too much by using a cleanser to "clean" my face. How dirty could it be? With using a cleanser I've noticed my skin has changed from dry to combination... but not in the typical areas. I don't have t-zone issues alone, my cheeks may break out too. O_O I NEVER had issues with breakouts before. I also started to see my pores in the smile line area between my nose and mouth. That is not cool at all. Halfway through my skin care bootcamp this past week, I stopped using my cleanser. Instead, I rinsed my face with warm water and used my white tea toner and aloe. My dry patches are clearing and my pores are returning to normal size. From a scientist's perspective, I think the cleanser may have been throwing off my skin's natural ability to regulate itself.

This is not to say that I think everyone should throw out their shampoo/cleanser. But as a person with naturally dry skin and hair, I don't need it. I rarely wear makeup (only eyeliner and mascara when I go out). Nor do I put a lot of product in my hair between washes. Someone that did either may still need to use a little bubble action in their beauty regimen. Just remember, if bubbles are involved, conditioning and moisturizing is not an option, it is a requirement.

What are your beauty reflections? Have you considered changing the way you care for your hair and skin? Tell us about it!

Here's to the Glam Life!

DIY Skin Care Recipes

2011-04-05T21:01:00.009-04:00

It's been quite awhile since I've posted on the blog. I really wish that weren't true because I have so much to share. I literally have about 20 blog titles written down in my little journal, I just haven't had the time to post. I've been super busy in the lab making magic for my clients and I just recently moved to a new location. :-D

I rarely share skin care recipes, but since I've slacked off so much here, I think it's ok. On March 26, 2011, my first ever television segment aired on WXYZ Channel 7 News (Detroit). There I shared 2 very easy and effective skin care recipes that you can whip up in your kitchen. The recipes are posted below the video. And for those of you who are wondering, yes I do actually use these recipes. I use the toner daily and the mask as needed (1 or 2x a week). Right now I'm doing a skin care bootcamp because my temperamental skin has decided to act out on me o_O. So this week I'm doing a version of the mask everyday.

Here's to the Glam Life!

Antioxidant Facial Toner

What you’ll need:

1 cup of boiling water
1 bag of green or white tea
(I use white tea with blueberry and pomegranate)
1 tsp of pure honey

Directions:

Add the honey to hot water and stir.

Steep the tea in the honey and hot water mixture for 2 minutes.

Let tea cool to warm or room temperature.

Apply toner to the face and neck using your fingertips in an upward circular motion.

Let dry for 15-30 seconds before applying moisturizer or facial mask.

Strawberry Cream Facial Mask

What you’ll need:

3 strawberries, chopped
1 tsp of wheatgerm
(Can substitute with oatmeal)
2 tbsp (Organic) Whole Milk Plain Yogurt

Directions:

Mash the strawberries in a clean, dry bowl.

Add the wheatgerm (oatmeal) to the strawberries and mix.

Add the yogurt to the mixture and stir until completely mixed.

Apply to damp face and neck with fingertips. Feel free to lay it on thick.

Let dry for 15-20 minutes.

Rinse with warm water. Pat dry. Apply moisturizer.

Beauty Product Challenge

2011-01-09T20:14:00.004-05:00

I wanted to start the year off with a challenge for my readers-- consumers and fellow formulators alike. While natural products are all the rage these days, it can be difficult to find "all natural" products that can compete on all levels with their synthetic counterparts. Before you allow yourself to think that natural formulators need to step it up, allow me to give a little insight.

A great deal of the ingredients used in cosmetics are needed to enhance the appearance and texture of an otherwise effective product. Formulators go to great lengths to ensure that their finished products feel great on the skin and also look good in the jar/bottle. I'm willing to bet most of us have never considered the level of effort that it takes to make a crystal clear bath gel that also smells like berries. Some of the very ingredients on the chopping block are only used to the more superficial expectations of the consumer.

My own laboratory work is limited from time to time because I have to make sure the products are not only effective, but also look/feel like something consumers have seen/felt before. When you're working with natural ingredients that have their own color and texture mixed in with their amazing benefits, things get tricky.

SO HERE'S THE CHALLENGE

I challenge consumers to throw out all of their preconceived thoughts on what a cosmetic should look or feel like. Forget that creams and lotions are "supposed" to be pure white. Pretend that liquid hand soap was meant to be a little cloudy. Allow a cosmetic to improve your skin over a period of time instead of expecting instantly silky hands and legs. If you say you want natural, give natural a real shot. This way, formulators can focus on creating products that truly give long term benefits as opposed pretty colors and short lived instant gratification.

I also challenge formulators to push natural products even if they are a little different than what consumers are used to. Someone will be willing to try it... and when they love it, the word will spread.

Let's step out of the monotony and jump into something new, unique, different and worth it. Here's to the Glam Life!

A Lesson in Elasticity

2010-12-02T20:16:00.005-05:00

Elasticity is a very important factor in assessing the strength of hair. The elasticity of the hair is an indicator of what styles and/or processes your hair can withstand. When hair has low elasticity, it will not hold a curl well (thermal or wet styled) and it is more prone to damage caused by styling and chemical treatments. Basically, hair with low elasticity is weak and must be handled with care.

Chemical treatments including relaxers, permanent wave, color and even keratin should be preceded by an elasticity strand test to ensure minimal (ideally zero) breakage occurs. But you should also consider performing an elasticity test before going to wacky with the hooded dryer, blow dryer, round brush and flat iron because this requires good elasticity, too. One way to test your hair's elasticity is to take a [full length] strand of hair from your comb or brush. Hold the strand with the index finger and thumb of both hands about 2 inches apart. Quickly and firmly pull the strand of hair. If the strand snaps, it has low elasticity; If it remains in tack, it has good elasticity.

Another strand test that is equally as fun is what I call the "ribbon curl" test. Hold a strand of hair between the index finger and thumb of one hand. With the index finger and thumb of the opposite hand, use your thumb nail to firmly run along the length of the strand so that it curls. -- This is similar to curling a ribbon with scissors. -- Now stretch the curl until the strand is straight then let it go. If the strand returns to the original curl pattern, it has good elasticity. If it returns to at least half the original curl, it has moderate elasticity. If it stays straight, your hair is in bad shape :(.

Many factors affect the elasticity of the hair. Excessive heat styling, combing/brushing when the hair is wet and chemical treatments can all have a devastating effect on your hair's level of elasticity. If after performing the strand test you find that your hair has low elasticity, avoid all of the above styling faux pas. Hair elasticity can be improved by giving your hair what it lacks... PROTEIN! Hair is 100% protein (keratin). Hair with low elasticity has weaker protein bonds than that of good elasticity. Nevertheless protein treatments are a good idea for everyone sooooo... Run, run, run to your nearest beauty supply to purchase a deep conditioning protein treatment.

Here's to the Glam Life!

Hair, Hair and More Hair!

2010-11-18T20:25:00.005-05:00

Wednesday evening, I gave a speech entitled "Hair, Hair and More Hair!" at my Toastmasters International club. I covered a lot in that 9min 30sec speech that I have not yet covered here... so, here it goes. :-)

I've always been completely fascinated and intrigued by hair. My mom has maintained her cosmetology license for nearly 30 years, so I grew up a tad more knowledgeable and obsessive about my hair than many other little girls. In addition to working on a hair care line in the lab, I recently decided to make a drastic change in the way that I manage my hair. Enter even more obsessive behavior O_O. As the glam girl in me was reading about various hair textures and styles and treatments, the scientist in me peeked in to ask a few questions. A scientist that has questions cannot rest until they have answers, so you can probably guess how my "research" grew wings.

How does hair get it's texture?

The texture of any one person's hair depends on the shape and size of the hair follicle. There are 4 general shapes of a hair follicle which happen to correlate perfectly with Andre Walker's hair types philosophy. A hair follicle is like a tiny tube that guides the hair to the surface of the scalp. A round hair follicle yields straight hair. The more oval the hair follicle, the more curly the hair it yields.

Similarly, the thickness of hair is dependent on the size of the hair follicle. Large follicles produce thick strands of hair while smaller follicles produce thin strands of hair.

What I really wanted to know was the real science behind hair texture. I was interested in why hair texture differs across and within ethnic groups. Could it be genetic? Hormonal? Due to human adaptation/evolution? Apparently, the type of hair your parents have definitely determines the type of hair you end up with, whether that is straight, wavy or curly. Just last year, a study showed that variants of a particular gene determine how curly your hair will be. Scientists still aren't clear exactly which variants play a part or how they work.

The fact that some people have hair that changes textures throughout their lifetime hints that hormonal changes may be at work. There are even cases of caucasian people with thick, coarse hair like that of African and African American people. It's a rare occurrence, but it happens often enough to have a name-- "Wooly Hair Syndrome". Imagine that.

While I'm slightly disappointed that all of my questions were not answered, the research is well on it's way. I look forward to finding out what factors are at work in determining our hair texture. I hear that the research is being pushed because the findings are a gold mine. There may be a pill developed that could change your hair texture from straight to curly and back straight. My curiosity didn't take me to that train of thought (that's bordering on mad scientist territory imo), nevertheless, I find it all muy interesante...

So, what's your hair texture? Does it change from time to time?

Here's to the Glam Life!

So Dry, So Unfortunate

2010-11-11T15:47:00.002-05:00

It's that time of year again when my skin starts going absolutely nuts. About 3 or 4 years ago, the skin on my hands became really dry and chapped. It was so bad that my finger tips could snag soft material and if I rubbed my hands together you could hear it... clearly. O_O It was devastating for a gal like me, but I tried to ignore it. After all, I was taking 2 lab courses in school and working part time in an industrial lab as well. I thought it came with the territory. But now that I'm done with school and I'm not working with harsh chemicals, I still find myself with the ever dreaded, severely dry skin.

Normally in the fall and winter months, the biting winds and blistering cold take the blame for the dry skin epidemic. However, thus far I have only had to wear a coat twice, so it was time to dig a little deeper...

pH Makes the World Go Round...

The pH of normal skin is mildly acidic ranging between 4 and 6.5. A good moisturizer will not only contain key moisturizing and nourishing ingredients, but it will also have a pH in the range of normal skin. Using products that are too acidic (pH less than 4) or too basic (alkaline, pH greater than 7) can cause irritation and dry skin. Some products will indicate the pH on the label, but don't count on it. If you really want to know if your dry skin troubles are due to the products you're using, pick up some pH paper from your local craft store and see for yourself. Unfortunately, most soaps and cleansers have a pH much higher than 6.5. So daily bathing can be an uphill battle. Dare I recommend skipping a full body lather and only "hit the hot spots" once or twice throughout the week? It's a bold proposition, but desperate times...

What if your products are not to blame?

I'm almost running out of things to blame for my dry skin dismay... it's not the weather (directly) nor is it the pH of my topical cosmetics. However, pH is not just an external factor. Your internal fluids have a pH as well. Aha! Maybe we're on to something. An internal pH that is too acidic or too basic can have a negative effect on your body in many ways, one of which is dry skin. The fact that I always have dry skin, but it worsens in the fall/winter peaks my scientific interest. I plan to take a deeper look into my eating habits and how they differ in the warm months vs the cold months... stay tuned for an update from my mini research project.

Meanwhile, what have you discovered are your dry skin triggers? What are your cures? All the dry skin Glam Girls want to know!

Here's to the Glam Life!

Not Tested On Animals

2010-10-18T19:24:00.004-04:00

I've seen the claim "Not Tested On Animals" more times than I can count. I recently saw it while browsing Etsy, so I thought now was a perfect time to address it.

I'll start by saying: I don't know of any cosmetic end product that has been tested on animals. IF any exist, they are few and far between. The typical testing that cosmetic companies undergo involve test tubes, beakers, volumetric flasks, graduated cylinders, analytical instrumentation and human subjects... NOT animals.

So where does the claim come from?

The claims "Not Tested on Animals" or "Cruelty Free" are mere marketing claims meant to appeal to the consumer that opposes animal testing. Once upon a time, animal testing of cosmetics was commonly used to assess the safety of cosmetic raw materials and/or end products. Because this testing method was once widely used, many veteran cosmetic raw materials have been tested in this way. For this reason alone, the claim may not hold any weight (but it sounds good, right?).

That doesn't mean it's obsolete

The advancement of technology and testing methods have eliminated the need for animal testing in most instances. Even still, the FDA will support the (responsible) use of animal testing to substantiate product safety. By "responsible" I mean using as few animals as possible, as humanely as possible, while still obtaining enough information to draw a conclusion. Because animal testing is a legal and acceptable (by FDA standards) form of product testing, it may still occur today. However, it is not likely for typical end products or raw materials.

Playing Devil's Advocate

I understand the objection to animal testing and as a cosmetic manufacturer, I do not foresee employing this strategy. HOWEVER, if a product/ingredient needed to be tested in living, fully functional skin-- would you rather it get the initial trial run on an animal? or on a fellow human? Which is really more "humane"? Just food for thought.

Here's to the Glam Life!

Moving On Up!

2010-10-05T09:52:00.005-04:00

I promised myself back in August that I would take the time to recognize my accomplishments and give myself a pat on the back before I return to business as usual. So in keeping with my promise, I have to acknowledge the fact that I've reached one of my major goals for 2010.

Writing is something that I enjoy and I'm able to use it as a tool to share some of the things I've learned over time- hence this blog. I'm pleased to say that now my blog is not the only avenue I've used to blab about cosmetic science. My very first published (in print) article can be found in the October issue of Skin Inc Magazine. My goal was more than just getting published. I wanted to contribute to a magazine that served my clients and my peers. Skin Inc is just that! As a notable, well respected spa business solution magazine, Skin Inc reaches spas, salons, estheticians, makeup artists, manicurists and cosmetologists as well as cosmetic scientists like myself and entrepreneurs looking to jump into the market.

I am honored that I was given the opportunity to submit my work to such a major magazine in the industry. This is the first, but it most certainly is not the last.

Read my article on the Skin Inc website: Excellent Extracts Consider it your dose of cosmetic science for the day/week.

So what did I do to celebrate? I treated myself to a Grande White Chocolate Mocha from Starbucks which I am sipping as we speak. It's the little things :-)

Here's to the Glam Life!

pH and Hair Care

2010-09-22T21:01:00.005-04:00

I started a new project in the lab last week that inspired this blog post. While developing new products, a lot of "tests" are done to make sure all is as it should be. One test that is a constant for all (most) products is pH. pH indicates the level of acidity (or basicity pOH) of a substance. pH is important in cosmetic product development because skin and hair have pH too. The products you apply to your skin and hair should work with your body chemistry, not against it.

The pH scale starts at 0 and caps off at 14 with 0 being highly acidic, 14 being highly basic and 7 being neutral (7 is the pH of distilled water). Either end of the scale results in severe chemical burns. The pH of normal, healthy hair ranges from 4.5 to 5.5 (mildly acidic). Similarly, the pH of basic hair care products range between 4 and 6. Color treated and/or damaged hair tends to have a more basic (alkaline) pH. In a basic environment, the cuticle layer of the hair stands out and appears frayed or split. In order to treat damaged hair, a hair product must be more acidic to smooth the cuticle layer resulting in less tangles and higher shine. The process of treating alkaline hair with acidic products is what is meant by "pH balanced". Knowing that damaged hair has a higher pH indicates that a normal pH hair care product may not be very effective in treating damaged hair.

Putting it all together

I'm sure you've noticed that hair care products are marketed for certain hair types ie dry/damaged/split ends, normal, oily, etc. While these products will often use different ingredients to garner results, one key factor is pH. A formulator will know if the product has a chance of working just by taking the pH of the final formula. I have rarely seen the pH of a hair care product disclosed on the packaging. So as the consumer, you need to get a little crafty. Before trying a product, I suggest you pick up your own supply of pH (litmus) paper and do a quick test. The ideal pH would be 4 or 4.5 to work well on all hair types. No matter how damaged your hair may appear, you never want a product with a pH lower than 3-- and even that's pushing it. **Keep in mind, the pH test only works for products/treatments that contain water.

You're now just a pH test away from gorgeous, healthy hair ;-) Here's to the Glam Life!

Since it Can't be Priceless...

2010-08-29T23:58:00.003-04:00

I promised to start adding a splash of business development posts to the blog, so here's the first.

One of the most important things to consider when you're looking to launch a product is the retail price. Often, potential clients ask me... "How much will the product cost?" Unfortunately, that's not a question I can readily answer. There are a number of factors to consider when thinking about the final cost/price of a product including the ingredients, volume (how much is in the bottle), packaging, target market and profit margin. I encourage clients to determine what price will suit their target market and also how much profit they would like to make per unit BEFORE we begin the project. Everything else can be adjusted along the way. Often, a contract manufacturer can deliver the results you seek within your budget. The key is to know up front.

While catching up on my reading, I stumbled upon an article on Entrepreneur.com about landing major retail placement. Among the tips was planning ahead for profit. Read that article here

I added it to my bookmarks for future reference, I recommend you do the same.

Here's to the Glam Life!

Hope For Your Mani

2010-08-22T12:05:00.008-04:00

I was watching The Rachel Zoe Project with my bestie earlier this week and of all the things to comment on, she said "Is her nail polish chipping?!" Yes, Rachel Zoe's nail polish was chipping and frankly it always is. Like most girly girls, I absolutely love nail polish and I simply hate when it chips. But the truth is, nail polish just can't be great on natural nails.

Why not?!

Nail polish is made of plasticizers, film formers, solvents etc that temporarily adhere to the nail beds. Women that wear nail enhancements like acrylic, gel or wraps don't experience chipping within a few days like with natural nails. The difference is, our natural nails have oils and moisture that prevent the nail polish from really gripping the surface. Nail enhancements create a barrier between the natural nail and the nail polish that prevents oil and moisture from inhibiting the performance of the polish. In addition to that, our natural nails are flexible. When our nails bend, they create minor cracks in the film (nail polish) that eventually result in chipping. Since gels and acrylics are rigid the polish doesn't have the chance to crack.

That's the bad news, here's the help...

I don't typically need my nail polish to last for too long because I can only wear it when I don't have lab work. Of course, I'm the exception, everybody else at least wants one full week. The key is to create a barrier between your natural nail and the nail polish. That barrier should also make your nails stronger and prevent a lot of the bend and crack issue. Nail glue to the rescue! This is a cheap trick that you can try at home. It causes no damage to your natural nail and it doesn't take a lot of time to do. Buy a small bottle of that brush on nail glue and apply a THIN coat to your natural nails. Let it dry and proceed with your normal nail polish application fun... basecoat, 2 coats of polish and top coat.

Let me know how much longer your mani lasts now... Here's to the Glam Life!

Oh, manicurists, leave a comment with any other tips and tricks you may have to help mani's last longer. Thanks!

EVERYBODY Wants One...

2010-08-16T19:01:00.004-04:00

I get inquiries for all kinds of product development ideas. Usually, the products I'm asked to develop have differentiable features, but one thing I hear probably 85% of the time is *drumroll*

"I want to patent my product."

Is that even possible?

Yes, it is possible to patent a cosmetic product, but it's not likely. Most of the time my prospects believe they can patent the formula to keep it safe from being reverse engineered or reproduced. Unfortunately, that is just not the case. You cannot get a patent on a recipe and a patent certainly won't keep the formula safe. Securing a patent on a cosmetic requires scientific innovation. The patent is not so much on the end product as it is on the process or key ingredient that makes the product unique. The process or key ingredient must be completely new or have a completely new use.

Even if you can, I don't advise it...

When you file for a patent, you must give full disclosure of the product. I'm talking detailed descriptions of the ingredients, the equipment used, the exact formula etc. This kind of transparency means any and everybody has access to the product that was to be the ticket to your million dollar dream. Contrary to popular belief, patented cosmetics can and will be knocked off...legally. Think about it, lip plumpers and eyelash growth products have both been patented. But there are so many of them, who knows which was the original? and what's more, who cares?

