The Case For Exfoliation

As I am sure you know by now, my skin is very important to me. Its also rather temperamental! I have extremely dry skin which tends to flake and gets worse depending on the weather. I don't just mean a change in season... I mean if its 75 degrees today and then tomorrow its 52 degrees my skin will instantly be a flaky, dry mess! Living in Michigan I have plenty of sucky skin days. I have always used an exfoliant for my face, but just began daily full body exfoliation within the last six months. Here's my case for exfoliation for any skin type.

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the outer layer of the skin (epidermis). Skin cells regenerate every day in the lower layer of the skin (dermis). In order for the young skin cells to show there brilliance the old skin cells that make our skin rough, dry and dull need to be removed. For dry skin types, dead skin cells accumulate and make the skin look and feel even more dry. They also prevent moisture from penetrating the pores. For oily skin types, dead skin cells get trapped in the oil naturally produced by your skin and clog the pores. This causes the skin to not only appear dull but also results in breakouts. Exfoliation becomes more important as we age because the natural process of cell turnover slows down.

There are two types of exfoliation: Mechanical and Chemical. Mechanical exfoliation uses various abrasives to physically remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface. Daily mechanical exfoliation should be limited to gentle exfoliants like finely ground fruit seeds, fine sugar/salt, etc. A more abrasive exfoliant like medium to coarse salt/sugar, jojoba beads and whole fruit seeds (like grape and strawberry seeds) can be used 1-2 times per week to really refresh the skin.

Chemical exfoliation employs alphahydroxy acids (AHA's), betahydroxy acids (BHA's)and enzymes to loosen the "glue" that holds dead skin cells together and sloughs them away. Citrus fruits such as lemons, tomatoes, grapefruit, oranges and lime contain natural chemicals (AHA's and BHA's, etc) that exfoliate without the need for rubbing or scrubbing. Chemical exfoliation should be used sparingly and in safe concentrations. Even natural chemicals can be way too strong for use on the skin (especially sensitive skin).

Most natural exfoliants are also rich in vitamins and minerals which is great for healthy skin. Any exfoliating treatment should be followed by a good moisturizer. After proper exfoliation, the skin can more easily absorb a moisturizer because it has been wiped clean of debris and the pores are open.

The second step in the Envie Body Care Systeme is our Silkening Body Polish which is a combination of exfoliants and a moisturizer. Our body polish is suitable for daily use as it contains a fine mechanical exfoliant (crushed walnut shells) and a gentle chemical exfoliant (Bamboo extract). The body polish is followed by our Luxury Shower Gel which is infused with Jojoba Oil and our Conditioning Body Butter Creme with Shea butter, Cocoa Butter, Marajuca, Avocado, Pumpkin Seed and Jojoba Oils.

Exfoliation is key for healthy, glowing, radiant skin... and what's more glam than that?!

Learn more about Envie and buy our products HERE

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Evolution of a Woman; Growth of a Brand

Not too long ago I was having a conversation with my mom that really put some things in perspective. Just looking back at my life; the things I've done, what I've learned and what I've always wanted to do, I realized that I have been moving towards my life purpose everyday. Sometimes crawling, sometimes walking and other times running. When you're living in your purpose, everything comes together and you begin to see that the cliche "Everything happens for a reason" is really true.

I fell in love with chemistry in high school and took all the chemistry classes I could fit in my schedule. I'm a nerd, I know! But I'm also a glam girl. So I paired my love of chemistry and my infatuation with healthy skin and hair to choose the perfect career.

Envie began to take shape in my freshman year of college. There was a really basic assignment to give a quick speech about your career choice. I kept it short, but it was thorough... I made posters with pictures of my imaginary products, wrote product descriptions and an ad campaign. When I look back that was probably a really dorky thing to do, but that was me-- putting my dreams on paper and sharing them with everyone who was [forced] to listen.

I built the Envie brand to represent me. Everything from the name to the fundamental mission of Envie is about who I am. Envie (on-vee-ay) is the french translation for desire-- a spin off of my name Desiree. I believe in vanity. When women care for their outer selves it makes a difference in the way they feel on the inside. Their confidence builds and they are thus able to achieve more. I believe in health. Our bodies need more than a quick fix or concealer; our skin needs nutrition to reach its greatest potential. I believe in luxury. Everyone should have the opportunity to enjoy the finer things-- Envie is among them. I believe in personal growth and development thus Envie seeks out women's organizations to aid in their missions. I believe in giving back via my time, efforts, money and love.