My best advice is to develop an amazing product and file for trade secret protection. This way, the most important ingredient that makes your product a cut above the rest can remain a secret. With trade secret protection that ingredient never has to be exposed... Think Colonel Sanders(KFC)and Pepsi. Nobody has done chicken or Cola the way they have.

So while I know it sounds really cool and important to hold a patent on your fabulous product, it's likely more trouble than it's worth. I don't say this to crush dreams.. That's just not what I'm about. I say it only to make you aware before the dream gets too big and is crushed by reality. Think about what's really important-- having a patent, or having a results driven product that makes millions for you in the long run :-) Do you homework and take it to the bank!

Here's to the Glam Life!

Happy Anniversary!!!

2010-08-11T21:26:00.003-04:00

August 11, 2010 marked the first anniversary of Envie Bath and Body. While most people would've found some way to celebrate that milestone, I merely mentioned it briefly on twitter and moved on. Even the fact that I acknowledged the day as being slightly special was big for me. For some reason that is unclear to even me, I rarely "celebrate" anything that I've accomplished. It could be because I have endless goals and dreams. As soon as I reach a goal, it's on to the next. No more than a week ago, I flipped through one of my lab notebooks from college. Looking at that notebook and all the textbooks and notes it was among reminded me of just how hard I've worked to get to where I am. I promised myself that I would begin to celebrate more along my journey... starting now.

*cupcakes, confetti, balloons, and horns* HAPPY ANNIVERSARY!!!!

In just the first year, I have managed to acquire several projects, hosted a fragrance event, had product placement in "swag bags", met a bunch of amazing people, traveled to New York and Chicago on business, written articles for a major industry mag *to be published soon :-) and positioned the company for monumental growth in the next year among other things.

When I actually think about it, I'm proud of myself. So here's my pat on the back... What's next? :-D

I hope you take the time to revel in your greatness as well! Here's to the Glam Life!

Follow the Rules... Pretty Please?

2010-08-09T23:41:00.003-04:00

I often have people approach me to review the ingredients lists of their personal care products. Usually they want to know if the product(s) are as natural as they claim or if the product will work. Most of the time, I'm reviewing mass market products and the ingredients lists are properly written. Other times, I'm disappointed to see that they aren't.

We've already established that I believe in natural ingredients, and also that I have great respect for synthetics... I'm equal opportunity. But when I see natural product companies failing to play by the rules, my red flags go up.. and your's should too. The FDA requires that ingredients be listed in descending order of concentration and by INCI nomenclature. INCI nomenclature is the accepted chemical naming system for the cosmetic industry. So when I see an ingredients list that looks like this (just an example):

Olive Butter, Coconut Oil, Vitamin A, Vitamin E

Instead of like this:

Olea Europea, Caprylic Triglyceride, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol Acetate

... I'm very concerned.

There is so much controversy surrounding the cosmetics industry now, so everyone needs to play by the rules. That includes companies that focus on being completely natural/organic. Even the minor details make an impact on what is "safe" or "unsafe". So while I'm all for natural products and the beauties that use them, I encourage you to demand more from your favorite companies. If you come across a product(s) that has all the ingredients listed in lay-man's terms, please give them a courteous nudge. Let them know that you know better and ask them to do better. Consumer's make the world go round, so do your part... Pretty Please? :-)

And if you really want to do your public service, refer them to me... I'll whip their ingredients lists into shape! :-D

Here's to the Glam Life!

Eczema Relief

2010-08-05T14:01:00.005-04:00

As you may already know, my son has severe eczema. I used a hydrocortisone compound nearly everyday for a year to keep his skin clear. After getting conflicting opinions about whether or not there would be adverse side effects, I chose to discontinue use. Instead, I looked to natural emollients to keep his skin moisturized. Evening Primrose Oil has a standing reputation for being an effective treatment for eczema and psoriasis, so I tried it. I didn't notice any drastic change in the condition of my little man's skin so the search continued. A friend of mine came by and put a little Emu Oil on his arms which instantly stopped the itching and softened his skin. FANTASTIC!... except Emu Oil is expensive 0_0

Finally, I tried Pumpkin Seed Oil. I already use it in a lot of my branded products because of all it's skin benefits, but I never put it on my son. Oh how I wish I tried it sooner! I put it on him after his bath and his skin was still moisturized throughout the day. By Day 2 of using the Pumpkin Seed Oil, I can already see his rough patches clearing and his skin does not appear dry at all. I haven't used ANY lotion, but I'm sure adding that back to the regimen will be even better.

So what's in Pumpkin Seed Oil? AWESOMENESS!

Pumpkin Seed Oil has a significant amount of fatty acids, notably: linoleic, oleic, palmatic and stearic acids. Linoleic acid helps prevent transepidermal water loss. In other words, it keeps moisture in the skin. Oleic acid is a penetration enhancer that helps transport the benefits of a cosmetic to deeper skin layers. Palmitic and stearic acids occur naturally in the skin barrier lipids. Pumpkin seed oil also has a wealth of vitamins and minerals to nourish the skin.

Word to the Wise

This is a heavy oil and a little goes a long way, so use it sparingly. Also, it has a noticeable "nutty" scent just like pumpkin seeds. Although the scent doesn't last, I recommend putting it on at night to avoid smelling like Halloween.

What have you used to treat your eczema?

The Lipstick Theory

2010-07-10T22:00:00.004-04:00

I've been away from the blog for far too long, but with good reason. Things are picking up in the lab and I've been working on a little personal and career development. I recently joined Toastmasters International which is a world reknown public speaking and leadership organization. My primary goal was to refine my speaking skills to position me for a few business goals. I decided to that the cosmetics industry would be the general topic of all of my speeches. This week's speech covered the lipstick theory which I thought to be both timely and interesting. I thought I would share a synopsis of the speech here to let you all into another part of my Glam World. :-)

The lipstick theory arose out of the fact that in spite of economic disaster, women still purchased lipstick. It is representative of the idea that people always need a touch of luxury, even if it is an "affordable luxury" like lipstick. The theory held weight in 2001 following the 9/11 attacks when key players in the industry like Estee Lauder saw an increase in their cosmetics sales. While 9/11 was not quite a major economic disaster, it was certainly a precursor for what we face today.

The recession has shown that the lipstick theory is plausible, although it may be due for a name change. Nail polish has risen as the ultimate female recession buster which is not a great surprise considering the similarities. Both lipstick (lipgloss) and nail polish come in a multitude of colors, styles and textures so there is something for everybody. Color has a way of altering moods and complimenting personalities and styles. Personally, lipgloss and nail polish make me feel feminine and can instantly boost my mood. Women love to feel pretty so even if we can't afford a fancy dress or the fab shoes of the season, we can usually splurge on choice glam cosmetics.

Clearly, this is not the 6 and 1/2 minute speech I gave at my club earlier this week, but that's it in a nutshell (minus the quotes and the numbers, etc). You can expect more of my speech summaries in future blogs. :-)

Sunscreen Actives

2010-05-26T16:47:00.004-04:00

Now that we've discussed what SPF is and how it's determined, we can get into a few of the ingredients that actually deliver the sun protection.

Octyl Methoxycinnamate (octinoxate) is the most common chemical sun blocking agent. It absorbs UVB rays and also has waterproofing qualities which makes it ideal for summertime fun. When exposed to the sun, Octyl Methoxycinnamate loses some of its effectiveness so it is rarely the single sun blocking ingredient found in a sunscreen formula.

Octyl Salicylate is a less effective UVB absorber. It is often used in conjunction with other blocking agents as its effectiveness decreases upon sun exposure. Although uncommon, this ingredient has been known to produce mild skin irritation. There is also concern that this ingredient is a penetration enhancer which means it may make the skin more susceptible to invasion by other topical treatments that ordinarily couldn’t pass through the skin’s natural barriers.

Oxybenzone and its close cousin Sulisobenzone are both photo stable (not affected by sunlight) chemical UVB absorbers. They are typically used to stabilize other UVB absorbers that degrade with sun exposure. These chemicals can possibly be absorbed by the skin and raise concern of free radical invasion.

Titanium Dioxide is a physical sun blocking agent that is effective in the UVB and UVA range of the light spectrum. It covers the full UVB range however it doesn’t reach the peak region of UVA. Titanium Dioxide is a common sun blocker in natural formulations. It is very efficient in preventing sunburn; however since it does not cover the entire UVA spectrum, skin cancer is still a relative concern. Most over the counter sunscreens that contain this ingredient incorporate other chemical and physical UV blockers.

Although Titanium Dioxide is stable, it has been known to cause reactions with other chemicals which again raises the possibility of free radical formation. This ingredient is unsightly as it goes on white and stays white. Titanium Dioxide nanoparticles (super small) are a more esthetically pleasing option because they leave a less noticeable white residue, but the verdict is still out on the safety of such. On a positive note, Titanium Dioxide is not known to cause skin irritation and is even safe to use on sensitive skin.

Zinc Oxide is another common physical sun blocker that is actually more effective and less reactive than Titanium Dioxide. In fact it covers the full range of UVB and UVA wavelengths which makes it the most effective single ingredient sunscreen available. Even so, it is usually used in conjunction with other chemical protectors. Zinc Oxide is not a known skin irritant and it can be used on sensitive skin. Similar to Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide leaves a white residue on the skin. In nanoparticle form there is the threat of formation of free radicals, however, scientists have been successful in coating the nanoparticles to prevent such occurrences.

What's in your favorite sunscreen?

Cracking the Code of SPF

2010-05-17T13:18:00.005-04:00

Late last week, someone tweeted that they were about to put on their SPF 100 lotion. My immediate reaction was "Wow! Marketing at its finest!" We all know by now that sunscreen is of the utmost importance in protecting our skin from harmful sun rays. Sun damage rears its ugly head in the form of dry rough skin, wrinkles and even skin cancer. None of which any of us want. But is one SPF any better than another? Let's explore sun protection.

What are we afraid of?

There are actually 3 forms of UV (ultraviolet) rays: UVC, UVB and UVA. UVC has the shortest wavelength of the 3 and is also the most dangerous. We don’t often hear about UVC because the ozone layer protects us from those rays. UVB appears next in the light spectrum with a longer wavelength. It is the culprit behind sunburn. Finally, UVA rays have the longest wavelength of all ultra violet light. The longer wavelength results in less damage in a given time period. In fact, the difference in rate of damage caused by UVB and UVA rays is astronomical. UVA rays are thought to cause more long term damage that may affect deeper layers of the skin. In short, we should focus on protecting our skin from both UVB and UVA rays.

I like to use metaphors to simplify science so let's try this explanation of UV rays. Consider a day at the beach. The day could be pleasant—warm, sun shining, very relaxing… there’s a gentle breeze so any noticeable waves are few and far between. Or the day could be slightly overcast with a stronger breeze… waves are coming with significantly more frequency, but it’s not exactly a tropical storm. Then you have stormy weather, not only is it cold and wet, but the waves are beating the shore more often than not. The frequency and tenacity of the waves at the beach represent the various UV rays. The best day at the beach correlates to UVA and the worst day to UVC. Get the picture? Good!

Sunscreen agents are classified as physical protectors (UV reflecting) or chemical protectors (UV absorbing). The physical protectors work to reflect both UVB and UVA rays. Chemical protectors generally absorb UVB rays although there is some overlap in function between the two. Some UV protectors are compromised by the sun; thus, they must be used in conjunction with other ingredients to stabilize them.

So what is SPF and how is it determined?

Sun Protection Factor (SPF) refers to the level of UVB protection a product offers. Note I said UVB protection. Currently there is no test for level of UVA protection in a product. While many companies have released high SPF products ranging from 45+ to 100, this is more of a marketing strategy than a real difference in protection. It would be easy to assume that SPF 30 was twice as effective as SPF 15 and so on, however, that is not the case. In reality, SPF 15 will block around 94% of UVB rays, SPF 30 blocks 97% and SPF 45 blocks 98%. The increase in sun protection becomes more and more negligible as the SPF increases. In essence, an SPF of 100 is not as amazing as it sounds.

In order for a product to make an SPF claim, it must undergo clinical testing. In this testing, 10-20 healthy, fair skinned individuals are exposed to UVB radiation from an artificial source similar in intensity to that of the noon sun. The test measures the time it takes each participant's skin to burn while wearing sunscreen in comparison to the time it takes the skin to burn without sunscreen. Of course, everyone's skin is different, thus the average of this ratio is taken to determine the SPF of a given product. Keeping in mind that testing is very controlled, there are a number of factors that will determine how well a given product will protect you. Those factors include the actual intensity of natural UVB rays, your unique skin type, the amount of sun care product you apply and how often you apply it.

To sum it all up:
Everyone needs sun protection.
Don't believe the hype, SPF 30 is Glam approved.
Use sunscreen liberally and apply it often, especially when you're outdoors.

Here's to the Glam Life!

Color, Color, Color! Part I

2010-05-04T11:12:00.006-04:00

"Nothing says Spring and Summer like color, color, color!"-- Me

When spring arrives, there's color everywhere-- green grass, pink and lavender flowers, blue skies. It's nothing short of inspiring, so out comes the colorful nail lacquer, lipstick, gloss and eyeshadow. Various ingredients both natural and synthetic go into making the beautiful colors you wear on your eyes, lips, cheeks and nails. I thought it would be fun to explore color with you from a nerd's perspective, so this is Part I of a series of all things color.... Welcome to my Glam Color Lab :-)

On the Natural Side

Natural colorants are popping up everywhere, but how do you know if your fave natural beauty product really is? Mineral makeup is mostly comprised of inorganic pigments. For this discussion, the terms organic and inorganic do not refer to the method of growth or extraction. Instead, the terms will be discussed in their chemical definitions. Simply put, organic chemicals contain Carbon, inorganic chemicals do not. Inorganic pigments are metallic compounds found in nature and refined for use in cosmetics.

Iron oxides are inorganic pigments that are very popular in makeup products. Iron oxide colors are typically shades of red, yellow and black. They can be blended to make an array of natural colors for blush and foundation. There are no restrictions for the use of iron oxides so they are safe for eye and lip products as well.

Chromium dioxides are another category of inorganic pigments used in makeup products. They are available in shades of green ranging from darker greens like olive or brighter blue greens, etc. Chromium dioxides are not approved for use in lip products.

Ultramarines cover a broad spectrum of color. There are ultramarine blues, greens, pinks and purples. While the ultramarine blue shades are not approved for lips, the others are all fair game for outrageous lip, eye, face and nail colors.

Manganese is a bright purple color and is also an inorganic pigment. It is most popular in lip and eye products, but that's probably obvious. When I was an undergrad chemistry student, I LOVED working with manganese because it was so pretty. I thoroughly enjoyed all my chem labs, but sometimes it's drab and mundane... manganese brightened my day a few times :-)

Iron blue is a very dark and intense blue inorganic pigment. If you haven't already noticed the trend, iron blue is not approved for use in lip products. However, it is widely used in other cosmetic products.

We've discussed the basic colors which can be mixed, matched and blended to create some amazing color cosmetics, but what about white? Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are commonly used to achieve the white color in color cosmetic products.

All of the above pigments can be found in nature. Commonly, they exist with other metals and must be separated and purified to cosmetic grade.

In future posts for this series, we will discuss micas, FD&C and D&C colorants, lakes, organic pigments, metallics and pearls, etc. You won't want to miss finding out what's really in your color cosmetics.

Got a question about color? Leave a comment!

Here's to the Glam Life!

Water: The Ultimate Moisturizer

2010-04-14T18:04:00.006-04:00

A few weeks ago, I saw a tweet that baffled me a bit. Someone (I don't remember who) was completely annoyed that the top ingredient in some product was water. My first thought was "Whoa, what's wrong with water?!" More recently, I read about a product line whose claim to fame is "water-free". From a formulator's perspective, water can be a nuisance when you are trying to avoid the use of preservatives. That is a big deal in times like these where the natural, eco and organic movement is in full effect. I'm still not clear why consumers would be up in arms about the presence of water in a formula, but I'm here to tell you why you should love it.

Water is THE ultimate moisturizer. Moisture cannot exist if water is not present, so the primary function of water in a moisturizing product is to be the source of moisture. In a perfect world, water would be all we need to maintain well moisturized skin and hair, but that's just not the way it is. Because water will always evaporate, there needs to be ingredients in a product that act as a barrier to prevent water loss. These barrier (occlusive) ingredients are waxes, vegetable oils and silicone oils. As a bonus, most barrier ingredients come with added benefits like vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, etc.

Another main function of water in a cosmetic formula is to be a solvent. Not only are raw materials concentrated, but they also need a medium to be dispersed. Water dissolves these raw materials and allows them to be used in safe concentrations. [While many raw materials can be used as is, they are equally effective in lesser concentrations.] I fear that some people think water as a top ingredient makes the product "watered down" or ineffective. That couldn't be further from the truth. Consider the amount of laundry detergent you use in relation to the amount of water the fills the washer. The ratio of detergent to water is clearly 1 to 99 yet, you have full confidence that the minute amount of detergent you used will clean your clothes. The same concept applies to water in cosmetics.

Finally, water plays a major role in the texture of a product. Moisturizers and hair conditioners, for instance, benefit from easier application, spreadability (hmmm is that a word?) etc when water is used effectively. Water as a main ingredient can also be indicative of a lighter formula.

Contrary to popular belief, all skin types and hair types need moisture. So the next time you see water as a top ingredient, be thankful that the formulator thought about your need for moisture. Pay closer attention to the types of oils the product uses to lock that moisture in... dry skin and hair will need heavier oils and oily skin will need much lighter oils.

Are you a consumer that's not big on water in cosmetics? How do you feel about it now?

The How and Why of Formaldehyde

2010-04-06T17:11:00.008-04:00

I had the pleasure of attending America's Beauty Show and FACE and BODY in Chicago a couple weekends ago. I had a blast! While I was there, I engaged in an interesting conversation with someone regarding formaldehyde. The conversation was spun from the fact there are now at least 10-15 different Brazilian/keratin hair straightening products and one main ingredient is formaldehyde. So the question was: Why is formaldehyde in cosmetics and why would anyone put it there?

Brazilian Keratin Treatments

I can guarantee you that your hair will not be blown straight just from keratin. We've discussed keratin a bit before, but let's revisit briefly. Keratin is a major protein in skin, hair, nails and teeth. Keratin in the skin is flexible and soft, yet it is hard in hair, nails and teeth. Although the keratin in the straightening treatment does not do the straightening, it does improve the strength and appearance of the hair. I'm reluctant to also say it improves the overall health of the hair because technically hair outside of the follicle is "dead"... but you get my drift. Formaldehyde (in keratin treatments that contain it), is the ingredient that causes the hair to relax. There are keratin treatments that do not use formaldehyde as the straightening agent, however keratin is certainly not the ingredient doing the grunt work. Let's face it, a keratin treatment is a lot more marketable than a formaldehyde treatment :-/

Formaldehyde in other cosmetics

In most other cosmetic applications, formaldehyde is not added directly to the formula. Instead, it is a by-product, so to speak, that increases the effectiveness of certain preservatives. These preservatives work because they release small amounts of formaldehyde over time. [Think: formaldehyde = embalming fluid = preservative] This slow release of formaldehyde means that a product has an ongoing stream of protection from harmful microbes and bacteria. One cosmetic that uses formaldehyde directly is/was nail polish. Formaldehyde is used in nail hardening polishes, not really in the polishes that are more for show than functionality. When you see nail polishes that claim formaldehyde and formaldehyde resin FREE it's largely due to marketability as opposed to an actual difference in the product formula.