I don't represent my brand. My brand represents me. Get to know Envie.
Visit our Pre-Launch site HERE

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Envie Pre-Launch

As you all know, I have been working tirelessly on launching my line of bath and body products. As with any venture I have faced some road blocks, but I trudge on! So today I am pleased to share that we have positioned ourselves for a Pre-Launch. We still have a short way to go before the official launch of Envie Bath and Body, but we saw no reason why we couldn't offer you just a little bit of the good stuff.

The Pre-Launch was inspired by the overwhelming feedback that we received after hosting a few sampling events. You were ready to buy and who are we to deny you the chance! So this Pre-Launch is nothing fancy; just a temporary site for you to buy our products before their official release. And to show our appreciation, we're offering some pretty deep discounts.

There are 3 campaigns scheduled for the Pre-Launch, maybe more. Your response will determine how long we keep the good stuff coming!

The first campaign begins at midnight Monday, June 15, 2009 and will run for ONE WEEK ONLY!

Here's what we're offering:

The Envie Body Care Systeme-- Our unique product grouping was specially designed to nourish, condition and soften your skin. This system consists of four products that are all natural and naturally scented with our own essential oil blends. The featured products are: Luxury Bubble Bath, Silkening Body Polish, Luxury Shower Gel and Conditioning Body Butter Creme. Purchase the entire systeme or individual items. By using the complete Body Care Systeme your skin will absorb all of these wonderful nutrients:

Linoleic acid

Oleic acid

Palmitic acid

Stearic acid

Linolenic acid

Vitamins A, B1, B2, B5 (Panthothenic acid), D, E, C and K

Minerals

Silica

Protein

Lecithin

We can't wait to serve you! Here's to the Glam Life!

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Natural vs Synthetic: A Chemist's Perspective

The craze to "go green" and buy "organic" and "natural" is growing exponentially. The proponents of "natural" speak highly of the benefits and tend to leave out the possible risks, while the big name cosmetic chemists will tell you there is no harm in using synthetics. So, I'm offering my unbiased perspective as a cosmetic chemist that has developed a natural bath and body product line. I'll keep it short.

If you flip through the previous posts you'll find that I have defined quite a few of the typical ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products. As a chemist, I have a healthy respect for chemicals; they serve their purpose and most are harmless in the concentrations used. What synthetics lack is the nutritive benefits that "natural" ingredients have. I refer to natural in quotations for two reasons. 1) There is no FDA standard for what is considered natural. Anyone can make the claim whether its true or not. 2) Chemicals are "natural" too! Every element in the periodic table comes from the earth. Those elements come together to make both natural and synthetic ingredients alike.

There are two problems with synthetics that I consider significant. The first problem relates more to vanity than anything else. Synthetic ingredients (silicone oils for example) cannot be absorbed by the skin. They sit on top of the skin forming a protective barrier (good), but don't provide any health benefits. The second problem I find with synthetics is that the chemicals end up in our water supply and reek havoc on our environment and ecosystem. They also increase air pollution. With natural ingredients, you give your skin vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, alpha hydroxy acids, etc; a lot of which your body cannot produce on its own. Going natural means less pollution, better air quality (indoor and outdoor), less chemicals in the water run-off and higher profitability to farmers-- local, nationwide and global.

Synthetic ingredients are often noted for "dermal irritation" especially when being discussed by natural product developers. However, it is important to note that natural ingredients can cause just as much if not more dermal irritation and allergic reactions. The truth is, allergies exist no matter how we try to eliminate them. Actually quite a few essential oils are known to cause skin sensitization and there are others that are toxic as well.

The moral of the story is synthetics and naturals have an equal list of pros and cons. It is up to the consumer to decide what is important and make purchases based on that decision. I have used synthetic personal care products up until now and they served me well. But at this point in my life, I feel a responsibility to protect my environment and to give my body more benefit than harm.

Whatever you choose, glam it up!

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Long, Luxurious Hair: The Technique

In order to maximize your personal hair growth cycle, you should implement a consistent hair care routine. This post is just my suggestion; the technique I use to ensure my hair is as healthy as possible. Remember healthy hair is key to getting your hair to its longest length. Alter this technique so that it suits your particular needs.

Wash your hair often (at least once a week) with a good quality moisturizing shampoo followed by moisturizing conditioner. Remember to steer clear of alcohols which are very drying to the scalp and hair. Greasy hair needs to be washed more often than dryer, curly hair. **Dirty hair does not grow faster than clean hair. That's just nasty! Avoid 2 in 1 products; their conditioning is rarely as effective as a stand alone conditioner. For softer hair, do not rinse away all the conditioner. Leaving a trace of conditioner on the hair helps to smooth the cuticle layer and provides a layer of protection until the next wash. Once a month, I recommend a deep conditioner. Leave it on for no less than 10-15 minutes, but really what's the rush? Relax, watch a movie, read a book.

As previously discussed, regular trims are essential to ensure the hair on your hair is its healthiest. I usually get my ends trimmed with every relaxer treatment. For me that is every 4 weeks. Most stylists recommend a trim every six to eight weeks. Just be mindful of how your ends look. If they are frizzy, dry or transparent, its definitely time for a trim.

Since heat is not a friend to our hair, keep heat styling to a minimum. Blow dry your hair and then heat style as desired ONCE A WEEK. Use a light hair oil or a thermal styling product to help protect your hair from heat damage. Do not pick up a flat iron, curling iron, crimping iron, etc again until the next wash. You'll be surprised how much you reduce split ends and breakage just following this one rule.

There is a lot of pressure to go natural these days. If you feel the urge, look for products with botanicals, herbs and minerals in the ingredients. Such products will provide many nutrients that the body does not produce on its own. You can get the same benefits of natural hair care by altering your diet to include the foods discussed in "The Friend". When making the switch from mainstream hair products to all natural hair products, the condition of your hair may appear to get worse before it gets better. This phenomenon is similar to an addict in recovery, the hair goes through a withdrawal period.

One last note, chemically treated hair needs extra TLC. If your hair is permanently colored, bleached, permed or relaxed, you should consider using a deep conditioner with each wash and adding a hot oil treatment once a month. You may also find that you need to get your ends trimmed more regularly. To one and all-- go easy on the styling products. Product buildup is definitely "The Enemy".

Here's to the Glam Life and Long, Luxurious Hair!

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Long, Luxurious Hair: The Friend

In the previous posts for the Long, Luxurious Hair Series, we discussed the science behind hair growth and factors that negatively affect the growth process. Armed with that information, we are now able to investigate ways to optimize individual hair growth cycles. The key is to protect the hair from extensive damage and breakage.

The very best way to promote healthy hair growth is from the inside out. Incorporating foods that aid in hair growth and strength is a healthy and safe way to reach the ultimate goal. Hair is made primarily of a strong protein called keratin which is also found in skin and nails. Variations in the amino acids found in keratin account for the differences in texture with some being soft and/flexible and some being hard. Since hair is made of protein, eating foods that are high in protein will be beneficial to the condition of the hair. Iron, B Vitamins, Essential Fatty Acids, Vitamin E and sulfur are also good additions to a healthy hair diet. Adding more of the following foods will be a good start: fish, eggs, leafy green vegetables, yogurt and nuts. Experimenting with different recipes that include these foods is a fun way to change your diet. Stear clear of hair growth supplements, they are potentially dangerous and unnecessary.

Aside from altering your eating habits, there are some topical hair treatments that will help to repair and prevent damage. Moisture is a must for healthy hair. Dry hair is often brittle and easily broken. It is important to note that hair oil products are not moisturizing products. Good moisturizing products will infuse moisture (water) in the hair shaft which hydrates the cuticle layer helping to create shine and prevent breakage and/or split ends. Use shampoos and conditioners that have humectants in the ingredients list. Humectants draw moisture to the hair and hold it there. Some humectants are glycerin, honey, sugar cane, hydrolyzed wheat starch, sodium PCA, panthenol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and acetamide MEA. Also be sure to avoid of sulfates and alcohol which strip the hair of its natural oils.

Heat styling can cause damage to the hair shaft when used in excess. In addition to minimizing the use of heat, you should invest in thermal styling hair products which help to protect the hair from permanent damage and usually have other nutritive properties.

Finally, having your ends trimmed on a regular basis is your hair's very best friend. Split ends are not only unsightly, but they spread. Ragged ends easily get tangled with other strands of hair and cause breakage when the hair is combed or brushed. Uncontrolled split ends continue to split, higher and higher up the hair shaft causing frizzy, dry, damaged looking hair. When this sort of damage is finally addressed, the hair has to be cut much more than it would had it been dealt with early. Most stylists recommend a scheduled trim every six weeks.