Dangers of Formaldehyde

Formaldehyde is certainly a dangerous chemical, but not so much in cosmetics. The FDA has approved the use of formaldehyde in cosmetic applications for hair and skin at no more than 0.2 percent of a formula. Products that contain formaldehyde releasing preservatives have no problem meeting this restriction. Formaldehyde in nail polish products can lawfully be present at 5% of the formula. Studies show most nail hardeners that contain formaldehyde come in well below 5%. Unfortunately, there have been some keratin treatments that have been found to contain 10 times the legal amount of formaldehyde.

When inhaled, formaldehyde can cause respiratory irritation like a burning sensation in the nose and throat. It can also cause sensitivity in the eyes. When I was in undergrad, I worked with formaldehyde (formalin) in large quantities daily. I can say from experience that acute formaldehyde exposure is no joke! Long term inhalation of formaldehyde has been linked to some forms of nasal and lung cancer... and therein lies the problem.

While formaldehyde is not inhaled when from products that use formaldehyde releasing preservatives, it can be inhaled from nail applications and the controversial keratin treatments. From the perspective of both a scientist and a consumer, nail hardeners do not cause me any worry... but the unregulated amounts of formaldehyde in keratin treatments paired with high temps used to make the treatment work cause me great concern.

and with that... Be Glam responsibly!

Talk to Me!

2010-03-23T14:15:00.004-04:00

I realized today that I don't know much about my readers, and my readers may not know much about me. Even on Twitter it surprises me how many people have no idea what I do. I clearly need to toot my own horn a bit more. Nevertheless, this post is dedicated to giving you a closer look at my life... as it relates to beauty... and you doing the same.

So a little about me... You already know I'm a cosmetic chemist. I do contract work and consulting for small businesses, spas/salons and independent beauty professionals who want to market a line of beauty products. Manicurists and Makeup Artists have been my best clients so far. I also do private labeling and wholesaling. The product offerings for those services is growing gradually.

I am vain in the sense that I take pride in the way I look. I'm not the "I know I'm prettier than you" type. I just like to look pretty and I easily recognize and appreciate beauty in other women too. I am the QUEEN of complimenting a stranger :-) I'm obsessive about taking care of my hair and my skin. I spare no expense for hair care and skin care... especially when a product no longer works for me. I don't think I'm a true product junkie, but that's probably only because I can read an ingredients list and instantly know if a product will live up to it's claims. My fave beauty products to buy are lip gloss and nail polish. I keep approximately 5 lip glosses in my purse not including the lip balm and carmex that I tote around. I buy nail polish compulsively, yet I rarely have my nails polished because of the work that I do. I also enjoy perfume... I wear it more for the status. It makes me feel all glamorous and grown up. I create perfume because I enjoy the process and because I can be inspired by so many different things that lead to creating a beautiful perfume.

So that's enough about me. I want to know about you! Tell me, what's your favorite nail polish brand? What nail color is an absolute classic in your eyes? What's the best top coat and base coat? What beauty product or types of products excite you? How often do you wear perfume? What's your signature fragrance? Are you obsessed with lip gloss like me? How long do you wish your lip gloss would last? Do you wear bronzer, foundation or tinted moisturizer? What's your fave makeup brand? Are you into color or are you a neutral gal? When you pamper yourself, what does that include?

I want to hear it all, ladies! So, please leave a comment telling me all about your Glam Life :-)

The "Formula" in my Hair

2010-03-08T00:17:00.007-05:00

I'm going to tell you ladies a secret... are you ready? Here it goes: One night while I was asleep, my son decided to rest his bottle in my hair. I woke up with a mane full of formula! I know what you're thinking... "That is so gross!" "I hope you washed your hair immediately" The answers-- "Not really all that gross." "I washed my hair, eventually."

Allow me to explain. My son suffers from multiple food allergies-- milk and soy included. So instead of drinking the typical milk based formula, cow's milk or soy milk, he drinks a hypoallergenic formula made solely of amino acids. It comes in powder form and I mix it with water. In essence, I had a fantastic conditioning treatment in my hair! Plus it's tropical flavor, so it smells good too. If you'll recall from your high school science classes, amino acids are the building blocks of proteins... and hair is made of a fibrous protein better known as keratin. Put simply, amino acids are hair food.

Amino acids combine to form proteins that will strengthen the hair and possibly help promote hair growth. Keep in mind, everyone's hair growth cycle is different. You can't grow waist length hair if that's not in your DNA. See previous post Long, Luxurious Hair: The Science. Fortunately, you don't have to have a formula incident to reap the benefits of amino acids and/or proteins. The claim to fame for those mayonnaise and egg kitchen conditioning treatments is the fact that they are rich in proteins, thus also rich in amino acids.

These days, cosmeceuticals are growing in popularity. They are no more than a collection of vitamins, minerals, etc that can be taken in pill form or have been packed into special beauty drinks. I'm all for cosmeceuticals-- anything to keep it pretty. Just remember that you can add the same vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, etc to your diet just by incorporating the right foods. Amino acids are included in the list of beauty must haves that you can get find in your foods. Out of 22 amino acids, our bodies can produce 13. The remaining 9 need to be supplemented and are referred to as essential amino acids. Foods such as milk and meat contain all 9 essential amino acids. Remember the tagline for milk? "--it does a body good." Add to that "--it gives you strong, healthy, pretty hair." What woman doesn't want great hair?! Other foods that contain essential amino acids are nuts, beans, soy, peas, rice, wheat and other grains. Alone these sources don't contain all the essential amino acids, but combined you will get all that you need.

The next time you're in the beauty supply, you can be confident in picking up products with amino acids listed in the ingredients. Until then, make sure your diet is giving you all the beauty food you need.

Here's to the Glam Life!

Science and Controversy

2010-03-02T18:10:00.006-05:00

With all the controversy and bad press looming in the cosmetic industry, I thought it was important to speak as both a consumer and a cosmetic chemist. I have had the privilege of following several forum style discussions regarding the safety of cosmetics and personal care products. In these discussions, both scientists and non-scientists provide their "two cents". Normally, a sensationalist begins the discussion with wild claims like "Women put 515 chemicals on their bodies everyday!" or "There's lead in your lipstick and you're eating 7 lbs of it a year!". Think I'm being facetious? I couldn't be more serious. Of course, this is when all the scientists join in with our facts and research, etc because we hate to see the industry being bashed and shown in a negative light.

The Scientist's Brain

Scientists realize that consumers are often skeptical and that they are being fed a lot of misinformation. What the general public doesn't realize is that scientists are by far the most skeptical beings... ever. Our minds are wired to question everything and believe nothing until we have seen the research or performed the research ourselves... it's the scientific method. Once we have the facts, we will fight and argue tirelessly to inform those who don't believe. In the case of the cosmetic industry, some of these arguments and fights occur publicly. It may appear that the scientists are picking on "the little guy", as we often must take our stand against individuals like sales reps from MLM companies or "all natural" companies. The problem is, these individuals rarely know the science behind the ingredients that we use-- both natural and synthetic.

My Note to the Consumer

Be careful what you believe. It's perfectly ok to be skeptical, but be fair with your skepticism. I urge you to not only question claims made by the cosmetic industry, but the claims made by radicals and special interest groups as well. Keep in mind, the research and development department of any major cosmetic company is run by various scientists ie chemists, biologists, chemical engineers, etc. With the "natural" cosmetic companies, not so much. Don't get me wrong, this post is not to bash indie beauty companies in any way. On the contrary, it is meant to bring about awareness and to say "Shame on you." to those companies whose marketing strategy is to shed a negative light on larger, more established companies.

As with any industry, there are some snakes in the grass. There are plenty of cosmetics on the market that make claims they can't live up to. Those products belong to both big brand manufacturers and small cosmetic companies alike. Learn to read your ingredients lists and familiarize yourself with which ingredients are natural and which are synthetic. If you want to know if a product is likely to work, feel free to ask me. Keep in mind, product claims are largely made by marketing departments, not R&D.

Final Points

1. Research shows there is no harm in parabens.
2. Water based products NEED preservatives. If you see water and no preservative, be afraid... be very afraid!
3. Preservatives are your friend... they keep your products safe from nasty little bacterial creatures.
4. Lead is not purposely included in your lipstick as a secret ingredient. Lead is a naturally occurring metal and can inadvertently be introduced to not only your cosmetics, but your food and drink as well. Albeit in TRACE amounts, as it is only found in nature in trace amounts.
5. Cosmetic Scientists use the SAME cosmetics that we market to the general public. We put them on our skin and our children's skin. Sorry to break it to you, but there is no secret society for cosmetic scientists that makes all the "good" products that we keep to ourselves.
6. The nature of any scientist is to research, test, research, test, research some more, test and then share our findings. This is no different for the cosmetic industry.

Knowledge is Hotness, here's to the Glam Life!

This Means War: Antioxidants vs Free Radicals

2010-02-24T12:37:00.004-05:00

I'm sure everyone has heard the terms "free radical" and "antioxidant" before. You generally know, one is bad and the other is good, but do you really know what they are and why they are? Marketing of cosmetics depends on the consumer being a little naive and the marketer sensationalizing the truth. Armed with the facts and a sense of understanding, you can start to chop through some of the claims out there and get to the meat of what the product(s) are all about.

So what is a free radical?

The body, like all matter, is made up of countless molecules. Sometimes oxygen comes along and reacts with molecules that it should not react with, leaving the molecule "undone" and looking for a partner. I like to think of free radicals as renegade puzzle pieces. I know that sounds crazy, but follow me on this one. So these renegade puzzle pieces are on the hunt for a piece that fits, whether it belongs to that puzzle or not. Imagine how crazy the finished puzzle will look if it has pieces that don't even belong. That sort of chaos is the effect that free radicals have on our bodies. In essence, free radicals attack good cells rendering them damaged or destroyed. This process is disastrous to our skin, causing us to age beyond our years, though we're all on a quest to look younger than our years. #conundrum

So how do we fight free radicals?

With antioxidants, of course! Antioxidants (in this sense) do exactly what the name implies, combat oxygen. *side note-- My fellow chemists know this is not the whole truth, but it explains antioxidants' role in this topic.* The antioxidant's job is to keep oxygen from reacting with molecules that it shouldn't, thus preventing the creation of free radicals. Hopefully, this explanation gives you a little more insight as to why cosmetic companies love to claim antioxidants. In a nutshell, they are key ingredients for any anti-aging product.

What should you look for?

The next time you're on the hunt for a great product that will improve the health of your skin and is also anti-aging, look for the antioxidants. The most common antioxidants in a cosmetic product are: tocopherol (Vitamin E), ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), beta-carotene or retinol (think Vitamin A), and green and white teas. Remember, antioxidants are a great addition to your product regimen, but they also work wonders when you add them to your diet. Eat plenty of berries, broccoli, tomatoes, grapes, carrots, etc for your fill of antioxidant goodness.

Here's to the Glam Life!

Taking a Lesson From Generic

2010-02-16T16:38:00.002-05:00

This past Saturday, I sent the kids to hang out with their dad so I could have a little quiet time. While they were gone, I did a little work and indulged in a nice long shower complete with a wash and style :-) Doing my hair is what inspired this post. Generic Value Products is a hair care brand that has capitalized on their right to "reformulate" name brand products that are already a success.

A few years ago, my best friend (who is also my cosmetologist) started using Paul Mitchell's Super Skinny Serum when drying my hair. The product claims to smoothe, soften, condition, seal and reduce drying time. Let me be the first to tell you that it does all of the above. I have thick, long hair that usually takes a half hour to 45 minutes to dry, so this product is a god-send to me. The trouble is, Paul Mitchell products are not cheap by any stretch of the imagination. For someone like me that washes their hair once a week, I need more bang for my buck. Enter Generic with their Smoothing Serum labeled "Compare to: Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Serum" Ding, ding, ding!!!! We've got a winner here!

Allow me to explain a bit. Most personal care products are not protected from being reformulated. Of course some carry patents, but cosmetic chemists have plenty of legal tricks to get around a patent and deliver a comparable product. A lot of people are hung up on brands, especially when it comes to beauty products. A quick comparison of ingredients lists will show you that most store brands are exactly the same as the name brands. In some instances, the name brand products are private labeled to smaller companies and chain stores.

My point is:
1. Don't be afraid to try the store brands. They are often of equal quality and will save you some money.
2. There is a fortune to be made by small businesses in reformulating already successful products. Pick a niche, develop a unique branding strategy and call a chemist (that's me!) to work on the project.

Pretty and Rich?! That's the Glam Life!

Tough Skin

2010-02-04T13:04:00.005-05:00

I spent a few days in New Jersey last week for Fabulous Smells and Cocktails (Review and Pics coming soon) and my friend's launch party. While I was there, I decided to treat myself to a manicure because my hands were in bad shape. Honestly, I was slightly embarrassed at the condition of my paws at my own event, but what can you do? At any rate, while I was in the local nail salon, I watched someone get a pedicure. Yes, I watched! I couldn't help myself. I was appalled because the technician was using a Credo blade on her client's feet. I sat there watching thick layers of skin fall from this poor lady's feet and I cringed every time. If you recall, I did a post on pedicures this past summer in which I was clear on my position. Those things are the devil!

If you have tough/rough skin, it's there for a reason. It's your body's natural defense- it's way of protecting you from harm. That's not to say you have to live with crusty feet. Just be careful how you treat the problem. Credo blades remove far too many layers of skin. You may leave the nail salon with feet smooth as a baby's bottom, but when the skin begins to heal duh-duh-duh-dummmmmm! That skin will grow back thicker and tougher because your body needs to repair the damage and try to keep it from happening again.

Now, my experience at that little nail salon in South Amboy, NJ inspired me to write this post, which is not really about Credo blades. I wanted to explain some of the other options out there for treating those unfortunate calluses. Callus treatments are becoming more and more popular. Most contain a collection of moisturizers, humectants and anti-microbial ingredients. Plus a host of vitamins. The most common ingredient in Callus Removers is dihydroxy propylene which acts as a surfactant, humectant and anti-microbial. Callus Remover treatments are concentrated formulas that quickly soften the skin and allow for easy removal with a pumice stone/pad or foot rasp. With proper upkeep, one Callus treatment should be enough to last the whole summer.

Interesting fact: Callus Removers and Cuticle Removers are usually the same product in different packaging. Read the labels, you'll see ;-)

Callus remover treatments are not your only option. A simple soak once a week and frequent moisturization should keep your skin in decent condition. I also recommend keeping some sort of foot file in the shower. You can upgrade your soak with loose tea (green or white), oatmeal, a drop of tea tree oil, and a few drops of a jojoba oil.

Here's to the Glam Life!

Fabulous Smells and Cocktails

2010-01-21T11:46:00.004-05:00

If you're following me on Twitter (@Glam_Scientist or @envielabs)then I'm sure you've notice how extremely excited I am about Fabulous Smells and Cocktails. Susan Vernicek of Identity Magazine and I have been working nonstop to make sure this event is everything it is promised to be. This is the first of many events that we plan to host across the country. This time around, we're catering to the Glam Women of New York, New Jersey and Philadelphia. The event will be held on January 28, 2010 at 141 South Restaurant and Bar in Union, NJ.

Each of our guests will have the privilege of creating their own custom fragrance with me. I will be right there to give every woman one on one attention to make sure the fragrance she gets is something she will really enjoy. The fragrances we will create will be made from pure essential oils in a base of jojoba oil. Whatever your taste in fragrance, whether its floral, spicy, citrus, oriental or a combination, we will create something you can enjoy that is ALL YOURS! *Insert spookie, mad scientist laugh here*.

In addition to creating your own fragrance, you will have the opportunity to participate in the decision making for the new fragrance in the works for Identity Magazine. Susan wanted a fragrance that would fit the personality of her magazine and celebrate the individuality of her readers. We thought the best way to get the perfect fragrance would be to include you in the process. If you've ever wondered how celebrities "design" a fragrance, this is how! The perfumer presents them with several fragrance samples and the celebrity critiques and evaluates the fragrance until it is something they can agree to. In this case, you are the celebrity. You will sample and comment on 6 or more fragrance options to help Susan and I come to a final decision. How exciting!

Finally, our guests will not only leave with their own personalized fragrance, but with a goodie bag FULL of interesting and unique gifts. We've got premium teas, lip gloss, mini bottles of specialty vodka, free yoga passes, boutique gift cards and so much more. AND.... one of our guests will receive a gift bag valued at over $200 from our raffle.

Susan and I hope that you will come to our event and enjoy all that we have to give. Currently, tickets are only $15, but the price will go up as we get closer to the event. Included in your ticket price are your custom fragrance, drink specials, finger foods and raffle tickets. The bar and kitchen will be open for you to purchase items from the 141 South Restaurant and Bar menu.

Purchase your tickets here: Fabulous Smells and Cocktails

See you soon!

The Sticky

2010-01-15T14:43:00.005-05:00

This post was inspired by my good friend and fellow cosmetic chemist, Kimberly Riley (@KiMiStRyCOS), who recently posted this tweet:

@KiMiStRyCOS: Wondering why your lip gloss is sticky? It's probably comprised of mostly synthetic ingredients #makeupmonday

I couldn't resist the urge to take this statement a bit further by telling you exactly which ingredient(s) are responsible for the sticky texture. Some women like sticky lip gloss because it is long lasting. Makeup artists use the sticky stuff to add an artistic touch to the lips with rhinestones, glitter, sprinkles etc. There are other women, like myself, that don't like the "tacky" feeling, but rather prefer a smooth, moisturizing texture.

The ingredients typically responsible for the sticky texture of lip gloss are polybutene and polyisobutene. Polybutene is a synthetic polymer that acts as a binder, epilating agent (hair removal) and a viscosity increasing agent. It is a sticky, non-drying liquid that is also used in adhesives. The Cosmetic Ingredients Review has deemed this ingredient safe as it is currently used. You may also find this ingredient in lipstick, eye makeup and other skin care products.

Polyisobutene is a close cousin to polybutene. It is also a binder and viscosity increasing agent used in cosmetics. Unlike polybutene, polyisobutene dries to leave a thin coating on the surface of the lips. Low molecular weight polyisobutenes are thick, soft and tacky liquids. Polybutene is typically used in water based formulations, while polyisobutene is used in oil based formulations.

One of my biggest pet peeves about lip gloss and lipstick alike is that some formulas tend to cause my lips to peel. I believe polyisobutene is the culprit responsible for this gross occurrence. Of course, I will take a closer look at this to confirm or deny the accusation in the near future.

So that's "the sticky". Use it to live life glamorously :-)

Makeup Mondays Exposed

2010-01-06T13:40:00.003-05:00

As you may already know, I'm an avid tweeter (can I say that?! lol). I primarily follow people who share my interest in beauty, makeup, skin care and fashion. So you can imagine my twitter feed is on fire on #makeupmonday. Periodically, I will do a post explaining the science behind one or more of the tips from #makeupmonday.

This post was inspired by a new twitter friend of mine, @AnonamusPoetry who suggested the use of Monistat Soothing Care Chafing Relief Powder-Gel as a foundation primer. So I already know what you're thinking... "Isn't Monistat for yeast infections?" Yes and no. Monistat makes yeast infection treatments, but the chafing relief gel is not such a product. The key to a great makeup primer is silicone oil. The Monistat Soothing Care Chafing Relief Powder-Gel contains plenty of silicone oils! The results of the Monistat product as a foundation primer have been compared to that of Smashbox Photo Finish Primer. Let's compare the ingredients:

Monistat Soothing Care Chafing Relief Powder-Gel

Cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone, crosspolymer, silica, tocopheryl acetate and trisiloxane.