In the final post of the series, we will discuss a technique to maintaining healthy hair for optimal hair growth.

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Long, Luxurious Hair : The Enemy

Before I begin discussing "The Enemy", I'd like to give a brief and blunt recap of Part I. Simply put, a person's hair will grow only to the length that their individual growth cycle allows. There is no product or technique that will extend your unique hair growth cycle. That being said, healthy hair should be the ultimate goal. The result of improperly cared for hair is breakage. Naturally breakage abbreviates the potential length of your hair. There are several culprits which negatively affect the hair growth cycle. Included are heat, chemicals and styling products. Here's why:

The most key fact in understanding "The Enemy" is knowing that by the time the hair emerges from the scalp, it is no longer alive. Consider a fresh flower arrangement. Once the flowers are cut, they are no longer receiving a continual supply of the nutrients needed to survive. As the recipient of the flowers, we do all we can to keep the flowers in bloom for as long as possible. We clip the stems at just the right angle, put them in water, add plant food, prune the leaves, etc. Similarly, our hair needs just as much TLC.

Heat styling can be both beneficial and counter-productive. The benefits will be discussed in Part III. When heat is applied to the hair, it breaks the hydrogen bonds (water molecules) found on the cuticle layer. The cuticle layer is then opened and the hair is able to be reshaped and maintains this new shape upon cooling. When water, in liquid or steam form, is introduced, the hydrogen bonds reform and the hair returns to its natural state. Excessive use of heat causes severe damage to the cuticle layer which will eventually lose its ability to "bounce back", thus breakage results.

The majority of American women have chemically altered their hair at some point. This includes permanent waves (perms/jerry curls), relaxers and permanent color treatments. Each involves the use of strong acids or bases which just aren't pretty for anything dead or alive. I'm sure I don't need to prove that, each of those treatments will cause chemical burns on the scalp if left on too long. Damage to the cuticle layer from these processes is inevitable. In the case of permanent color treatments, the product is meant to literally strip the cuticle layer until the desired color is acheived. Sounds painful!

Styling products are not such harsh villains, but they can cause significant damage nonetheless. Typically, mousse, styling/sculpting gel, holding spray, etc contain alcohol which can be very drying to the hair. Paired with the heat from a blow dryer, curling or flat iron, the hair shaft suffers a great deal of damage apparent by split ends and breakage.

Look for Part III where I will discuss how to fight the enemy yet still enjoy the styling we love.

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Long, Luxurious Hair: The Science

The Science is Part I of a 4 part series geared at dispelling the myths, providing the facts and suggesting techniques for optimal hair growth. The topics to be discussed later are The Enemy, The Friend and The Technique.

Fact or Fiction? Anybody can grow long hair with proper care. FICTION-- Here's why:

Each individual has a unique hair cycle which accounts for the length of their hair. A complete hair cycle consists of 3 phases: anagen, catagen and telogen. Anagen is the active growth phase of the hair cycle. The duration of the anagen phase is 3-7 years depending on the individual. In contrast, the rate of hair growth is generally the same for everyone. Hair usually grows at a rate of one centimeter a month; although there are factors that can affect the rate of growth ie season and health. The anagen phase is initiated in the follicle embedded deep in the scalp. Over time, the follicle gradually rises to the surface presenting the hair shaft.

The catagen phase is the rest period for the hair lasting approximately 2-4 weeks. During the catagen phase, the hair is no longer actively growing, however; the follicle is still moving towards the surface of the scalp. The follicle also begins to shrink in size marking its near demise.

The final phase of the hair cycle is the telogen phase. This is the period of time in which the follicle sheds mature hair. The shedding period lasts about 3-4 months. In the telogen phase, hair is either shed naturally or pulled out painlessly in the typical grooming process of shampooing, combing, brushing, etc. With the shedding of old hair, the follicle is ready to cultivate the growth of new hair; thus marking both the ending and beginning of the hair cycle. At any given time, 90% of hair on the scalp is in the anagen phase while the remaining 10% is in the telogen phase.

The anagen phase is the segment of the hair cycle that is responsible for length. Unfortunately the duration of an individual's anagen phase is genetically determined. In other words, there is no way to alter the length of one's anagen phase nor the natural length of one's hair. Hormones play a significant role in the anagen phase and provide an explanation for the variances in hair growth between men and women. Androgen, the male hormone present in both males and females, has the greatest affect on hair growth and thickness. Oestrogen, the female hormone also present in both sexes, decrease the rate of hair growth, yet extend the growth period. In pregnancy, the oestrogen levels are much higher which is why hair tends to grow longer in those 9 months. Ultimately, the balance between androgen and oestrogen in individuals regulates hair growth.