Smashbox Photo Finish Primer

Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Butylparaben, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Glycol, Water, Grape Seed Extract, Kolanut Seed Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Do you see the similarities? Both are heavy on the silicones ie cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, cyclomethicone. Remember, when reading ingredients lists the ingredients are listed in descending order with the most abundant ingredient first. Silicone oils are most often found in conditioning products. They have a slick, velvety texture which makes them a fantastic ingredient for makeup primers.

In comparing the two products, the Smashbox Photo Finish Primer does have a much more impressive ingredients list due to ethylhexyl salicylate (sun protection) and the various extracts which are high in antioxidants. However, if you are already using a great moisturizer (which you should be, shame on you if you're not) then the Monistat product will serve it's purpose well plus, it's a much cheaper alternative. For those of you that are wary of using an intimate care product on your face, remember this-- your lady parts are much more delicate and sensitive than the skin on your face.

Here's to the Glam Life!!!

Lip Service

2009-12-08T23:09:00.003-05:00

So, lip gloss makes me happy and I'm not ashamed :-)I have about 5 glosses in my purse at the moment and I still feel like that's not enough. Don't worry, I'll be adding to my arsenal soon with a couple brands I'm working on and one that my good friend Kim Riley has developed. I digress...

The real purpose of this post is to discuss the properties of the lips and why all lip products are not created equal. Like the rest of our body, our lips are covered with 3 layers of skin: stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis. The stratum corneum is the outer most layer of skin that protects the epidermis. The stratum corneum on the lips is much thinner than that on the rest of our bodies. Thus, the stratum corneum of our lips is much more delicate and requires more specialized care. Another significant difference in the skin on our lips and our bodies is that our lips do not have sebaceous glands. Since our lips don't excrete any necessary oils or moisture, lip care products are a must. Also, the amount of melanin in our lips is considerably less than that of the rest of our skin. Sun damage is real and devastating to our beauty, our lips need and deserve a good sunscreen.

One major problem I have had with several lip products on the market is that they cause my lips to peel. I think that is extremely gross and unsightly. The reason behind this peeling phenomenon is actually pretty simple and easy to avoid. Some lip care products are heavy in occlusive ingredients. Occlusive products, also known as barriers,are characterized as products meant to lock in moisture. Knowing that our lips don't produce moisture, what is an occlusive product actually doing? Trapping dryness and making your lips even more dry!

So what ingredients should you avoid? Primarily mineral oil and petrolatum. Other natural occlusive agents may be used in lip balm products which is what gives them their stiff/dense consistency. Ingredients like beeswax, candelilla wax and carnauba wax are not too bad when other skin softening, emollient ingredients are used. Some good ingredients to look for are jojoba oil, almond oil, coconut oil and olive oil. These oils will easily absorb in your skin and provide some much needed nutrients and moisture.

So back to my love of lip gloss... because of the typical consistency of lip gloss, it can easily avoid overusing occlusive agents and can maximize all kinds of amazing oils and extracts.

So now that I've given you the skinny... do the glam thing and give yourself a little lip service :-)

Update: Parabens

2009-11-20T15:13:00.005-05:00

This past February, I did a post discussing parabens-- what they are, what the rumors are and whether or not the rumors were true. You can find that post here: Parabens

New research has been released that shows parabens don't cause any hormonal activity in the body. Florian Schellauf of Colipa (The European Cosmetics Association) recently presented research regarding propyl- and butylparabens that were introduced both orally and topically in laboratory rats. The study showed that the parabens are significantly absorbed orally, but only partially through the skin. Although there is some absorption through the skin, the research shows that the parabens are fully metabolized BEFORE they reach the blood stream. As proof of this finding, blood plasma tests were conducted that showed only the presence of the paraben metabolite p-hydroxybenzoic acid (pHBA) not the parabens themselves. These findings held true whether the parabens were introduced orally, dermally or subcutaneously (by injection just beneath the skin's surface). Thus far, pHBA is not known to have any estrogenic effects and can be found in our food and plant life naturally. That means, you are already ingesting the paraben metabolite more than likely on a daily basis. IF pHBA is causing trouble via your cosmetics, then it would be causing problems via the food you eat too. Think about it...

So the final word on this research study as put forth by Colipa is:

“The study confirms the results of a number of research studies, which concluded from their work that parabens are metabolised rapidly and to a large extent in living organisms and therefore cannot exhibit any adverse effects,” --Colipa.

Based on the science, I still see no harm in the use of parabens-- especially in the extremely low concentrations that are used in cosmetic preparations. We shall continue to see how the story unfolds. For now, if you are a consumer that has chosen to steer clear of parabens, there's no harm in caution. Just know, the science is on their side.

For more information on this study, view the original article here: New data on parabens

Mineral Oil

2009-11-14T10:36:00.004-05:00

Mineral oil is a standard ingredient in many skin care applications including lotions, baby care products and cold creams. The verdict is still out on whether or not mineral oil is a natural ingredient. Mineral oil is the by-product of petroleum distillation for the process of making gasoline. Vaseline is also a by-product of this process. In skin care, mineral oil is said to work as a thin coating on the skin to help trap moisture. It does NOT draw moisture to the skin from the atmosphere. Mineral oil is not easily absorbed by the skin and thus is possibly comedogenic meaning it can clog the pores. Clogged pores slow the skin's ability to eliminate toxins which is never a good thing.

Aside from the cosmetic problems mineral oil can cause, there are some more serious implications. Once mineral oil is absorbed by the skin, it is metabolized and travels through the intestinal tract. Mineral oil will absorb fat soluble vitamins from the body and carries them out with it in bodily waste. Essentially, mineral oil has the potential to steal vital nutrients from our bodies. There have actually been some cases of [lipoid] pneumonia that were found to be caused by mineral oil.

Unscented vs Fragrance Free

2009-11-09T12:40:00.003-05:00

With so many allergies, sensitive skin problems and the growing desire to "go green", consumers are opting for products that don't contain any added fragrance-- or so they think. Unfortunately, there is quite a bit of ambiguity on the part of the FDA regarding appropriate wording for products that contain no added fragrance.

My twitter friend, Krissy90220, noticed that one of her personal care products was labeled "unscented" but had "fragrance" listed in the ingredients. Krissy, like most consumers felt that the label was misleading and illegal even... but, according to the FDA, this is quite alright.

There is no documented FDA definition for "unscented" or "fragrance free" which means the terms can be used freely on product labels. The FDA does, however, require that if fragrance is used in a product it be listed in the ingredients. Generally speaking, unscented is used when a product contains fragrance only to mask the chemical smell of other ingredients in the formula. Fragrance free is most often used when no fragrance exists in the formula at all. It's not likely that leading brands will have truly fragrance free products due to the number of synthetic ingredients that are typically used. Small handmade product lines that are labeled unscented or fragrance free are more likely to be authentic. If you find a product that is labeled unscented or fragrance free, does not list fragrance in the list, but still smells scented, it is probably misbranded. Misbranding is subject to penalty by the FDA and should be reported due to the possible implications.

If you have sensitivities to fragrant chemicals and seek a product that undoubtedly contains no fragrance, the front label will not give you all the assurances you need. Always read the ingredients list on the back label of a product to be sure that what you perceive is what you will receive.

Until next time... Here's to the glam life!

Hope for the Dry Skin Woes

2009-11-05T23:16:00.006-05:00

I rarely toot my own horn on my blog. I like to take a different approach to advertising. But, the last blog I posted happens to be the perfect set up for me to rave about Envie (on-vee-ay).

Two key points I touched on in the "Dry, Itchy, Flaky Skin" post were:

1. Dry skin needs to be slathered in a very thick moisturizer while the skin is still moist to improve the performance of the moisturizer and to help the skin retain as much moisture as possible.

2. Dry skin is better served if it is massaged rather than scrubbed. Abrasive bath accessories and scrubbing action damage the very fragile, dry skin.

And now for the pitch:

The Envie Bath and Body Conditioning Body Butter Creme is a super thick moisturizer packed with vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids. It certainly passes the thick moisturizer test-- Put some in the palm of your hand then turn it upside down... this thick creme won't budge! Heavy duty moisturizing ingredients include shea butter, avocado oil, marajuca oil and pumpkin seed oil. It is highly emollient, yet non-greasy which means you can apply it right before you get dressed in the morning, or before you go to bed at night. The Envie Conditioning Body Butter Creme gets my seal of approval, but of course I'm biased. ;-) Visit our website to purchase a jar for yourself and a friend. http://envielabs.com

Massaging the skin helps to improve circulation and cell regeneration. Ultimately, it is a very gentle way to exfoliate and you already know how much I heart exfoliation. Envie will be selling handmade chenille bath mitts to add another touch of luxury to your bathing experience. The chenille fabric is soft, plush and luxurious and is perfect to buff your skin to perfection. These bath mitts will be available in limited quantities, so be on the lookout-- you don't want to miss this treat!

Thanks to the dry skin post, I have a few grand ideas for new products. I LOVE what I do! Here's to the glam life!

Dry, Itchy, Flaky Skin

2009-11-01T12:30:00.004-05:00

So... I realized today that I hadn't posted a blog in almost two months. That is totally unacceptable! I'm back with a vengeance. I thought it was an appropriate time to tackle the problem of dry skin. During the fall and winter months more people begin to experience the discomforts of dry skin. I'd like to discuss a few of the causes of dry skin and also some treatments. Let me warn you, some are unconventional and they go against a lot of what I've been doing to treat me own dry skin all these years, but they are all certainly worth a shot. After all, dry skin really sucks!

Unfortunately, some of us have a genetic predisposition for dry skin also known as xerosis. Others of us have dry skin as the result of external factors. Ideally, our skin is coated with a thin layer of natural lipids and fatty substances which are meant to help us retain moisture. Dry skin occurs when the sebaceous glands don't produce enough oil to protect our skin or when the oils are stripped from our skin by external factors. Those external factors could be dry air, harsh winds, abrasive bathing accessories like bath poofs and loofa sponges, harsh soaps and hot water. Regardless of the cause, the treatment options are generally the same. The following are tips to help soothe and eliminate your dry skin.

1. Avoid hot water and long showers or baths. Hot water strips the natural oils from the skin. It is better to shower in lukewarm water and keep it short. Shower for just 3 minutes to prevent loss of moisture. If you can't keep it short, make it long. After about 15 minutes your skin starts to retain moisture from the shower. You can tell your skin is absorbing the water by the appearance of your fingertips. If they are wrinkly, the water has made its way in.

2. Many of us really give ourselves a good scrub in the shower. I know I'm guilty of keeping a trusty bath poof hanging in the shower. I think they are great for exfoliation, but they may be causing more harm than good. Dry skin is much more sensitive than normal skin. A good comparison would be the difference between leaves in the spring and leaves in the fall. Spring leaves are smooth, pliable, flexible, not easily broken. Fall leaves, however, are brittle, dry, fragile and crumble easily. Dry skin is like fall leaves. So instead of scrubbing your dry skin, use a plush washcloth or another soft, luxurious bath accessory to massage your body. The soap does the cleaning, the massage will stimulate blood flow and oil production.

3. Avoid harsh soaps. We LOVE to see a good lather from our soap, body wash, or shower gel. Unfortunately, all those bubbles rinse away and take those precious natural oils with them. So, don't overdo it with the soap products. Whether you see a good lather or not, the soap will do its job. Unsavory, but true: Soap is really only a daily necessity for the "hot spots". The arms, legs and abdomen can really be well served by a good rinse daily--lather maybe once or twice a week. Have I done this? Yes and no. My son suffers from severe eczema. I use soap on him once a week. Every other day, he gets a quick soak in the tub. I think his skin thanks me for that. :-)

4. Immediately following the shower PAT dry. DO NOT RUB YOUR SKIN DRY. You want to leave your skin hydrated to improve the performance of the moisturizer you choose. For dry skin, the thicker the moisturizer the better. You want to use a heavy, highly emollient moisturizer to replenish the skin and have long term effects. Bonus tip: Use a "barrier" to lock in moisture. Good barriers are oil based products that may also be considered ointments. A popular and effective barrier product is Aquafor. A less common, yet more effective barrier product is Crisco Vegetable Shortening. Yes, I am recommending cooking oil for your skin! That's just another trick I picked up caring for my son's skin. It does an excellent job of keeping the skin moisturized, soft and supple.

5. In the cold winter months, a little extra coverage could go a long way in protecting your skin from the elements. Of course you want to wear coats, hats, scarves, gloves etc. But, your legs could benefit from a little extra coverage too. Opt for those unsightly tall tube socks that men wear. They will keep your legs protected from the cold air which can creep up your pants legs. I personally love the tall socks. True, they're ugly, but they are warm and they keep your legs from sweating in your knee boots. ;-)

6. Changes in your diet could also have a positive impact on the condition of your skin. Drink plenty of water. Half your body weight in ounces is the recommended daily amount. So if you're 100 lbs, you need to drink atleast 50 oz of water a day. Avoid alcohol and caffeine which cause the body to eliminate water. Eat foods that are rich in vitamins and essential fatty acids. That means plenty of colorful fruits and vegetables and fatty fish like salmon. Flax seed oil is also a great source of essential fatty acids.

Dry, flaky skin is not glamorous by any stretch of the imagination. Take care of your skin, it will thank you for it.

Scent Inspiration: Alexander McQueen

2009-09-07T00:20:00.003-04:00

I have a thing for fashion... I love clothes, shoes, handbags and accessories. I do an awful lot of window shopping on the web planning my next purchase or daydreaming about the day when I can afford the item I want. This time the most coveted item was a pair of Alexander McQueen booties-- Faithful Booties to be exact. Oh, how these shoes made my heart skip a beat! Finely crafted black leather, peep toe, zippers, buttons, skulls... in a word HOT!!!! So daydreaming of the day I could purchase a pair of $1155 shoes without guilt evolved into a scent inspiration. After all, cosmetics and fragrance development is my black card.

The Alexander McQueen Faithful Booties inspire a scent that is representative of every good girl's inner bad girl. We all have one, whether we let her out or not. She's the rebel, the girl that doesn't want to play by the rules, wants to be sexy not just beautiful, would love to hang out all night and call off work in the morning. This scent is for her! I envision an intoxicating scent reminiscent of the smell of a new leather jacket and fresh tobacco. Crisp notes of cognac, lime and grapefruit add character to the scent. Of course there's more to the fragrance, but I can't give away ALL my secrets, right?!

More scent inspirations coming soon. :-)

**Picture taken from http://alexandermcqueen.com

All Things Accutane

2009-09-06T12:09:00.006-04:00

At the request of my dear twitter friend Justmiaiam, this post will cover the good, the bad and the ugly of accutane. Unfortunately its mostly bad and ugly... let's dive in. Please note, I couldn't possibly cover all the side effects of this drug, seriously its just that bad.

Accutane is one of 4 brand names for the acne drug generically known as isotretinoin. The remaining 3 brand names are Amnesteem, Claravis and Sotret. So what is it exactly? Accutane is a form of Vitamin A that works by minimizing the amount of natural oil produced by the skin. It is usually prescribed for severe nodular acne after other treatments have proven uneffective. However, a 2 year congressional study found that doctors have prescribed the drug to teens and women with only mild acne symptoms. Accutane is much too powerful for that.

The "bad" side effects:

Some users of Accutane have attributed hair loss (sometimes permanent)to the drug. Because this drug works by altering the oil production and cell regeneration it causes the hair and skin to become extremely dry and fragile which leads to thinning and loss. The hair loss can be anywhere including the eyebrows, eyelashes and scalp. Other users claim that the drug has caused severe back and joint pain that has persisted even after use of the drug has been discontinued. Other "bad" side effects include poor vision, sensitivity to light, dry mucous membranes (nose, lungs, bladder, anus) and depression which could of course lead to more serious problems like psychosis and suicidal thoughts.

Now for the "ugly":

Accutane has been known to cause severe birth defects and miscarriage. This is more than just a notion. In fact, the warning is so strong that the FDA requires patients to be enrolled in iPledge a program that ensures individuals taking the drug are not pregnant and will not become pregnant while on the drug. The iPledge programs requires that patients must be on (2) forms of birth control and must receive regular pregnancy tests before, during and after treatment as any amount of Accutane (no matter how miniscule) can cause severe birth defects. Common birth defects are of baby's ears, eyes, face, skull, brain and heart. So why does Accutane effect the reproductive system so severely? The drug contains parabens which demonstrate estrogenic activity, imbalances of human sexual hormones wreak havoc on the reproductive system. Other "ugly" side effects include stroke, seizures, low white blood count (susceptibility to fungal and bacterial infections)and liver damage... just to name a few.

The moral of the story is... while Accutane may prove effective in treating and clearing acne symptoms long term, the side effects are common and far too severe to risk.

Acne: Treating the Culprit

2009-08-15T15:51:00.006-04:00

Now that we've discussed factors that cause acne, we can explore the treatments. The two most common acne treatments are benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid.

Benzoyl peroxide works by killing the bacteria that causes acne. This bacteria (Propionibacteria acne)cannot live in an oxygen rich environment. The structure of benzoyl peroxide actually contains 4 Oxygen atoms per molecule (that's a lot). In essence this ingredient floods the pores with oxygen thereby killing the acne causing bacteria. Benzoyl peroxide also works to keep the pores clear of dead skin cells. Thus, not only does it treat acne, but it helps to prevent future breakouts. This treatment is most effective on mild to moderate acne and can be used with other acne treatments. Because there is no real cure for acne, treatment must be ongoing to ensure clear skin. Benzoyl peroxide is overwhelmingly popular in part because there are no known side effects that come with prolonged use.

Benzoyl peroxide is available in many forms including liquid, cream and bar cleansers, toner, concentrated cream, shaving cream, gel etc. The general consensus is to start treatments in a concentration of 2.5% for at least three weeks and track the results. Benzoyl peroxide is available in stronger concentrations, however, they are a lot more irritating to the skin so the side effects may outweigh the benefits in some situations. The goal is to use the lowest and most effective concentration possible. It is important to note benzoyl peroxide is not to be used as a spot treatment. This ingredient is known to be drying, so it is important to use a good non-comedogenic (doesn't clog pores) moisturizer. Also, peroxides are bleaching agents so avoid getting them in your hair, or on clothes and towels.

Unlike benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid does not treat acne bacteria. It is used to treat acne caused by clogged pores that appear in the form of white and blackheads. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that sloughs away dead skin cells that could possibly clog the pores. It is able to penetrate the pores keeping them clear and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is available over the counter in lotion, cream, cleanser, toner, and pre-soaked application pads. Most treatment concentrations range from 0.5% to 2%. Proper use of salicylic acid as an acne treatment would be to start with either the application pads or lotion/cream to get acne under control. Once your skin has cleared it is safe to graduate to a once a week wash or scrub. The use of more than one form of the treatment is highly discouraged as salicylic acid can be very drying and irritating. Similar to benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid treatments must be ongoing to continue to see positive results. Possible side effects are stinging, burning and excessive dryness. As always be sure to use a good moisturizer.

In the next post of this series will discuss a few less common acne treatments, spot acne treatments and Accutane by request. Until then...

Eeek! Where did this Acne Come From?!

2009-08-05T17:56:00.006-04:00

A few of you have asked me beauty questions regarding acne and acne treatments. I like to be thorough with my answers so now is the perfect time for a blog series on acne. We will start with the causes, after all, if you don't know why it happens how can you treat it?

The source of acne lies far beneath the skin's surface in the sebaceous hair follicles (also known as pores). The sebaceous glands produce an oil called sebum which is your skin's natural "moisture" supply. If all goes well then when your skin cells die, they are sloughed off in your sebum supply. Sometimes, things go awry and your skin cells don't slough evenly. Whatever is left of dead skin cells and bacteria etc gets sticky and clogs the sebaceous hair follicle(s). Overtime, there is a build up of sebum, dead cells and bacteria which presents itself in the form of a pimple or acne. In addition to the gookey stuff, the body will respond by sending an army of white blood cells to fight the bacteria-- those get stuck too and while in battle increase pressure in the bump and cause it to hurt. Ultimately the factors that affect acne are your body's rate of skin cell regeneration and sebum production.