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Personal Branding

We are all familiar with the cliche-- "First impressions are lasting impressions." It seems that today this couldn't be more true. Personal Branding is the concept of packaging yourself in a way that makes you marketable in your career, allows you to command attention when you enter a room and leads to an overall increase in self esteem. The goal is to present yourself in the manner in which you want to be perceived. For many of us, this is simply a matter of playing up existing attributes; for others its a 'fake it til you make it' undertaking.

For the purposes of this post, let's focus on the superficial packaging; the 'you' people perceive at first sight. As much as I despise it, the way you present yourself has great bearing on the opinions formed by others. Excess facial hair gives the idea that you have something to hide. A slovenly appearance indicates laziness and lack of ambition... and so on. The clothes you wear, style of your hair, your makeup routine all say something about who you are as a person or better yet how others view you.

Less considered but no less important is the fragrance you wear. It is a little known fact that smell is the sense most closely related to memory. The scent you wear can invoke thoughts, impressions and memories in others as well as in yourself. Oftentimes, people wear fragrances that are a mismatch to their personality and/or goals. For this reason, I recommend adding a custom fragrance to your personal branding package. A fragrance made to suit your unique persona can not only improve your first impressions, it can also induce confidence, self assurance and assertiveness.

Contact Envie Bath and Body to inquire about custom fragrance services. Introductory pricing applies for a limited time only!

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Lip Plumpers

Every woman wants luscious lips, but not all of us are so blessed. I've become an avid reader of beauty blogs and i can't help but notice that lip plumpers are everywhere! There are plumping glosses, balms, lipsticks, stains-- the list just goes on and on. So of course, my intrigue is how do they work? I've never used a plumper so I didn't have the luxury of flipping it over and reading the ingredients list, but of course I found the active ingredient!

So I've read that these plumpers tingle when applied which leads you to believe they work. Good news, you're right! The tingle sensation is attributed to menthoxypropanediol, a derivative of menthol. The way it works is by causing irritation of the skin resulting in swelling. So why doesn't regular old menthol have the same affect? Well, it can slightly, but menthoxypropanediol is made synthetically in a lab and it is twice as strong as menthol which results in greater irritation.

Because of the way these plumpers work, it is recommended that they are not used daily to prevent damage to the delicate skin on the lips. My suggestion: use sparingly for nights out as a part of your glam look.

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Crazy Week!

Hello All! This week has been like a roller coaster; plenty of ups and downs. I've been coping with the inevitable. Regretfully, my official launch which was originally scheduled for April 1, 2009 must be postponed. There are some loose ends that cannot be tied right now and I just can't reconcile a raggedy launch. My line means too much to me not to be perfect. I am, however, able to offer my custom services. I'm in the process of setting up a temporary website where the services are explained in detail. As soon as it is up and running I will post the URL.

I want to thank everyone who has been a support to me in this venture. Doors and windows are being opened for me everyday. Success is right around the corner!

Now, I owe you all a techie post and an um, what?! post. I'm throwing out the daily post assignments. Life is getting increasingly hectic so I may not be able to post everyday, but you will still get the same substance. Please continue to visit daily and tell your friends about the site.

Thanks!

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Maintenance Monday: You Can Do Anything!

Almost everyone has a dream that seems unattainable. You alone may not think you can pull it off, then you make the mistake of sharing your dream with someone totally undeserving of hearing it and you get the "now what makes you think you can do that?" look. Unfortunately, we can be our own worst enemy and friends and family are our resident goon squad. No wonder the dream seems impossible, there is no faith and positivity behind it.

If there is a dream in your heart, you have the responsibility to work towards it. All things are possible, especially those things you have a strong desire to achieve. The first step to living your dreams is to tell yourself you can do it. Start your mornings by speaking to yourself in the mirror; allowing only positive affirmations to leave your mouth. Example monologue: "Good morning Desiree! The start of this day brings you closer to your dream. You are hardworking, steadfast and dedicated to your goals. The ball is in your court and you're destined to win. Don't allow the negativity of others ruin your day. You are positive and will reap the benefits of your disposition. Have a very productive day! I love you!"