The above is fact. The following is my educated opinion. I welcome my esthy friends to weigh in.

The consensus in the medical/scientific world is that dirt, food and most cosmetics do not cause or even affect the severity of acne. I beg to differ. Keeping in mind that acne is generally caused by dead skin cells and bacteria becoming sticky and clogging the pores, I can't imagine how dirt wouldn't get stuck in there too. I have the same theory for makeup that is applied in excess and not properly removed. In regards to food (junk food) our bodies get rid of toxins the best way they know how-- secreting toxins through the pores is not a far cry. Consider this: How many of us have been able to smell garlic on a person's body. I mean, they didn't even have to speak and you just knew they had Italian food for lunch. Or how about the odor of alcohol radiating off of a person that has had entirely too much to drink... Its seeping out of their pores! My point is-- all the chemical preservatives, fat and cholesterol that is ingested from junk food has to get out somehow and the normal exit is not always the most efficient.

So that's acne in a nutshell. There is no real cure for acne, but there are treatments. Once successfully treated, prevention is key. We will discuss courses of action in the next post of the series.

Until then... Stay Glamorous, acne and all!

Scent Inspirations

2009-07-29T20:56:00.003-04:00

Its been quite awhile since I've shared my scent inspirations with you all. The first was inspired by the feather fashion trend. That scent actually made it to my product line as Arabesque. I was later inspired by a funky piece of furniture. Today I called on my Twitter friends for inspiration from their favorite songs. Thanks to @_JenniferElaine, @Relax_Naturally and @Krissy90220 for playing along.

Purple Rain (Prince)

The music and the melody of this song inspire a deep, heavy, sultry blend. In my mind I see (smell)a heavy floral top note anchored by a touch of spice and rounded off with a hint of musk or vanilla. My florals of choice would be rose, tuberose and/or lavender. For a spicey note I'm leaning toward carnation. A leather note would be kind of sexy in this blend too but minus the vanilla or musk.

Money Honey (Lady GaGa)

This song is fun, but its hot too. I think a citrus blend is fitting. I imagine a combination of grapefruit and lime top notes, ylang ylang to add something sweet to the blend with ginger and balsam peru at the base.

Bridge Over Troubled Water (Simon and Garfunkel)

What a lovely song! I drew inspiration from the lyrics of this song because while listening to it I seemed to totally ignore the music. For me this song is the epitome of a mother's love; constant, free and unconditional. This scent has to be warm, inviting and comforting. My vision is a benzoin and/or vanilla base, a nutmeg and clove heart and a touch of jasmine to make it complete.

I plan to experiment with each of these fragrances in the near future. I enjoy the creative process of turning my vision into reality.

Thanks ladies for the inspiration!

Teach Yourself to Crawl

2009-07-23T00:22:00.002-04:00

Its been quite awhile since I've done a self-esteem post. One of my main goals in life and business is to help women learn to love themselves completely. A big part of loving yourself is celebrating the things you are good at and the things you have accomplished. Just as significant is creating new reasons to be proud of yourself. Humans are the most intelligent life forms. We have the ability to constantly learn, grow and change; meaning we have infinite opportunities to strive toward being our best selves. That means we should always set goals, accomplish them and set more.

I was watching my son move around a couple days ago, fascinated by his development, when I had a very intriguing thought. We teach babies how to walk, but we never teach them to crawl. How relevant that is to everyday life! Crawling is the first step to a person's independent mobility. After we master crawling, we are ready to walk so we look to someone to teach us. Here's my point: Do all that you can to help yourself achieve great things BEFORE you reach out for help. When you have first learned to crawl, you have increased confidence and experience the feeling of accomplishment which gives you the drive to achieve even more. It is inevitable that we will need some help getting to where we want to be, but we should never rely on someone else to get us started.

Its ok to get your knees a little dusty before you slip on those stilettos.

Lead... Is It In You?

2009-07-15T13:15:00.004-04:00

Lead is not really a new fear factor. We have known for at least 2 decades that lead based paint is a "no-no", especially if you have small children. In more recent years scientists and health professionals have begun to point out lead content in other items that are typically ingested. The FDA currently regulates lead content in candy and food/cosmetic dyes. Unfortunately, no level of lead is deemed safe for ingestion, so even with regulation, there is still the possibility of ill-effects. The real purpose of this post is to discuss the dangers of lead because it can be ingested from your use of lipstick.

It is estimated that over a lifetime, the average woman ingests 4-10 lbs of lipstick. That is an awful lot when you consider how little you put on at a time. Imagine for a second eating lipstick by the tube... each is probably about a half ounce (I don't really know, just roll with me.) There are 16 oz in a lb... so 1 lb of lipstick is 32 sticks... times 10... that's 320 tubes of lipstick!!! Enough of the numbers, my point is, eating that much lipstick with a lead content of any amount is playing with fire.

Lead is harmful in that it has been found to be a neurotoxin that hinders learning, language and behavioral development, lowers IQ, and can cause increased aggression in some individuals. The problem is so major because the body cannot process and eliminate lead, so what is ingested over time will remain built up inside you.

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics conducted an in depth study of lead levels 33 popular lipsticks on the market. What they found is only 39% of the lipsticks they tested showed no detectable levels of lead. This means chances are, your favorite lipstick is toxic-- Buyer BEWARE!

There are some natural alternatives that are lead free, but they are a little harder to find. My suggestion is to scour the internet and support your handmade cosmetic companies. Click here to view the full report A Poison Kiss: The Problem of Lead in Lipstick.

Intelligence is the ultimate glam accessory... don't ruin it with lead exposure!

Treat Your Feet... Its a Requirement!!!!

2009-07-08T17:41:00.004-04:00

This blog post is the result of numerous twitpics, tweets and comments regarding BAD FEET. While we are not all fortunate enough to treat ourselves to periodic spa pedi's, there are plenty of cheap and easy ways to manage the condition of the skin on your feet. Here are just a few simple home remedies that will make even the most difficult feet presentable. Men, you can benefit from these tips as well!

The first step to decent feet is a good soak. Soaks are necessary to soften the cuticles, dead skin and callouses that form on the feet. You can find plenty of ingredients for a good soak right in your kitchen cabinet. Although I've never tried it myself, I've been told a mix of apple cider vinegar and warm water does an excellent job of priming the skin. Mix the vinegar and water in equal parts and soak your feet for 15-20 minutes. Be sure the water is warm, not hot. Hot water is drying to the skin. This soak has also been known to cure athlete's foot.

Following the soak, use a loofa sponge, pumice stone or foot rasp to scrub the dead skin from your feet. Now would be a good time to also use a homemade salt or sugar scrub. Try brown sugar or sea salt with olive oil. I think a good ratio is 3:1 sugar/salt:oil but feel free to play around with the ratio until you get a texture that you like (or need). Here's a tip: Never use a or let anyone else use a credo blade to remove the dead skin from your feet. It removes far too many layers of skin both healthy and dead. As with any healing process, the skin will come back more tough and thicker than before. The result is similar to the development of a scab when a cut or scrape is healing.

After a good scrubbing, your feet could benefit from a mask and a great moisturizer. A mixture of oatmeal, honey and olive oil makes a great mask to soothe and moisturize the skin. The key is to make it thick so that it sticks to your feet for awhile. Rinse feet with warm water and follow with your favorite lotion. Wear a pair of white cotton socks for awhile to lock in the moisture.

A little daily TLC for your tootsies will go a long way in preventing those embarassing "kicking flour" moments. My best advice is to keep a pumice stone and/or foot rasp in the shower right next to your razor.

Bad feet can ruin the hottest strappy stilettos and that's not glamorous at all!

Here's to the glam life!

The Case For Exfoliation

2009-06-20T12:47:00.005-04:00

As I am sure you know by now, my skin is very important to me. Its also rather temperamental! I have extremely dry skin which tends to flake and gets worse depending on the weather. I don't just mean a change in season... I mean if its 75 degrees today and then tomorrow its 52 degrees my skin will instantly be a flaky, dry mess! Living in Michigan I have plenty of sucky skin days. I have always used an exfoliant for my face, but just began daily full body exfoliation within the last six months. Here's my case for exfoliation for any skin type.

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the outer layer of the skin (epidermis). Skin cells regenerate every day in the lower layer of the skin (dermis). In order for the young skin cells to show there brilliance the old skin cells that make our skin rough, dry and dull need to be removed. For dry skin types, dead skin cells accumulate and make the skin look and feel even more dry. They also prevent moisture from penetrating the pores. For oily skin types, dead skin cells get trapped in the oil naturally produced by your skin and clog the pores. This causes the skin to not only appear dull but also results in breakouts. Exfoliation becomes more important as we age because the natural process of cell turnover slows down.

There are two types of exfoliation: Mechanical and Chemical. Mechanical exfoliation uses various abrasives to physically remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface. Daily mechanical exfoliation should be limited to gentle exfoliants like finely ground fruit seeds, fine sugar/salt, etc. A more abrasive exfoliant like medium to coarse salt/sugar, jojoba beads and whole fruit seeds (like grape and strawberry seeds) can be used 1-2 times per week to really refresh the skin.

Chemical exfoliation employs alphahydroxy acids (AHA's), betahydroxy acids (BHA's)and enzymes to loosen the "glue" that holds dead skin cells together and sloughs them away. Citrus fruits such as lemons, tomatoes, grapefruit, oranges and lime contain natural chemicals (AHA's and BHA's, etc) that exfoliate without the need for rubbing or scrubbing. Chemical exfoliation should be used sparingly and in safe concentrations. Even natural chemicals can be way too strong for use on the skin (especially sensitive skin).

Most natural exfoliants are also rich in vitamins and minerals which is great for healthy skin. Any exfoliating treatment should be followed by a good moisturizer. After proper exfoliation, the skin can more easily absorb a moisturizer because it has been wiped clean of debris and the pores are open.

The second step in the Envie Body Care Systeme is our Silkening Body Polish which is a combination of exfoliants and a moisturizer. Our body polish is suitable for daily use as it contains a fine mechanical exfoliant (crushed walnut shells) and a gentle chemical exfoliant (Bamboo extract). The body polish is followed by our Luxury Shower Gel which is infused with Jojoba Oil and our Conditioning Body Butter Creme with Shea butter, Cocoa Butter, Marajuca, Avocado, Pumpkin Seed and Jojoba Oils.

Exfoliation is key for healthy, glowing, radiant skin... and what's more glam than that?!

Learn more about Envie and buy our products HERE

Evolution of a Woman; Growth of a Brand

2009-06-16T10:38:00.005-04:00

Not too long ago I was having a conversation with my mom that really put some things in perspective. Just looking back at my life; the things I've done, what I've learned and what I've always wanted to do, I realized that I have been moving towards my life purpose everyday. Sometimes crawling, sometimes walking and other times running. When you're living in your purpose, everything comes together and you begin to see that the cliche "Everything happens for a reason" is really true.

I fell in love with chemistry in high school and took all the chemistry classes I could fit in my schedule. I'm a nerd, I know! But I'm also a glam girl. So I paired my love of chemistry and my infatuation with healthy skin and hair to choose the perfect career.

Envie began to take shape in my freshman year of college. There was a really basic assignment to give a quick speech about your career choice. I kept it short, but it was thorough... I made posters with pictures of my imaginary products, wrote product descriptions and an ad campaign. When I look back that was probably a really dorky thing to do, but that was me-- putting my dreams on paper and sharing them with everyone who was [forced] to listen.

I built the Envie brand to represent me. Everything from the name to the fundamental mission of Envie is about who I am. Envie (on-vee-ay) is the french translation for desire-- a spin off of my name Desiree. I believe in vanity. When women care for their outer selves it makes a difference in the way they feel on the inside. Their confidence builds and they are thus able to achieve more. I believe in health. Our bodies need more than a quick fix or concealer; our skin needs nutrition to reach its greatest potential. I believe in luxury. Everyone should have the opportunity to enjoy the finer things-- Envie is among them. I believe in personal growth and development thus Envie seeks out women's organizations to aid in their missions. I believe in giving back via my time, efforts, money and love.

I don't represent my brand. My brand represents me. Get to know Envie.
Visit our Pre-Launch site HERE

Envie Pre-Launch

2009-06-12T13:25:00.002-04:00

As you all know, I have been working tirelessly on launching my line of bath and body products. As with any venture I have faced some road blocks, but I trudge on! So today I am pleased to share that we have positioned ourselves for a Pre-Launch. We still have a short way to go before the official launch of Envie Bath and Body, but we saw no reason why we couldn't offer you just a little bit of the good stuff.

The Pre-Launch was inspired by the overwhelming feedback that we received after hosting a few sampling events. You were ready to buy and who are we to deny you the chance! So this Pre-Launch is nothing fancy; just a temporary site for you to buy our products before their official release. And to show our appreciation, we're offering some pretty deep discounts.

There are 3 campaigns scheduled for the Pre-Launch, maybe more. Your response will determine how long we keep the good stuff coming!

The first campaign begins at midnight Monday, June 15, 2009 and will run for ONE WEEK ONLY!

Here's what we're offering:

The Envie Body Care Systeme-- Our unique product grouping was specially designed to nourish, condition and soften your skin. This system consists of four products that are all natural and naturally scented with our own essential oil blends. The featured products are: Luxury Bubble Bath, Silkening Body Polish, Luxury Shower Gel and Conditioning Body Butter Creme. Purchase the entire systeme or individual items. By using the complete Body Care Systeme your skin will absorb all of these wonderful nutrients:

Linoleic acid

Oleic acid

Palmitic acid

Stearic acid

Linolenic acid

Vitamins A, B1, B2, B5 (Panthothenic acid), D, E, C and K

Minerals

Silica

Protein

Lecithin

We can't wait to serve you! Here's to the Glam Life!

Natural vs Synthetic: A Chemist's Perspective

2009-05-24T19:25:00.007-04:00

The craze to "go green" and buy "organic" and "natural" is growing exponentially. The proponents of "natural" speak highly of the benefits and tend to leave out the possible risks, while the big name cosmetic chemists will tell you there is no harm in using synthetics. So, I'm offering my unbiased perspective as a cosmetic chemist that has developed a natural bath and body product line. I'll keep it short.

If you flip through the previous posts you'll find that I have defined quite a few of the typical ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products. As a chemist, I have a healthy respect for chemicals; they serve their purpose and most are harmless in the concentrations used. What synthetics lack is the nutritive benefits that "natural" ingredients have. I refer to natural in quotations for two reasons. 1) There is no FDA standard for what is considered natural. Anyone can make the claim whether its true or not. 2) Chemicals are "natural" too! Every element in the periodic table comes from the earth. Those elements come together to make both natural and synthetic ingredients alike.

There are two problems with synthetics that I consider significant. The first problem relates more to vanity than anything else. Synthetic ingredients (silicone oils for example) cannot be absorbed by the skin. They sit on top of the skin forming a protective barrier (good), but don't provide any health benefits. The second problem I find with synthetics is that the chemicals end up in our water supply and reek havoc on our environment and ecosystem. They also increase air pollution. With natural ingredients, you give your skin vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, alpha hydroxy acids, etc; a lot of which your body cannot produce on its own. Going natural means less pollution, better air quality (indoor and outdoor), less chemicals in the water run-off and higher profitability to farmers-- local, nationwide and global.

Synthetic ingredients are often noted for "dermal irritation" especially when being discussed by natural product developers. However, it is important to note that natural ingredients can cause just as much if not more dermal irritation and allergic reactions. The truth is, allergies exist no matter how we try to eliminate them. Actually quite a few essential oils are known to cause skin sensitization and there are others that are toxic as well.

The moral of the story is synthetics and naturals have an equal list of pros and cons. It is up to the consumer to decide what is important and make purchases based on that decision. I have used synthetic personal care products up until now and they served me well. But at this point in my life, I feel a responsibility to protect my environment and to give my body more benefit than harm.

Whatever you choose, glam it up!

Long, Luxurious Hair: The Technique

2009-05-12T15:30:00.003-04:00

In order to maximize your personal hair growth cycle, you should implement a consistent hair care routine. This post is just my suggestion; the technique I use to ensure my hair is as healthy as possible. Remember healthy hair is key to getting your hair to its longest length. Alter this technique so that it suits your particular needs.

Wash your hair often (at least once a week) with a good quality moisturizing shampoo followed by moisturizing conditioner. Remember to steer clear of alcohols which are very drying to the scalp and hair. Greasy hair needs to be washed more often than dryer, curly hair. **Dirty hair does not grow faster than clean hair. That's just nasty! Avoid 2 in 1 products; their conditioning is rarely as effective as a stand alone conditioner. For softer hair, do not rinse away all the conditioner. Leaving a trace of conditioner on the hair helps to smooth the cuticle layer and provides a layer of protection until the next wash. Once a month, I recommend a deep conditioner. Leave it on for no less than 10-15 minutes, but really what's the rush? Relax, watch a movie, read a book.

As previously discussed, regular trims are essential to ensure the hair on your hair is its healthiest. I usually get my ends trimmed with every relaxer treatment. For me that is every 4 weeks. Most stylists recommend a trim every six to eight weeks. Just be mindful of how your ends look. If they are frizzy, dry or transparent, its definitely time for a trim.

Since heat is not a friend to our hair, keep heat styling to a minimum. Blow dry your hair and then heat style as desired ONCE A WEEK. Use a light hair oil or a thermal styling product to help protect your hair from heat damage. Do not pick up a flat iron, curling iron, crimping iron, etc again until the next wash. You'll be surprised how much you reduce split ends and breakage just following this one rule.

There is a lot of pressure to go natural these days. If you feel the urge, look for products with botanicals, herbs and minerals in the ingredients. Such products will provide many nutrients that the body does not produce on its own. You can get the same benefits of natural hair care by altering your diet to include the foods discussed in "The Friend". When making the switch from mainstream hair products to all natural hair products, the condition of your hair may appear to get worse before it gets better. This phenomenon is similar to an addict in recovery, the hair goes through a withdrawal period.

One last note, chemically treated hair needs extra TLC. If your hair is permanently colored, bleached, permed or relaxed, you should consider using a deep conditioner with each wash and adding a hot oil treatment once a month. You may also find that you need to get your ends trimmed more regularly. To one and all-- go easy on the styling products. Product buildup is definitely "The Enemy".

Here's to the Glam Life and Long, Luxurious Hair!

Long, Luxurious Hair: The Friend

2009-05-04T17:15:00.004-04:00

In the previous posts for the Long, Luxurious Hair Series, we discussed the science behind hair growth and factors that negatively affect the growth process. Armed with that information, we are now able to investigate ways to optimize individual hair growth cycles. The key is to protect the hair from extensive damage and breakage.

The very best way to promote healthy hair growth is from the inside out. Incorporating foods that aid in hair growth and strength is a healthy and safe way to reach the ultimate goal. Hair is made primarily of a strong protein called keratin which is also found in skin and nails. Variations in the amino acids found in keratin account for the differences in texture with some being soft and/flexible and some being hard. Since hair is made of protein, eating foods that are high in protein will be beneficial to the condition of the hair. Iron, B Vitamins, Essential Fatty Acids, Vitamin E and sulfur are also good additions to a healthy hair diet. Adding more of the following foods will be a good start: fish, eggs, leafy green vegetables, yogurt and nuts. Experimenting with different recipes that include these foods is a fun way to change your diet. Stear clear of hair growth supplements, they are potentially dangerous and unnecessary.