You may find it helpful to write a script to memorize and recite every morning. Having a standard conversation with yourself every morning will prevent you from saying anything negative by accident. Lets face it, some days we just don't feel positive, but positive affirmations can make all the difference on those days. I emphasize the mirror because it is important that you see you telling you great things. You have to believe yourself in order to combat the negativity of others.

Although I would prefer not to hear anyone say what I want can't be done, I accept it as a challenge. I get a kick out of showing Mr. and Mrs. Negative that I can indeed do the impossible. I believe that is a great approach to reversing the negativity-- Oh you don't think I can? Just watch me!!! Prime example--- I'm starting a company during a recession that hasn't even peaked yet, but I can guarantee you I will succeed!

In closing, you know who the nay sayers are. They don't deserve the privilege of knowing your dreams. They'll know soon enough when you're living it!

Be unstoppable!

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Um, What?! Glycolic Acid

A couple years ago, while in the midst of a battle with my temperamental skin, a friend of mine recommended I try a chemical peel. The title alone was enough to keep me from trying it. I have very dry skin, opting for a chemical peel just screams "Dry me out some more!!!!" Thankfully I saved myself the heartache.

Glycolic acid is the active ingredient in chemical peels. While it has a host of benefits, they do not come without a cost. Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from sugar cane. It can be used industrially for rust removal and degreasing, but is more commonly used in skin care products as an exfoliator, moisturizer and wrinkle reducer. It is only classified as safe at less than 10%; however, is most effective at concentrations of 10% and higher. Generally only smaller cosmetic companies are willing to take the risk of liability for higher concentrations of glycolic acid in their formulas.

When used in an exfoliating cream, this highly acidic ingredient penetrates damaged skin and burns it off chemically. Other ingredients in the cream carry away residual dead skin flakes. The acid in the cream is neutralized by water when it is rinsed off. Following exfoliation, glycolic acid has the ability to act as a humectant by drawing moisture to the skin. Using products with glycolic acid can cause increased sensitivity to the sun ; thus, a high spf sunscreen is recommended. If that isn't scary enough, the chemical peel process is just horrendous! After a good scrub of the skin, a highly concentrated alpha hydroxy acid (usually glycolic acid) is applied. Allow me to classify highly concentrated. Recall glycolic acid can be used to remove rust, this at a concentration not to exceed 70%. The concentration of glycolic acid in chemical peels begins at 50%! So what you're applying to your face just may be strong enough to remove the rust from your car! NOT GOOD.

It is likely that for a few days following a chemical peel treatment, the skin will appear red and irritated, sort of like a burn... I wonder why! The skin on the face is so delicate, I can't imagine why anyone would want to use such a potent acid on it. I could better relate to the use of a chemical peel on much rougher/tougher skin like that on the feet. While I do not oppose the use of alpha hydroxy acids in skin care treatments, I do think it is important to have some discretion.

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Techie Tuesday: The Caffeine Trend

Caffeine is used in a multitude of cosmetic products, but is it just a popular trend that will eventually pass? or is it really effective? The function of caffeine in cosmetic applications is to reduce the appearance of cellulite and puffiness under the eyes. I am rather suspicious of these claims of caffeine in a topical application considering so many women drink coffee, tea and soda pop daily yet still have the cellulite/puffy eye dilemma. Here's an example to help put this into perspective. My 4 month old son has a nasty case of eczema which led to a skin infection, while the dermatologist prescribed a topical antibiotic, the allergist said that wouldn't be enough. He is currently taking an oral antibiotic to clear the infection from his blood stream, not just on his skin. My point is ingesting caffeine on a daily basis should seemingly be more effective than applying it topically. Also consider the difference in concentration. Eye creams come in the smallest little pots imaginable, how much caffeine do you think you're getting in one application? Certainly not as much as you would ingest from a cup of coffee or a 16 oz Coke! Lets further investigate the claims.

In connection with cellulite creams, caffeine can have a tightening effect on the skin. This is actually a sign of skin irritation, but if it works... why not? right? Cellulite (which is not a medical term) is the body's natural store system for fat. What makes it so unsightly is when it begins to bulge under pressure of the connective tissue. Connective tissue in women lacks the flexibility that it has in the male body. In eye creams, caffeine can increase blood flow which probably won't reduce puffiness, but it may have a dramatic affect on redness and dark circles. Caffeine is also a proven antioxidant.

The moral of the story is, while caffeine may not actually perform according to its advertised claims, it still has the ability to enhance most cosmetic applications.