Aside from altering your eating habits, there are some topical hair treatments that will help to repair and prevent damage. Moisture is a must for healthy hair. Dry hair is often brittle and easily broken. It is important to note that hair oil products are not moisturizing products. Good moisturizing products will infuse moisture (water) in the hair shaft which hydrates the cuticle layer helping to create shine and prevent breakage and/or split ends. Use shampoos and conditioners that have humectants in the ingredients list. Humectants draw moisture to the hair and hold it there. Some humectants are glycerin, honey, sugar cane, hydrolyzed wheat starch, sodium PCA, panthenol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and acetamide MEA. Also be sure to avoid of sulfates and alcohol which strip the hair of its natural oils.

Heat styling can cause damage to the hair shaft when used in excess. In addition to minimizing the use of heat, you should invest in thermal styling hair products which help to protect the hair from permanent damage and usually have other nutritive properties.

Finally, having your ends trimmed on a regular basis is your hair's very best friend. Split ends are not only unsightly, but they spread. Ragged ends easily get tangled with other strands of hair and cause breakage when the hair is combed or brushed. Uncontrolled split ends continue to split, higher and higher up the hair shaft causing frizzy, dry, damaged looking hair. When this sort of damage is finally addressed, the hair has to be cut much more than it would had it been dealt with early. Most stylists recommend a scheduled trim every six weeks.

In the final post of the series, we will discuss a technique to maintaining healthy hair for optimal hair growth.

Long, Luxurious Hair : The Enemy

2009-04-15T22:19:00.004-04:00

Before I begin discussing "The Enemy", I'd like to give a brief and blunt recap of Part I. Simply put, a person's hair will grow only to the length that their individual growth cycle allows. There is no product or technique that will extend your unique hair growth cycle. That being said, healthy hair should be the ultimate goal. The result of improperly cared for hair is breakage. Naturally breakage abbreviates the potential length of your hair. There are several culprits which negatively affect the hair growth cycle. Included are heat, chemicals and styling products. Here's why:

The most key fact in understanding "The Enemy" is knowing that by the time the hair emerges from the scalp, it is no longer alive. Consider a fresh flower arrangement. Once the flowers are cut, they are no longer receiving a continual supply of the nutrients needed to survive. As the recipient of the flowers, we do all we can to keep the flowers in bloom for as long as possible. We clip the stems at just the right angle, put them in water, add plant food, prune the leaves, etc. Similarly, our hair needs just as much TLC.

Heat styling can be both beneficial and counter-productive. The benefits will be discussed in Part III. When heat is applied to the hair, it breaks the hydrogen bonds (water molecules) found on the cuticle layer. The cuticle layer is then opened and the hair is able to be reshaped and maintains this new shape upon cooling. When water, in liquid or steam form, is introduced, the hydrogen bonds reform and the hair returns to its natural state. Excessive use of heat causes severe damage to the cuticle layer which will eventually lose its ability to "bounce back", thus breakage results.

The majority of American women have chemically altered their hair at some point. This includes permanent waves (perms/jerry curls), relaxers and permanent color treatments. Each involves the use of strong acids or bases which just aren't pretty for anything dead or alive. I'm sure I don't need to prove that, each of those treatments will cause chemical burns on the scalp if left on too long. Damage to the cuticle layer from these processes is inevitable. In the case of permanent color treatments, the product is meant to literally strip the cuticle layer until the desired color is acheived. Sounds painful!

Styling products are not such harsh villains, but they can cause significant damage nonetheless. Typically, mousse, styling/sculpting gel, holding spray, etc contain alcohol which can be very drying to the hair. Paired with the heat from a blow dryer, curling or flat iron, the hair shaft suffers a great deal of damage apparent by split ends and breakage.

Look for Part III where I will discuss how to fight the enemy yet still enjoy the styling we love.

Long, Luxurious Hair: The Science

2009-04-07T16:47:00.003-04:00

The Science is Part I of a 4 part series geared at dispelling the myths, providing the facts and suggesting techniques for optimal hair growth. The topics to be discussed later are The Enemy, The Friend and The Technique.

Fact or Fiction? Anybody can grow long hair with proper care. FICTION-- Here's why:

Each individual has a unique hair cycle which accounts for the length of their hair. A complete hair cycle consists of 3 phases: anagen, catagen and telogen. Anagen is the active growth phase of the hair cycle. The duration of the anagen phase is 3-7 years depending on the individual. In contrast, the rate of hair growth is generally the same for everyone. Hair usually grows at a rate of one centimeter a month; although there are factors that can affect the rate of growth ie season and health. The anagen phase is initiated in the follicle embedded deep in the scalp. Over time, the follicle gradually rises to the surface presenting the hair shaft.

The catagen phase is the rest period for the hair lasting approximately 2-4 weeks. During the catagen phase, the hair is no longer actively growing, however; the follicle is still moving towards the surface of the scalp. The follicle also begins to shrink in size marking its near demise.

The final phase of the hair cycle is the telogen phase. This is the period of time in which the follicle sheds mature hair. The shedding period lasts about 3-4 months. In the telogen phase, hair is either shed naturally or pulled out painlessly in the typical grooming process of shampooing, combing, brushing, etc. With the shedding of old hair, the follicle is ready to cultivate the growth of new hair; thus marking both the ending and beginning of the hair cycle. At any given time, 90% of hair on the scalp is in the anagen phase while the remaining 10% is in the telogen phase.

The anagen phase is the segment of the hair cycle that is responsible for length. Unfortunately the duration of an individual's anagen phase is genetically determined. In other words, there is no way to alter the length of one's anagen phase nor the natural length of one's hair. Hormones play a significant role in the anagen phase and provide an explanation for the variances in hair growth between men and women. Androgen, the male hormone present in both males and females, has the greatest affect on hair growth and thickness. Oestrogen, the female hormone also present in both sexes, decrease the rate of hair growth, yet extend the growth period. In pregnancy, the oestrogen levels are much higher which is why hair tends to grow longer in those 9 months. Ultimately, the balance between androgen and oestrogen in individuals regulates hair growth.

Personal Branding

2009-04-01T12:13:00.002-04:00

We are all familiar with the cliche-- "First impressions are lasting impressions." It seems that today this couldn't be more true. Personal Branding is the concept of packaging yourself in a way that makes you marketable in your career, allows you to command attention when you enter a room and leads to an overall increase in self esteem. The goal is to present yourself in the manner in which you want to be perceived. For many of us, this is simply a matter of playing up existing attributes; for others its a 'fake it til you make it' undertaking.

For the purposes of this post, let's focus on the superficial packaging; the 'you' people perceive at first sight. As much as I despise it, the way you present yourself has great bearing on the opinions formed by others. Excess facial hair gives the idea that you have something to hide. A slovenly appearance indicates laziness and lack of ambition... and so on. The clothes you wear, style of your hair, your makeup routine all say something about who you are as a person or better yet how others view you.

Less considered but no less important is the fragrance you wear. It is a little known fact that smell is the sense most closely related to memory. The scent you wear can invoke thoughts, impressions and memories in others as well as in yourself. Oftentimes, people wear fragrances that are a mismatch to their personality and/or goals. For this reason, I recommend adding a custom fragrance to your personal branding package. A fragrance made to suit your unique persona can not only improve your first impressions, it can also induce confidence, self assurance and assertiveness.

Contact Envie Bath and Body to inquire about custom fragrance services. Introductory pricing applies for a limited time only!

Lip Plumpers

2009-03-27T12:02:00.003-04:00

Every woman wants luscious lips, but not all of us are so blessed. I've become an avid reader of beauty blogs and i can't help but notice that lip plumpers are everywhere! There are plumping glosses, balms, lipsticks, stains-- the list just goes on and on. So of course, my intrigue is how do they work? I've never used a plumper so I didn't have the luxury of flipping it over and reading the ingredients list, but of course I found the active ingredient!

So I've read that these plumpers tingle when applied which leads you to believe they work. Good news, you're right! The tingle sensation is attributed to menthoxypropanediol, a derivative of menthol. The way it works is by causing irritation of the skin resulting in swelling. So why doesn't regular old menthol have the same affect? Well, it can slightly, but menthoxypropanediol is made synthetically in a lab and it is twice as strong as menthol which results in greater irritation.

Because of the way these plumpers work, it is recommended that they are not used daily to prevent damage to the delicate skin on the lips. My suggestion: use sparingly for nights out as a part of your glam look.

Crazy Week!

2009-03-27T11:13:00.002-04:00

Hello All! This week has been like a roller coaster; plenty of ups and downs. I've been coping with the inevitable. Regretfully, my official launch which was originally scheduled for April 1, 2009 must be postponed. There are some loose ends that cannot be tied right now and I just can't reconcile a raggedy launch. My line means too much to me not to be perfect. I am, however, able to offer my custom services. I'm in the process of setting up a temporary website where the services are explained in detail. As soon as it is up and running I will post the URL.

I want to thank everyone who has been a support to me in this venture. Doors and windows are being opened for me everyday. Success is right around the corner!

Now, I owe you all a techie post and an um, what?! post. I'm throwing out the daily post assignments. Life is getting increasingly hectic so I may not be able to post everyday, but you will still get the same substance. Please continue to visit daily and tell your friends about the site.

Thanks!

Maintenance Monday: You Can Do Anything!

2009-03-23T12:18:00.002-04:00

Almost everyone has a dream that seems unattainable. You alone may not think you can pull it off, then you make the mistake of sharing your dream with someone totally undeserving of hearing it and you get the "now what makes you think you can do that?" look. Unfortunately, we can be our own worst enemy and friends and family are our resident goon squad. No wonder the dream seems impossible, there is no faith and positivity behind it.

If there is a dream in your heart, you have the responsibility to work towards it. All things are possible, especially those things you have a strong desire to achieve. The first step to living your dreams is to tell yourself you can do it. Start your mornings by speaking to yourself in the mirror; allowing only positive affirmations to leave your mouth. Example monologue: "Good morning Desiree! The start of this day brings you closer to your dream. You are hardworking, steadfast and dedicated to your goals. The ball is in your court and you're destined to win. Don't allow the negativity of others ruin your day. You are positive and will reap the benefits of your disposition. Have a very productive day! I love you!"

You may find it helpful to write a script to memorize and recite every morning. Having a standard conversation with yourself every morning will prevent you from saying anything negative by accident. Lets face it, some days we just don't feel positive, but positive affirmations can make all the difference on those days. I emphasize the mirror because it is important that you see you telling you great things. You have to believe yourself in order to combat the negativity of others.

Although I would prefer not to hear anyone say what I want can't be done, I accept it as a challenge. I get a kick out of showing Mr. and Mrs. Negative that I can indeed do the impossible. I believe that is a great approach to reversing the negativity-- Oh you don't think I can? Just watch me!!! Prime example--- I'm starting a company during a recession that hasn't even peaked yet, but I can guarantee you I will succeed!

In closing, you know who the nay sayers are. They don't deserve the privilege of knowing your dreams. They'll know soon enough when you're living it!

Be unstoppable!

Um, What?! Glycolic Acid

2009-03-18T14:29:00.002-04:00

A couple years ago, while in the midst of a battle with my temperamental skin, a friend of mine recommended I try a chemical peel. The title alone was enough to keep me from trying it. I have very dry skin, opting for a chemical peel just screams "Dry me out some more!!!!" Thankfully I saved myself the heartache.

Glycolic acid is the active ingredient in chemical peels. While it has a host of benefits, they do not come without a cost. Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from sugar cane. It can be used industrially for rust removal and degreasing, but is more commonly used in skin care products as an exfoliator, moisturizer and wrinkle reducer. It is only classified as safe at less than 10%; however, is most effective at concentrations of 10% and higher. Generally only smaller cosmetic companies are willing to take the risk of liability for higher concentrations of glycolic acid in their formulas.

When used in an exfoliating cream, this highly acidic ingredient penetrates damaged skin and burns it off chemically. Other ingredients in the cream carry away residual dead skin flakes. The acid in the cream is neutralized by water when it is rinsed off. Following exfoliation, glycolic acid has the ability to act as a humectant by drawing moisture to the skin. Using products with glycolic acid can cause increased sensitivity to the sun ; thus, a high spf sunscreen is recommended. If that isn't scary enough, the chemical peel process is just horrendous! After a good scrub of the skin, a highly concentrated alpha hydroxy acid (usually glycolic acid) is applied. Allow me to classify highly concentrated. Recall glycolic acid can be used to remove rust, this at a concentration not to exceed 70%. The concentration of glycolic acid in chemical peels begins at 50%! So what you're applying to your face just may be strong enough to remove the rust from your car! NOT GOOD.

It is likely that for a few days following a chemical peel treatment, the skin will appear red and irritated, sort of like a burn... I wonder why! The skin on the face is so delicate, I can't imagine why anyone would want to use such a potent acid on it. I could better relate to the use of a chemical peel on much rougher/tougher skin like that on the feet. While I do not oppose the use of alpha hydroxy acids in skin care treatments, I do think it is important to have some discretion.

Techie Tuesday: The Caffeine Trend

2009-03-17T13:51:00.002-04:00

Caffeine is used in a multitude of cosmetic products, but is it just a popular trend that will eventually pass? or is it really effective? The function of caffeine in cosmetic applications is to reduce the appearance of cellulite and puffiness under the eyes. I am rather suspicious of these claims of caffeine in a topical application considering so many women drink coffee, tea and soda pop daily yet still have the cellulite/puffy eye dilemma. Here's an example to help put this into perspective. My 4 month old son has a nasty case of eczema which led to a skin infection, while the dermatologist prescribed a topical antibiotic, the allergist said that wouldn't be enough. He is currently taking an oral antibiotic to clear the infection from his blood stream, not just on his skin. My point is ingesting caffeine on a daily basis should seemingly be more effective than applying it topically. Also consider the difference in concentration. Eye creams come in the smallest little pots imaginable, how much caffeine do you think you're getting in one application? Certainly not as much as you would ingest from a cup of coffee or a 16 oz Coke! Lets further investigate the claims.

In connection with cellulite creams, caffeine can have a tightening effect on the skin. This is actually a sign of skin irritation, but if it works... why not? right? Cellulite (which is not a medical term) is the body's natural store system for fat. What makes it so unsightly is when it begins to bulge under pressure of the connective tissue. Connective tissue in women lacks the flexibility that it has in the male body. In eye creams, caffeine can increase blood flow which probably won't reduce puffiness, but it may have a dramatic affect on redness and dark circles. Caffeine is also a proven antioxidant.

The moral of the story is, while caffeine may not actually perform according to its advertised claims, it still has the ability to enhance most cosmetic applications.

Maintenace Monday: Beauty All Around You

2009-03-16T20:39:00.002-04:00

"Never lose an opportunity of seeing anything beautiful, for beauty is God's handwriting."

Ralph Waldo Emerson

As spring peeks around the corner, so do endless opportunities to experience beauty at its finest. As the snow melts, the grass "greens" and flowers begin to bloom. The transition alone is breathtaking. There is a light, fresh scent in the atmosphere, a gentle breeze in the air and the sun peaks with a delicate glow. All the changes in the environment refresh the mind, body and soul of women everywhere and there is a sort of trickle down affect that induces a change in our own appearances.

I've noticed that everything about a woman becomes more feminine as the weather breaks. The make-up gets lighter-- softer colors, shimmer foundation and lip gloss instead of opaque lipstick. Much of the red nail lacquer is replaced with sweet pinks, lavenders and ice blues. And we trade in the gray and navy blue sweaters for funky green and spunky pink blazers and airy dresses.

I've always been able to recognize beauty in other women. I notice great hair and skin, a woman's sense of style and the way she carries herself with confidence and grace. Although I don't always express a compliment, I have a great respect and appreciation for the beauty of a woman. As an exercise in self esteem, take the time to enjoy all of the springtime scenery; the weather, the plant life and the beauty of the human race. The ability to recognize the beauty of another woman without feeling threatened or intimidated is a sure signed of inner security.

Take it all in!

Updates...

2009-03-15T11:44:00.003-04:00

I haven't posted anything since Wednesday for good reason. Primarily, as April 1 draws near, I have quite a few loose ends to tie. I've been making final touches on the scents for the signature series. I'm rather pleased with the results so far. I was also working on a project for a client which is now awaiting her approval. Lastly, I have developed preliminary formulas for the next set of products to roll out. I would like to make them available in mid-April. Let me tell you they are divine! I'll wait awhile before I tell you what they are in case I change the order of product release.

About the blog posts... I think Timeless Treasure Thursday has come close to running its course. I may write about a company from time to time, but ultimately the subject matter for Thursday will be replaced. I may begin to cover trends in hair, skin, makeup and nail care and periodically tie Thursday's posts in with Fresh Idea Friday. Another thought is to add another self esteem day. Sort of a "touch up" to follow Maintenance Monday. We'll play it by ear for now.

Be glamorous!

Um, What?! Urea

2009-03-11T17:01:00.005-04:00

When you hear the word 'urea' what is the first thing that comes to mind? If you thought about urine, you're not alone and you're certainly not wrong! Although urea is not literally urine, it is a component in the urine produced by mammals. The urea concentration in animal waste is much higher than that of humans. Fortunately, the urea used is not derived from animals or humans, it is produced synthetically. That is great for vegans but of no use to the au naturale beauties.

Urea, also known as carbamide, was first synthesized from inorganic materials in 1828 by Friedrich Wohler who was attempting to make something totally different. Urea was in fact the hands down proof that nature could be recreated in the lab using non-natural starting materials. Urea is mainly produced commercially/industrially as a fertilizer; however, it has significant applications in cosmetics and personal care products.

As an ingredient in cosmetics, urea is used as a preservative and also as a buffer, humectant and skin conditioning agent. A buffer controls the ratio of acids and bases. Typically, personal care products should have a pH close to that of water which is neutral (pH of 7). Humectants draw water to the skin which aids in hydration/moisturization. Urea is an active ingredient in products used to treat dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema and keratosis pilaris (chicken skin).

After review by the CIR urea showed low adverse affects. Dermal irritation was found to be insignificant. There were no reproductive or developmental issues. Urea was also cleared from any carcinogenic risks.

Techie Tuesday: Beauty Slime

2009-03-10T12:33:00.005-04:00

I'm sure we are all familiar with snails and the slimy little trail they leave behind. I once had an intimate relationship with a few snails in middle school. They were unwilling participants in a science project I developed regarding second hand smoke. FYI-- I no longer use animal testing. The slime was gross to say the least, but snails were the lesser of evils. I worked with mealworms first--extra gross!-- and I can't even bear the sight of slugs. Much to my surprise, snail trails have a profound application in cosmetics and skin care treatments.

The use of snail extract in beauty treatments was discovered accidentally by snail farmers in Chile. They noticed that cuts healed rather quickly and that all of the workers on the snail farm had unusually soft, supple hands. Typically, hard work with your hands equals hard, calloused hands, but that certainly was not the case. After taking the time to really think about it, it should be no surprise that snail slime has these properties. Critically thinking, snail's soft bellies travel over some very rough surfaces, yet they keep going and never appear to get injured. Scientists discovered that the snail extract--Helix Aspersa Muller Glycoconjugates-- contains collagen, allantoin, glycolic acid, elastin and antibiotics. Allantoin is responsible for skin regeneration. It is the anti-oxidant that allows a snail to repair/rebuild its shell if necessary. Glycolic acid is useful in hydrating and exfoliating the skin as well as assisting natural collagen production. The antibiotics in snail extract are a combination of peptides and Vitamins A, C and EA which work together to fight bacteria.

This is not 'new' science. The first snail cream was patented in 1995. It was used to fight wrinkles, acne, and age spots and to treat minor burns, cuts, stretch marks, warts, ingrown hairs, etc. The snails used to make various snail trail cosmetics are raised in a controlled environment to ensure they produce optimal extract. But how is the slime extracted?