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Maintenace Monday: Beauty All Around You

"Never lose an opportunity of seeing anything beautiful, for beauty is God's handwriting."

Ralph Waldo Emerson

As spring peeks around the corner, so do endless opportunities to experience beauty at its finest. As the snow melts, the grass "greens" and flowers begin to bloom. The transition alone is breathtaking. There is a light, fresh scent in the atmosphere, a gentle breeze in the air and the sun peaks with a delicate glow. All the changes in the environment refresh the mind, body and soul of women everywhere and there is a sort of trickle down affect that induces a change in our own appearances.

I've noticed that everything about a woman becomes more feminine as the weather breaks. The make-up gets lighter-- softer colors, shimmer foundation and lip gloss instead of opaque lipstick. Much of the red nail lacquer is replaced with sweet pinks, lavenders and ice blues. And we trade in the gray and navy blue sweaters for funky green and spunky pink blazers and airy dresses.

I've always been able to recognize beauty in other women. I notice great hair and skin, a woman's sense of style and the way she carries herself with confidence and grace. Although I don't always express a compliment, I have a great respect and appreciation for the beauty of a woman. As an exercise in self esteem, take the time to enjoy all of the springtime scenery; the weather, the plant life and the beauty of the human race. The ability to recognize the beauty of another woman without feeling threatened or intimidated is a sure signed of inner security.

Take it all in!

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Updates...

I haven't posted anything since Wednesday for good reason. Primarily, as April 1 draws near, I have quite a few loose ends to tie. I've been making final touches on the scents for the signature series. I'm rather pleased with the results so far. I was also working on a project for a client which is now awaiting her approval. Lastly, I have developed preliminary formulas for the next set of products to roll out. I would like to make them available in mid-April. Let me tell you they are divine! I'll wait awhile before I tell you what they are in case I change the order of product release.

About the blog posts... I think Timeless Treasure Thursday has come close to running its course. I may write about a company from time to time, but ultimately the subject matter for Thursday will be replaced. I may begin to cover trends in hair, skin, makeup and nail care and periodically tie Thursday's posts in with Fresh Idea Friday. Another thought is to add another self esteem day. Sort of a "touch up" to follow Maintenance Monday. We'll play it by ear for now.

Be glamorous!

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Um, What?! Urea

When you hear the word 'urea' what is the first thing that comes to mind? If you thought about urine, you're not alone and you're certainly not wrong! Although urea is not literally urine, it is a component in the urine produced by mammals. The urea concentration in animal waste is much higher than that of humans. Fortunately, the urea used is not derived from animals or humans, it is produced synthetically. That is great for vegans but of no use to the au naturale beauties.

Urea, also known as carbamide, was first synthesized from inorganic materials in 1828 by Friedrich Wohler who was attempting to make something totally different. Urea was in fact the hands down proof that nature could be recreated in the lab using non-natural starting materials. Urea is mainly produced commercially/industrially as a fertilizer; however, it has significant applications in cosmetics and personal care products.

As an ingredient in cosmetics, urea is used as a preservative and also as a buffer, humectant and skin conditioning agent. A buffer controls the ratio of acids and bases. Typically, personal care products should have a pH close to that of water which is neutral (pH of 7). Humectants draw water to the skin which aids in hydration/moisturization. Urea is an active ingredient in products used to treat dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema and keratosis pilaris (chicken skin).

After review by the CIR urea showed low adverse affects. Dermal irritation was found to be insignificant. There were no reproductive or developmental issues. Urea was also cleared from any carcinogenic risks.

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Techie Tuesday: Beauty Slime

I'm sure we are all familiar with snails and the slimy little trail they leave behind. I once had an intimate relationship with a few snails in middle school. They were unwilling participants in a science project I developed regarding second hand smoke. FYI-- I no longer use animal testing. The slime was gross to say the least, but snails were the lesser of evils. I worked with mealworms first--extra gross!-- and I can't even bear the sight of slugs. Much to my surprise, snail trails have a profound application in cosmetics and skin care treatments.