One patented method is to agitate the snails in warm water. The water is then filtered to collect only the snail extract. I've read of other methods that were much more harsh than this. One involved removing the shell and cutting the fatty parts of the snail. Now is that really necessary? There is also concern about how effective the extract is after being stolen from the snail. Son of the Chilean farmer who originally discovered this miracle slime has developed a process to extract the slime and preserve its qualities. He claims his method does not harm the snails but that is definitely under suspicion since the method is top secret.

While it is a known fact that the snail trail has all these magnificent properties, there is no guarantee that they actually make it into your jar of cream or vial of serum. Additionally, the synthetic ingredients typically found in our beauty products may greatly alter the effectiveness of such a concoction.

Maintenance Monday: Strength and Compassion

2009-03-09T12:53:00.002-04:00

I had the pleasure of attending a very honorable event this past Thursday evening. The Vanguard Awards produced by the Detroit Young Professionals organization recognized 10 very deserving individuals who are making a significant impact on Metropolitan Detroit. One of the honorees, Kalyn Risker, stood out to me more than any of the others. The minute this woman began to speak, I could see her inner beauty shining bright like a beacon of light. Kalyn Risker is the founder of S.A.F.E (Sisters Acquiring Financial Empowerment) a non-profit organization dedicated to helping domestic violence survivors overcome the economical pains of leaving an unhealthy relationship.

Ms. Risker spoke with such passion, determination, strength and compassion about her cause. I made a point to introduce myself to her and extend my resources to her organization for more reasons than one. I truly believe that her mission will reach a multitude of suffering women which is reason enough to want to help. But more than that, this woman exudes the type of inner beauty that I have spoken so much about on Maintenance Mondays. Having overcome her own hardships, Risker seeks to empower other women to do the same. I applaud her efforts and look forward to working with her in the very near future.

Kalyn Risker is an example to us all. Continue striving to be your very best self--- inside and out. And don't forget to fight for a cause you believe in. Everybody needs some sort of help, why not be the one to offer it?

Click on SAFE to visit the website to learn more about Kalyn Risker's organization. Remember, nonprofits can always benefit from monetary support. Large or small, your donation will make a difference.

Timeless Treasure: Aveda Corporation

2009-03-06T17:23:00.004-05:00

Aveda Corporation was born in 1978 from a homemade clove shampoo made by successful cosmetologist Horst Rechelbacher. Horst spent six months in India studying the use of plants and herbs for the purposes of promoting good health and increased lifespan. Thus Aveda products incorparated all that he learned. In the early 1980's Horst began marketing his shampoos and conditioners to hair salons where he earned great success. He eventually began a distribution system for his products in which distributers sold Aveda exclusively in their stores.

Aveda's body care products were set apart from the others because they employed the use of aromatherapy and because they were all natural. Horst was always opposed to the use of synthetics, petroleum bases and animal testing. The Aveda Corporation expanded its business by introducing Aveda Esthetique in the 90's. The Esthetique consisted of over 75 original fragrances that could be used to custom scent already existing Aveda products.

Over time, more and more big name cosmetic companies began marketing natural product lines. Because those companies offered their products to a larger population of vendors, they had more earning potential. It appeared that the Aveda Corporation may have restricted its profits by having a collection of too many different products. As part of its committment to protecting the environment, the company owned a collection of salons, esthetiques and even environmentally friendly clothing lines.

In 1996, Horst decided to take a step back from the everyday hustle and bustle of his growing company. By 1997, the company had been sold to Estee Lauder where, as chairman of the Estee Lauder business unit, he was able to continue to develop products. Today, the company remains profitable and has experienced an increase in growth as Estee Lauder has marketing reach overseas.

Um, What?! Hyaluronic Acid

2009-03-04T17:43:00.002-05:00

Hyaluronic acid is a cosmetic ingredient that has long intrigued me. It first caught my interest when I learned it has outstanding moisturizing/hydration properties and is also produced naturally. The human body has a natural supply of hyaluronic acid (as do all mammals). It is part of the connective tissue beneath the top layer of skin along with collagen and elastin.

Hyaluroic acid is such a great hydrant because it has sponge-like qualities which allows it to hold 1000 times its weight in water. The result is well hydrated skin with a more plump, smooth appearance. Overtime, the body's production of hyaluronic acid begins to decline. The end effect is dull, dry skin that begins to show signs of fine lines and wrinkles. In today's society, women over thirty are on a quest to look ten years younger. Enter hyaluronic acid in anti-aging serums, cellulite creams, skin and lip plumpers, and even skin injections (similar to BOTOX). It can also be introduced in food or as an oral supplement.

Used topically, hyaluronic acid is said to act as a 'protective film' to trap moisture and reduce/prevent evaporation over time. It is not a permanent solution because the molecules are much too large to be absorbed by the skin. In essence, as soon as you bathe, you wash away the desired properties. This is typical of most topical applications which is why you must continue to use a product for 'lasting' results.

One of my concerns about this ingredient is how it is obtained. Because hyaluronic acid is only produced by mammals, you could imagine how many vegans and animal rights activists oppose its use. I was not yet able to pinpoint the exact method of extracting hyaluronic acid from animals, nor am I knowledgeable on what animals are typically used. I did however find a study (research) conducted by a team of japanese scientists that were looking for a way to promote hyaluronic acid synthesis. In other words they wanted to try to force the skin to produce more hyaluronic acid to counter the natural affects of aging. They were successful in making a cosmetic with egg white enzyme hydrolysate (from chicken eggs) that was deemed very safe in its use. I look forward to learning about further advancements in this science.

Learn more about the japanese study

Techie Tuesday: Toner

2009-03-03T16:10:00.002-05:00

There is an on-going debate in the world of beauty about the use of toner. There are some experts that say it is a necessary step in your everyday beauty regimen. Others disagree and of course some are on the fence. Historically toner was used as a secondary cleanser to remove residue from the first cleanser and any makeup left behind. With the advances made in cosmetic science over the years, many experts feel cleansers rinse clear enough to skip the toner step. Quite a few women disagree! After cleansing their faces, they still get dirt on the cotton ball when they swab with a toner. Why would that be? The experts against toner say "Get a better cleanser."

The ingredients in a typical toner are the main source of concern for many experts. Included are astringents and alcohols which are rather irritating to the skin. Because of the drying effect of astringent and alcohol, toner is often only recommended for people with excessively oily skin. Also important to note, quite a few women enjoy the 'tightening' sensation they feel in their skin after the use of a toner; however, this is not really a good thing as it is clearly an indication of drying.

I, for one, am an avid user of toner. I have extremely dry skin and am prone to dry patches (aargh!). I'm constantly fighting with my skin to exfoliate, cleanse and moisturize in a way that isn't overly drying and doesn't cause random breakouts. Its a never ending battle! I use moisturizing toner, which I find is easy on my skin and helps to remove the nasty little flakes left behind after I've cleansed or scrubbed. I don't recommend astringents or alcohol in the use of any personal care products, especially not on the face. To me, the skin on the face is just much to precious!

There is clearly no right or wrong in this issue. Do what is best for your skin. Only you know what that is.

Maintenance Monday: Its OK to be Vain

2009-03-02T11:54:00.002-05:00

Vanity is such a controversial subject. I know it was for me for quite awhile. I have always been accused of being vain by family members and I always thought it was such a negative characteristic. With age and understanding, I have learned to embrace this quality.

By definition vanity is excessive pride in one's appearance, qualities, abilities and achievements. How could someone ever be too proud of who they are?! Vanity is only negative when it seeks to downplay another... but at that point I don't think it's vanity at all, that's insecurity. I had the privilege of meeting a wonderful model and esteem coach about a year ago. She always emphasized not to feel threatened by or compare yourself to anyone else because no one can be you like you can. I've always lived by this philosophy, but it was amazing to me how her coaching changed the attitudes of so many women in that room. They began to exude a confidence that they didn't have when they walked in because it was not hard to believe that she was right.

I believe that when you care about your appearance, qualities, abilities and achievements, it encourages you to always do more to be better. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that! So today I challenge you to be vain and embrace it wholeheartedly. Be who you are and do it well... and while you're at it, show someone else how to do it too.

I have a confession...

2009-02-28T11:09:00.002-05:00

Monday I proposed that we dedicate 21 days to establish new habits/behavior that would have a positive affect on our inner beauty. If you recall, I emphasized that one slip up resets the 21 days. I chose to make 4 changes. Unfortunately, I have slipped up on 2 of them. The other two haven't been tested yet. They are pretty much a package deal so I'm back to Day 1 of my 21 day challenge!

The key to this challenge is to make a conscious effort. The only way I'm going to be successful at this is if I become more mindful of my behavior. I must be proactive not reactive (if that's a word). This exercise is applicable to all areas of life, making it personal is just practice for applying it to more critical situations.

Today is my last Day 1! No excuses!

Fresh Idea: Frankincense

2009-02-27T10:27:00.003-05:00

I went on a "sniff trip" Monday morning in search of some oils to complete a client's project. While I was sniffing-- trying to make a decision on what combination I thought would be best to suit her needs-- I came across a bottle of frankincense oil. I must admit, I never smelled frankincense before that day. I was always turned off by its description, thinking that it would make my creations smell like incense. I can't stand that spicy/earthy smell that I think all incense have! So just out of pure curiosity I took a whiff... and oh let me tell you I was soooooo pleasantly surprised! One sniff made me smell it again.... and again... and again. It didn't smell like incense at all!!!

Its a known fact that smell is the sense most closely linked to memory. Frankincense brought back memories of my childhood summers spent at bible camp. How ironic! Frankincense was used to adorn baby Jesus at birth and it reminds me of the times in my childhood when I felt closest to Him. My fondest memories are from bible camp. I made friends there to last a lifetime... in fact that's where I met my honey :-).

At camp there was no television, no radio, cell phones or pagers... just a bunch of kids running free on the grounds participating in fun activities and having bible study. It was a week of bliss where you forgot about sirens and smog and whatever problems you had at home. There was nothing for your little heart to worry about. Camp made such an impact on all of us that we would anticipate that one week in the summer all year long.

In honor of this priceless memory, I'm going to make myself a fragrance centered around the wonderful smell of frankincense. Maybe in my creative journey I'll happen upon some other scents that remind me of that sacred place. [sigh]

Timeless Treasure: Shiseido

2009-02-26T09:54:00.002-05:00

Shiseido Company, Limited is a 137 year old timeless treasure founded in Tokyo by Yushin Fukuhara (a former pharmacist). The original objective of this family owned company was to be Japan's first western-style pharmacy. The company began to dabble in cosmetics during the transition of the japanese feminine appearance; while some women still wore the ancient makeup (white faces and stylized eyebrows) many were making the transition to the look of western women (the way we wear makeup as Americans).

Shiseido expanded the scope of its business by offering franchise opportunities outside of the normal reach of the company. Its early success was due largely to customer loyalty which was encouraged by high quality products and personalized service. Similar to the way the Tokyo store was tailored to a specific market, the franchises were also. The franchise stores also began to offer mail-order services. The company had such a solid foundation that it was not rocked by World Wars or Depression.

Overtime, of course, the company image became dated. The loyal customers grew old and the new youthful generation of consumers were not wowed by the Shiseido brand. The response was to diversify the brand and its stores. While some stores carried cosmetics, other stores carried youth fashions, home goods, or fitness aids. The company also introduced a line tailored to the needs of its older customers. Diversification has proven to be the key to this company's staying power because it can target several markets simultaneously.

This multi-faceted company has been global for decades and continues to hold a top spot among international cosmetic companies. I'm sure this company will survive for centuries to come.

Um, What?! Panthenol

2009-02-25T12:27:00.003-05:00

I've often seen panthenol in the ingredients of shampoos, conditioners and moisturizing facial products. Panthenol can be classified as a humectant, emollient and moisturizer. A humectant draws water to a surface (for our purposes hair and skin) thus increasing hydration. An emollient makes skin soft and supple and generally results in a soothing sensation.

Panthenol easily binds to the hair follicle and seals the surface which increases shine (Remember the post about shine and scatter?). This is the ingredient that Pantene capitalizes on... I've seen it in every one of their products that I've tried (thats almost all of them! I love Pantene). In hair treatments it is used in a concentration of 0.1-1%. The skin can absorb panthenol rather easily and effectively. It can be used to treat sunburn, minor burns and certain skin conditions. I found it in my moisturizing toner (I swear by toner!).

I guess after all that I should tell you guys exactly what it is. Panthenol is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (also known as vitamin B5!). In lay-man's terms, a piece of the B5 chemistry has been replaced with an alcohol. So they're kind of like cousins. Panthenol has passed the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) for safety in concentrations up to 25%. I haven't read any negative press about this ingredient, but if I find any, rest assured I'll report it.

Techie Tuesday: Gone Wrong!

2009-02-24T19:41:00.004-05:00

Ok... my idea for today has gone horribly wrong! Well, I take that back. Just the result of my research is not what I expected. I heard [read] about a method of relaxing [or texturizing] hair that is chemical free. Of course that peaked my interest. So my first thought was "How does that work?!"

What I found is that it is chemical free [not according to my standards]... but I think it is more appropriately classified as no-lye. The company [Phyto] claims the active ingredients in their Phytorelaxer are derived from egg and soya. How so? Those ingredients are waaaaay at the bottom of the list! I guess that doesn't really matter... I did however find guanidine carbonate in the ingredients list. Guanidine carbonate is derived from mushroom salts. It is listed in other no-lye relaxer treatments, but I have never seen it stand alone. It is usually accompanied by some sort of hydroxide (calcium hydroxide for example). Knowing this, I am skeptical about how this relaxer can be effective without the aid of some other base...

In defense of the product [this was not meant to be a product review... see horribly wrong!] it has received rave reviews by those who use it. It has a reputation of being much gentler and more nourishing than the more widely known relaxers. This may be due to all the extra steps included in the kit, but who really cares... it works right?!

Maintenance Monday: 21 Days

2009-02-23T15:53:00.002-05:00

"Beauty is how you feel inside, and it reflects in your eyes. It is not something physical"
--Sophia Loren

I agree with Sophia.... except I must admit oftentimes looking good on the outside helps me feel better inside. That pretty much explains why I am so passionate about personal care products. I know I've talked alot about perfecting that inner beauty. I think it is a task that is never quite complete. You can always do more to make yourself a better person; that is beautiful in itself. A big part of being successful in life is having goals... why not start from within?

Decide today on 3 to 5 things that you think would contribute to the growth of your personality, intellect and self esteem. I read in If It Is To Be, It's Up To Me by Thomas B. Smith that it takes 21 days to break bad habits and establish new ones. [My parents taught this principle to me first but I wanted to give you a solid reference.] So let today be the start of your 21 days. Concentrate on the things you decided you want to work on and do your very best. Don't slip up!!! If you get off track you have to start the 21 days all over. Think of it like a game and give yourself a positive incentive... when you succeed [notice I said WHEN, positive thinking goes a long way] reward yourself with a new pair of shoes or a trip to Coldstone Creamery (yummmm!)... anything to say to yourself "Well done honey!"

I'm 100% sure you will find this to be a productive excercise. I'd love to hear the success stories! Mark your calendars and begin your 21 day journey.

Techie Tuesday on Saturday: Parabens... Why Care?

2009-02-21T19:03:00.003-05:00

I think I can keep this short and sweet. In recent years there has been a big fuss made about parabens in cosmetic applications. So what's it all about? Parabens are preservatives used to protect your personal care products from the growth of harmful microorganisms. Most personal care products have water as one of the main ingredients. Any product that contains water can grow some really nasty stuff so preservatives are a must. Sidebar-- while I'm an advocate and producer of natural personal care products, I firmly believe in the use of some sort of preservative system. I do not think it is safe to sell natural products without preservatives because the average consumer does not consider expiration dates.-- The most commonly used parabens are: methylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben. They are usually used together to minimize the amount of preservatives necessary to achieve the same end result.

Parabens have been confirmed to be safe by both the FDA and the Cosmetic Ingredients Review expert panel in the concentrations used (0.01-0.3%). The problem is parabens have been found in the breast tissue of breast cancer patients. So the premise is; because parabens are in breast cancer tissue, parabens must cause breast cancer.... not necessarily true. In the studies conducted, normal breast tissue was not tested for the presence of parabens. So who knows, they may exist naturally! Parabens also exhibit estrogen like behavior. Estrogen activity has been linked to the occurance of breast cancer. However, parabens have much lower estrogen levels than what is naturally found in the human body.

Armed with this info, its now up to you to decide if you believe the hype. As a scientist, research carries a whole lot of weight to me. Personally, I am not alarmed by the 'possibility' of parabens causing breast cancer... but just in case, you won't find those preservatives in my line of products.

Fresh Idea Friday: PINK

2009-02-20T22:02:00.003-05:00

One of the many objectives of my company is to make charitable contributions to organizations that work to improve the overall health and well being of women. One of the charities I chose to support is the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation. In honor of this cause, I will create a series in my line dedicated to breast cancer awareness.

The inspiration for the PINK scent stems from the very popular pink ribbon. The pink ribbon represents more than a fight for breast health to me. I see it as a symbol of a woman's shining glory during times of adversity, femininity and strength, perseverance and love. Fighting the disease that attacks the very essence of a woman, her most feminine attribute, is quite a glamorous task. I say that because a glam woman is a strong woman. She doesn't lose herself in her sufferings and everything she experiences makes her a better woman. And to top all of that off, some women even leave the ordeal with a brand new pair of perky, pretty boobies! (I think we all wish for that at some point or another).

The rhinestone pink ribbon represents the glam breast cancer survivor. The feisty, jazzy little thing that loves to play in makeup and wear expensive perfume. That gorgeous woman who didn't let breast cancer take her down wears this ribbon as a badge of honor. And those who lost a loved one to the disease wear it as a reminder of that pretty lady who will forever be a resident in their hearts...

I joined the fight because I believe there is hope for healing. One day, breast cancer patients will no longer have to weigh the odds... survival will be an absolute. I'll toast to that!

Timeless Treasure: AMBI

2009-02-19T17:35:00.004-05:00

Now owned by Johnson & Johnson, this 43 year old cosmetic line has passed the test of time. AMBI skincare products are made specifically for (multi-cultural) women of color. The products are designed to eliminate dark imperfections, even skin-tone and improve the overall health of pigmented skin. The main products-- fade creams and beauty bars-- were staples in the African American household for decades.

When Johnson & Johnson bought the brand in 2004, they began the 2 year quest to update the product image and improve the product formula. The key to success was to conduct an extensive survey of the target market so that the re-formulated products addressed specific issues. Based on this study, AMBI emerged with three successful products. To further increase the recognition and success of the brand, Johnson & Johnson reshelved the AMBI products so that they are now situated among the general skin care products as opposed to ethnic products.

I think the biggest contributor to the AMBI brand success is their dedication to educating the consumer and being a 'skin care advisor'. AMBI travels to various multi-cultural family oriented events with a crew of aestheticians to give one on one skin care consultations. Let's give a hand to a company that is hands on!

Techie Tuesday Postponed

2009-02-18T13:51:00.002-05:00

I was in the streets yesterday trying to take care of some necessary business so I totally missed posting on Techie Tuesday. My plan is to get it done this weekend so that you still get your weekly dose of cosmetic science.

I am glad to report that the company name is now officially registered and website building will begin shortly. The company is set to launch April 1, 2009 and I am beyond excited about it! I'm hoping to be able to throw a really nice launch party. I'm working out the particulars as we speak.

Thank you for all the love and support I have received in the process of making my dreams reality.

Um, What?! Wednesday: PPG Stearyl Ether

2009-02-18T13:12:00.003-05:00

Polypropylene glycol stearyl ether is mainly found in 'moisturizing' personal care products. It is written as PPG-11 or PPG-15 stearyl ether in the ingredients lists. This ingredient is made by the reaction between propylene oxide and stearyl alcohol. Stearyl alcohols come from animal fats and oils (vegans beware!). The 11 or 15 designation is based on the 'units' of propylene glycol produced in the reaction.

PPG-11/15 stearyl ethers are known lubricants meant to give the skin a moisturized look and feel. They are also classified as skin conditioning agents and emollients. The chemicals have been deemed safe at the concentrations typical of most cosmetic applications they are found in. Even concentrated, these chemicals did not irritate the eyes. A related chemical, PPG butyl ether was found to be slightly irritating to the eyes and skin. It is absorbed very slowly-if at all- into the digestive tract where it is easily metabolized and eliminated as waste in the urine.

As time progresses and my knowledge increases, I'm becoming more compelled to make the switch to all natural personal care products. I currently use over the counter products, all of which contain the ingredients I've reviewed thus far. I have not experienced any known irritation to the products I use daily and I am satisfied (most of the time) with the results--- I have very tempermental skin! I just can't help but wonder what long term effects my drug of choice may be having on my well-being. Think about it for yourself.

Maintenance Monday: Its All About Attitude!

2009-02-16T12:19:00.002-05:00

We've all heard this before... attitude is everything. But what does that really mean? Take an inventory of events and circumstances in your life. What was your attitude before and after those occurred? Chances are when something positive happens a positive attitude was present before and after. The same applies to negative situations. I have found that when I look for the positive in undesirable circumstances, I get positive outcomes. A lot of times it is easier said than done. It may take me quite awhile to see what good can come from unfortunate events. But, no matter what, I'm always actively looking for a way to turn the situation around.

Because of my positive outlook (attitude), I have reached monumental heights in my life. I have achieved so many of my goals and learned from every experience, good or bad. I have written all of this in hopes of being an inspiration to other women. Looking beautiful is great... and it makes an impact on how you feel. But to feel even better about yourself you have to indulge in positive things. Making the commitment to use every moment in your life for the betterment of yourself will go a long way in making your dreams come true. Decide what you want out of life and start taking steps toward those goals. There will always be bumps in the road, but embrace them and make the most of their outcome. When you feel good about yourself, it irradiates from the inside out. How beautiful is that?!

Small World

2009-02-14T10:52:00.002-05:00

Happy Valentine's Day! Enough with the mushy stuff...

I recently subscribed to a blog by Seth Godin. I still haven't figured out exactly what the overall purpose of his blog is, but he has some interesting ideas and advice. This morning I revisited a post where he proposes the idea of making the world smaller so you can conquer it. The premise is that the world is so profound that taking it over can be an overwhelming thought and an even more impossible task; instead concentrate on one segment of it and take that by storm.

This post came at such a good time for me. In developing my company I have big dreams and ideas. I often have sleepless nights because I can't seem to turn my brain off. While I still plan to make my company a world treasure, I think its important that I take baby [Hughey] steps to get to my ultimate goal. For now, I am dedicated to offering my products nationally via the website (coming soon) and providing my service locally. By establishing my brand in the local market, I am sure to attract attention nationally and eventually on the international level. Of course I know I have to be active and pro-active in reaching my goals, but by cutting one slice of the pie at a time, my goals are more easily measurable and attainable.

I hope you take this as food for thought in your own endeavors. Don't be overwhelmed by your dreams, embrace them and make them happen!

Spread the love today!!!

Fresh Idea Friday: It Just Spoke To Me!

2009-02-13T18:09:00.003-05:00

I was thumbing through my January issue of Styleline (Metro Detroit) and I came across this chair. It just spoke to me! I have a tendency to be drawn to odd pieces. Something about this chair is classic and conservative yet funky and fresh. As you already know, I draw inspiration from all sorts of different sources. This is the flavor of the day.

The bright colors offer a grand contrast against the sterile white background... and the print is a combination of tropical jungle and paisley?! Whatever it is I love it. So what scent did it inspire? Maybe a floral base with citrus and berry top notes... it will definitely be something fun, feminine and flirty but sophisticated enough for the professional glam woman!

The scent inspired by this crazy looking chair will be included in the signature series of my company. Look for it!

Oh, by the way.... if you love this chair like I do, you can find it at Pottery Barn (Brooks Slipcover Chair in Bettina) for a cool $629-829.

Timeless Treasures Thursday: Coty, Inc

2009-02-12T13:05:00.007-05:00

Coty was never a household name for me until I began my hunt for the perfect cosmetic company to work for. Now that I am developing my own company, I wanted to know what led to the success of Coty, Inc. Coty, Inc was founded in 1904 (wow! talk about timeless treasure!) by a Corsican by the name of Francois Spoturno-- the name a spin off from his mother's maiden name Coti. A company of humble beginnings, Spoturno built his first makeshift laboratory in his flat. After just four years of marketing his first fragrance, he was profitable enough to open a factory. With the new factory also came a new face powder. Coty, Inc catered to the most wealthy patrons, but also offered smaller sizes of his products at prices a young Parisian girl could afford.

Coty, Inc continued to introduce new products, and was the first to manufacture a series of products in the same scent (great idea, its still widely used). The company proved to be ahead of rhe pack not only in product development but in the containers and packaging it used as well. Over the years the company has changed hands several times due to death and retirement, but it is still a fierce competitor in the industry. Coty, Inc is now a subsidiary of Joh. A. Benckiser GmbH. Notable brands include: Lady Stetson, Rimmel and Calgon.

To read more on the history of Coty, Inc follow the link in my References section.

Um, What?! Wednesday: The Laureth/Lauryl Sulfates

2009-02-11T13:18:00.005-05:00

If you're obsessed with reading the ingredients lists on the back of your personal care products like I am, then you've definitely come across the Laureth/Lauryl Sulfates. Sodium/Ammonium Laureth/Lauryl Sulfates (I know it looks tricky, bear with me) are surfactants. They are commonly found in shampoo, body wash, shower gel and soap usually at the top of the ingredients list. The purpose of a surfactant is to remove oil and dirt from the skin and hair.

These ingredients are known skin/eye irritants when used in concentrations of 2% or higher. Most of the products we use have a concentration of atleast 20%. The lauryl sulfates have been proven to make significant changes to the epidermal layer of the skin and also damage the hair follicle. On the bright side, none of these ingredients have been known to cause cancer, but the verdict is still out. Ultimately, these chemicals have been deemed safe for cosmetic use.

So that's the science, tried and true... but I must say, I've never experienced any irritation from the products I use and my hair is quite healthy. When the weather breaks (spring where are you?) I'm going to make the switch to all natural hair care developed by yours truly. Look for a series related to that topic... :-)

Techie Tuesday: Creating Shine

2009-02-10T11:51:00.003-05:00

What woman doesn't want skin that glows or hair that shines? Exactly. The geniuses in cosmetic science are constantly working to provide products that give your face that dewy, youthful glow or "hair so healthy, it shines". Fortunately, cosmetic scientists are highly educated in the fields of chemistry, biology and physics. We know what your skin and hair needs, the particulars about how light is reflected and exactly what ingredients will produce the end effect. Here's the science in a nutshell...

In order to create shine, the surface in question must be great at reflecting light. So in the lab, cosmetics are made with ingredients that have a large flat surface area (for optimal light reflection) that will rest on the skin or coat the cuticle layer of the hair. There are some simple things you can do at home to help out. Product build up, dirty skin and clogged pores cause scatter--- light bouncing off a surface all willy nilly--- which results in the appearance of dull skin and hair.

To improve the appearance of your skin, exfoliate once a week. Include it in your Sunday ritual so that you start the week looking gorgeous darling!!!! For your face, follow up with a toner and moisturizer suitable for your skin type. For your body, use your usual lotion, cream, or body butter.... in the winter months you may want to mix in a little light oil.

Now for the hair... shampoo and deep condition your hair once a week. This is imperative for healthy hair. Dirty hair and scraggly ends are sure to cause scatter. Use cool water for your final rinse. This will help smooth the cuticle layer and encourage natural oil production from the scalp. Use a blow dryer or a flat iron as a final step to smoothing the cuticle layer. You may or may not see instant results, but over time your hair will be light, fluffy and shiny.

Here's to the glam life!

To read more about the technical side of scatter and shine follow the link to Cosmetiscope.

Maintenance Monday: Create Rituals

2009-02-09T11:04:00.005-05:00

Happy Monday!!!! This morning I began reading a wonderful book [Living a Beautiful Life by Alexandra Stoddard] that is ultimately a guide to living a fulfilling life. The book focuses on making small changes in your day to day life that makes necessary tasks enjoyable. The first chapter of the book discusses creating rituals for things that you do anyway ie bathing, sleeping, eating etc.

Let's take baby steps... most of us already have a bathing ritual. We take showers or bubble baths with our favorite body wash, then slather on the best lotion for our skin right? But is the bathroom esthetically pleasing? Are our towels super big and plush? Do we have spa quality robes and slippers to put on when we get out?

My suggestion: add a little beauty to your bathing ritual. Pick a color scheme that makes you feel good when you're in the room. Add a beautiful painting or a vase. Scented candles make a big difference in the way you feel about your environment. Try some aromatherapy candles which are designed to induce specific feelings. Basically, turn your bathroom into your at home spa. A little pampering goes a long way to improving the way you feel about yourself. Take a little time for you.

Decide on a ritual today and let the beauty begin! Have a wonderful week.

Eeeek!!!!

2009-02-07T12:02:00.002-05:00

I'm beyond excited!!!! My plans for my cosmetic company are finally coming together... I've been a stay at home mom for a few months now so I've had more time to focus and get it together. Its almost time for me to purchase a hot new pair of "I'm about my business" pumps!!! Any suggestions?

I still cannot release the name of the company or any of the particulars, but rest assured that will be coming soon. I plan to launch with a giveaway worth about $500. It will be a big deal! So make sure you check in daily.

Ok, so I'm in the process of making final decisions about product offerings, pricing and location. I should have a whole lot more to tell you all by next Saturday. In the meantime, I'll continue to post daily. Here's the weekly rundown:

Maintenance Monday--- What better way to start your week than with a little encouragement and a few strokes to your ego. Every Monday, expect a post that will push you to give yourself a little TLC and to encourage you to indulge in your vanity (every woman has atleast a little, its ok!)

Techie Tuesday--- This will be about about the latest in Cosmetic Science... you gotta know what to expect from your favorite brands right?

Um, What?! Wednesday--- Spotlight on one long and hard to pronounce ingredient in your personal care products... You'll get the good, the bad and the ugly!

Timeless Treasures Thursday--- A weekly moment in history discussing the evolution of big time cosmetic companies... wouldn't you like to know how it all started? I would!

Fresh Idea Friday--- Find out about my current inspiration and what direction it may lead me... pretty interesting I'd say, but you be the judge!

Weekends are a free for all. Got an idea? Send me an email!

Enjoy!

In Black and White

2009-02-06T17:36:00.007-05:00

My inspiration for my cosmetic line comes from just about everything; jewelry, fashion, furniture, nature, colors--- you get the picture. Today I'm focused on a timeless fashion staple... black and white. I've had a thing for this color scheme for about 7 years now... I'm so fortunate that it never goes out of style! At any rate, I'm in search of some interesting perfume and/or apothecary bottles and I thought "how classy would a black and white bottle be?!" So armed with inspiration from two very fashionable dresses, I began my hunt for some haute fragrance bottles. TaDaaaaa!!!!

I think the best way to compliment such a straight forward look is to soften it with feminine makeup (no lipstick, just gloss or stain) and a light fragrance-- something floral or citrus. Let's face it, when wearing the most contrasting color scheme you're commanding enough attention!!!

Lady Lauder

2009-02-05T12:42:00.003-05:00

In my quest to launch my cosmetic company, I thought it necessary to learn how the most successful companies came to be. So... every friday we will explore the big names in beauty. I chose to start with Estee Lauder because it is timeless, well noted and one of the first names that comes to mind in fine cosmetics and fragrances. The woman behind this company was such a power house! And let me be the first to tell you I'm all about the ambitious woman!

The inception of this company stemmed from a cream made by the uncle of Josephine Esther Mentzer (Estee Lauder). In 1944 Lady Lauder began pushing her product line in New York salons and small scale department stores and soon enough she landed counter space in Saks Fifth Ave. She personally traveled the country training her staff in the proper way to relate to customers and sell the products; teaching them her philosophy. Estee Lauder was the first company to offer free samples as a marketing strategy; one that I think is ingenious and truly necessary. Over the years, Mrs. Lauder's desire to beautify women and drive to succeed led to the inclusion of perfumery and a host of other cosmetic companies under the Estee Lauder umbrella [Clinique, Prescriptives, Origins to name a few]. Estee Lauder truly left a legacy for her family, aspiring cosmetic scientists and entrepreneurs worldwide.

There are so many parallels between Lady Lauder and myself that after reading her story I am even more inspired, excited and encouraged to keep moving closer to my dreams.

Follow the link in my References list to learn more about Estee Lauder, the lady and the legend.

Um, What?! Wednesday

2009-02-04T11:44:00.004-05:00

This is the very first Um, What?! Wednesday! Every Wednesday I'm going to break down one ingredient commonly found in personal care products; giving you the good, the bad and the ugly. Today its all about EDTA, my absolute favorite chemical (don't ask me why, I'm a nerd!). Here are the facts:

EDTA and its salts-- anything listed that has EDTA somewhere in the name-- is found in just about all skin care treatments including lotions, creams, body wash, soap, shampoos and conditioners. Its official chemical name is (insert deep breath here) ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid. Its defining quality is the ability to bind metal ions. Popular applications in your personal care products are preservative and foaming/lather agent. As a preservative it prevents deterioration of the product, protects the fragrance, and prevents rancidity (common in products whose ingredients include water). It combines with metals such as calcium, magnesium and iron to achieve foam or lather. EDTA also keeps metals from being deposited on your hair, skin and scalp (cleanliness is of utmost importance right?).

Not only is this chemical known for getting the job done, its also been deemed safe by the FDA for food and cosmetic applications. That's right, its safe enough to eat!!!! In reference to cosmetic and personal care applications, it is not a skin irritant or sensitizer, nor is it a carcinogen (won't cause cancer). It results in very little skin penetration, so if found in your blood stream, its only in trace amounts.

I absolutely love this chemical!!!! See you next Wednesday!

Eating Pretty

2009-02-03T14:08:00.003-05:00

If a poll was taken of all my friends and family, it would reveal that I like to eat just as much as I like to 'get pretty'. Why not make it a package deal? I've found that certain staples in my diet actually work wonders for my skin. Here's why:

First and most important... I stay away from fast food. Of course I grab a burger every once in awhile, but home cooking has greater appeal to my appetite. Besides its more economical to cook, the money I save on food can be used to buy clothes and shoes. ;-) Whole foods (fruits, vegetables, nuts and berries) are rich in vitamins and minerals, many of which your body does not produce on its own.

Vitamin A prevents dry, flaky skin and helps maintain epithelial tissue (covers organs/organisms- your skin). Cantaloupe, Papaya and other citrus fruits contain Vitamin A. Pro-vitamin A (beta-carotene) protects your skin from sun damage and prevents wrinkling and age spots. Its like sunscreen from the inside out! Dark skin on fruits and vegetables is an indication of the presence of beta-carotene.

The same foods that have a high content of Vitamin A usually have a good amount of Vitamin C as well. Vitamin C is not just good for your immune system; it works wonders for your skin too! It is an anti-oxidant that improves skin cell turnover (younger cells=younger skin) and the formation of collagen. Collagen is responsible for skin elasticity and firmness which results in a more youthful appearance. Similarly, Vitamin E reduces the production of collagenase (anti-collagen) which causes skin sagging and wrinkles. Nuts and leafy green vegetables are a good source of Vitamin E. Add some fish and whole grains to your diet to aid in normal oil production thanks to the Vitamin B they contain. And for you notorious tea sippers; switch to green tea which speeds up the skin cycle and reverses aging.

So my suggested pretty eating plan is-- have a fruit salad for breakfast (use fruit that is in season) Organic is good too I guess... I'm not an organic fanatic. For a snack, pop some nuts and have a cup of green tea. Have a green salad for lunch. And finally have fish for dinner a couple times a week--- try salmon, trout and tuna... but be careful too much fish can lead to mercury poisoning.

While I love playing in my makeup on occasion, natural beauty is very important to me... so here's to eating pretty!!! Tell me how it works for you.

Feathers, Fragrance and Fashionistas!

2009-02-02T19:45:00.005-05:00

From the runway to the streets, feathers are a hot item for fashionistas worldwide! Fashion forecasters predict this trend is going to carry on well into the spring/summer season. The look is neutral and romantic; more for the elegant and classy... not quite for the bold and the flashy. I would however love to see how someone more adventurous with their style would incorporate a smashing feather piece.

This trend caught my eye and got my wheels turning to create a fragrance from matched inspiration. I imagine a rich and smooth scent with a sweet vanilla and nutty vetiver base, blended with soft woody undertones and a touch of creamy coconut.

Its all just melting together wonderfully in my mind... now to make it work in The Glam Laboratory!

What "Green" Really Means...

2009-02-01T19:16:00.003-05:00

I stumbled upon an article in an issue of Cosmetiscope-- a journal for cosmetic scientists-- detailing what 'green' means in the cosmetic industry. What I once thought to be no more than an eco-fad has quickly become quite important to a great majority internationally. Here's what I learned...

In order to be considered green the cosmetic manufacturer must make an effort to prevent waste. Generally chemical waste is detrimental to the environment so you can see why this would be important. A few other requirements are linked to preventing or reducing waste, so I'll discuss them now. Any substance that is used for the sole purpose of making a reaction work has to be renewable. It cannot be 'used up' in the process and it cannot be inactive when the process is complete. Similarly, green processes minimize the creation of side products that cannot be used in other applications. In addition, green processes make use of what I would call personal assistants which speed up the reaction and minimize the amount of starting material needed.

Next on the chopping block-- unnecessary chemicals. All the ingredients tossed into the mixing bowl have to be needed for effective application of the product. In other words, all those 15-35 letter ingredients that fascinate me so much (nerdy I know!) have to be in there for a darn good reason! Additionally, a fantastically green product serves its purpose and then calls it quits leaving no chemical scars on our blessed environment. And just for good measure, a real-time pollution prevention tool should be in place. Toxicity and risk of chemical disaster-- like explosions, fires, gas leaks (no big deal, right?) are kept to a minimum.

And with all the talk about energy conservation locally and on capital hill, its no mystery why the cosmetic industry would strive to be particular about the energy use in their chemical processes.

Stay tuned to see how well your cosmetic company of choice is doing with the transition!

The Unfading Beauty

2009-02-01T18:28:00.003-05:00

In the spirit of promoting female self esteem, I thought it would be appropriate to debut The Glam Laboratory with a poem that captures the very essence of beauty.

THE UNFADING BEAUTY
by Thomas Carew

He that loves a rosy cheek,
Or a coral lip admires,
Or from star-like eyes doth seek
Fuel to maintain his fires:
As Old Time makes these decay,
So his flames must fade away.

But a smooth and steadfast mind,
Gentle thoughts and calm desires,
Hearts with equal love combined,
Kindle never-dying fires,
Where these are not, I despise
Lovely cheeks or lips or eyes.

There is more to beauty than meets the eye Sure we love getting all dolled up with our skin care rituals, perfect hair products and the most feminine nail color we can find; but whats underneath all that? Its important that we glam up the inside as well as the outside. So... pick up a book, take a class, champion a cause-- all while being the most glamorous you can be. For physical beauty inevitably fades, but authentic beauty is forever.