The use of snail extract in beauty treatments was discovered accidentally by snail farmers in Chile. They noticed that cuts healed rather quickly and that all of the workers on the snail farm had unusually soft, supple hands. Typically, hard work with your hands equals hard, calloused hands, but that certainly was not the case. After taking the time to really think about it, it should be no surprise that snail slime has these properties. Critically thinking, snail's soft bellies travel over some very rough surfaces, yet they keep going and never appear to get injured. Scientists discovered that the snail extract--Helix Aspersa Muller Glycoconjugates-- contains collagen, allantoin, glycolic acid, elastin and antibiotics. Allantoin is responsible for skin regeneration. It is the anti-oxidant that allows a snail to repair/rebuild its shell if necessary. Glycolic acid is useful in hydrating and exfoliating the skin as well as assisting natural collagen production. The antibiotics in snail extract are a combination of peptides and Vitamins A, C and EA which work together to fight bacteria.

This is not 'new' science. The first snail cream was patented in 1995. It was used to fight wrinkles, acne, and age spots and to treat minor burns, cuts, stretch marks, warts, ingrown hairs, etc. The snails used to make various snail trail cosmetics are raised in a controlled environment to ensure they produce optimal extract. But how is the slime extracted?

One patented method is to agitate the snails in warm water. The water is then filtered to collect only the snail extract. I've read of other methods that were much more harsh than this. One involved removing the shell and cutting the fatty parts of the snail. Now is that really necessary? There is also concern about how effective the extract is after being stolen from the snail. Son of the Chilean farmer who originally discovered this miracle slime has developed a process to extract the slime and preserve its qualities. He claims his method does not harm the snails but that is definitely under suspicion since the method is top secret.

While it is a known fact that the snail trail has all these magnificent properties, there is no guarantee that they actually make it into your jar of cream or vial of serum. Additionally, the synthetic ingredients typically found in our beauty products may greatly alter the effectiveness of such a concoction.

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Maintenance Monday: Strength and Compassion

I had the pleasure of attending a very honorable event this past Thursday evening. The Vanguard Awards produced by the Detroit Young Professionals organization recognized 10 very deserving individuals who are making a significant impact on Metropolitan Detroit. One of the honorees, Kalyn Risker, stood out to me more than any of the others. The minute this woman began to speak, I could see her inner beauty shining bright like a beacon of light. Kalyn Risker is the founder of S.A.F.E (Sisters Acquiring Financial Empowerment) a non-profit organization dedicated to helping domestic violence survivors overcome the economical pains of leaving an unhealthy relationship.

Ms. Risker spoke with such passion, determination, strength and compassion about her cause. I made a point to introduce myself to her and extend my resources to her organization for more reasons than one. I truly believe that her mission will reach a multitude of suffering women which is reason enough to want to help. But more than that, this woman exudes the type of inner beauty that I have spoken so much about on Maintenance Mondays. Having overcome her own hardships, Risker seeks to empower other women to do the same. I applaud her efforts and look forward to working with her in the very near future.

Kalyn Risker is an example to us all. Continue striving to be your very best self--- inside and out. And don't forget to fight for a cause you believe in. Everybody needs some sort of help, why not be the one to offer it?

Click on SAFE to visit the website to learn more about Kalyn Risker's organization. Remember, nonprofits can always benefit from monetary support. Large or small, your donation will make a difference.

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Timeless Treasure: Aveda Corporation

Aveda Corporation was born in 1978 from a homemade clove shampoo made by successful cosmetologist Horst Rechelbacher. Horst spent six months in India studying the use of plants and herbs for the purposes of promoting good health and increased lifespan. Thus Aveda products incorparated all that he learned. In the early 1980's Horst began marketing his shampoos and conditioners to hair salons where he earned great success. He eventually began a distribution system for his products in which distributers sold Aveda exclusively in their stores.

Aveda's body care products were set apart from the others because they employed the use of aromatherapy and because they were all natural. Horst was always opposed to the use of synthetics, petroleum bases and animal testing. The Aveda Corporation expanded its business by introducing Aveda Esthetique in the 90's. The Esthetique consisted of over 75 original fragrances that could be used to custom scent already existing Aveda products.

Over time, more and more big name cosmetic companies began marketing natural product lines. Because those companies offered their products to a larger population of vendors, they had more earning potential. It appeared that the Aveda Corporation may have restricted its profits by having a collection of too many different products. As part of its committment to protecting the environment, the company owned a collection of salons, esthetiques and even environmentally friendly clothing lines.

In 1996, Horst decided to take a step back from the everyday hustle and bustle of his growing company. By 1997, the company had been sold to Estee Lauder where, as chairman of the Estee Lauder business unit, he was able to continue to develop products. Today, the company remains profitable and has experienced an increase in growth as Estee Lauder has marketing reach overseas.

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