Scent Inspiration: Alexander McQueen

I have a thing for fashion... I love clothes, shoes, handbags and accessories. I do an awful lot of window shopping on the web planning my next purchase or daydreaming about the day when I can afford the item I want. This time the most coveted item was a pair of Alexander McQueen booties-- Faithful Booties to be exact. Oh, how these shoes made my heart skip a beat! Finely crafted black leather, peep toe, zippers, buttons, skulls... in a word HOT!!!! So daydreaming of the day I could purchase a pair of $1155 shoes without guilt evolved into a scent inspiration. After all, cosmetics and fragrance development is my black card.

The Alexander McQueen Faithful Booties inspire a scent that is representative of every good girl's inner bad girl. We all have one, whether we let her out or not. She's the rebel, the girl that doesn't want to play by the rules, wants to be sexy not just beautiful, would love to hang out all night and call off work in the morning. This scent is for her! I envision an intoxicating scent reminiscent of the smell of a new leather jacket and fresh tobacco. Crisp notes of cognac, lime and grapefruit add character to the scent. Of course there's more to the fragrance, but I can't give away ALL my secrets, right?!

More scent inspirations coming soon. :-)

**Picture taken from http://alexandermcqueen.com

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All Things Accutane

At the request of my dear twitter friend Justmiaiam, this post will cover the good, the bad and the ugly of accutane. Unfortunately its mostly bad and ugly... let's dive in. Please note, I couldn't possibly cover all the side effects of this drug, seriously its just that bad.

Accutane is one of 4 brand names for the acne drug generically known as isotretinoin. The remaining 3 brand names are Amnesteem, Claravis and Sotret. So what is it exactly? Accutane is a form of Vitamin A that works by minimizing the amount of natural oil produced by the skin. It is usually prescribed for severe nodular acne after other treatments have proven uneffective. However, a 2 year congressional study found that doctors have prescribed the drug to teens and women with only mild acne symptoms. Accutane is much too powerful for that.

The "bad" side effects:

Some users of Accutane have attributed hair loss (sometimes permanent)to the drug. Because this drug works by altering the oil production and cell regeneration it causes the hair and skin to become extremely dry and fragile which leads to thinning and loss. The hair loss can be anywhere including the eyebrows, eyelashes and scalp. Other users claim that the drug has caused severe back and joint pain that has persisted even after use of the drug has been discontinued. Other "bad" side effects include poor vision, sensitivity to light, dry mucous membranes (nose, lungs, bladder, anus) and depression which could of course lead to more serious problems like psychosis and suicidal thoughts.

Now for the "ugly":

Accutane has been known to cause severe birth defects and miscarriage. This is more than just a notion. In fact, the warning is so strong that the FDA requires patients to be enrolled in iPledge a program that ensures individuals taking the drug are not pregnant and will not become pregnant while on the drug. The iPledge programs requires that patients must be on (2) forms of birth control and must receive regular pregnancy tests before, during and after treatment as any amount of Accutane (no matter how miniscule) can cause severe birth defects. Common birth defects are of baby's ears, eyes, face, skull, brain and heart. So why does Accutane effect the reproductive system so severely? The drug contains parabens which demonstrate estrogenic activity, imbalances of human sexual hormones wreak havoc on the reproductive system. Other "ugly" side effects include stroke, seizures, low white blood count (susceptibility to fungal and bacterial infections)and liver damage... just to name a few.

The moral of the story is... while Accutane may prove effective in treating and clearing acne symptoms long term, the side effects are common and far too severe to risk.

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Acne: Treating the Culprit

Now that we've discussed factors that cause acne, we can explore the treatments. The two most common acne treatments are benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid.

Benzoyl peroxide works by killing the bacteria that causes acne. This bacteria (Propionibacteria acne)cannot live in an oxygen rich environment. The structure of benzoyl peroxide actually contains 4 Oxygen atoms per molecule (that's a lot). In essence this ingredient floods the pores with oxygen thereby killing the acne causing bacteria. Benzoyl peroxide also works to keep the pores clear of dead skin cells. Thus, not only does it treat acne, but it helps to prevent future breakouts. This treatment is most effective on mild to moderate acne and can be used with other acne treatments. Because there is no real cure for acne, treatment must be ongoing to ensure clear skin. Benzoyl peroxide is overwhelmingly popular in part because there are no known side effects that come with prolonged use.

Benzoyl peroxide is available in many forms including liquid, cream and bar cleansers, toner, concentrated cream, shaving cream, gel etc. The general consensus is to start treatments in a concentration of 2.5% for at least three weeks and track the results. Benzoyl peroxide is available in stronger concentrations, however, they are a lot more irritating to the skin so the side effects may outweigh the benefits in some situations. The goal is to use the lowest and most effective concentration possible. It is important to note benzoyl peroxide is not to be used as a spot treatment. This ingredient is known to be drying, so it is important to use a good non-comedogenic (doesn't clog pores) moisturizer. Also, peroxides are bleaching agents so avoid getting them in your hair, or on clothes and towels.


Unlike benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid does not treat acne bacteria. It is used to treat acne caused by clogged pores that appear in the form of white and blackheads. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that sloughs away dead skin cells that could possibly clog the pores. It is able to penetrate the pores keeping them clear and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is available over the counter in lotion, cream, cleanser, toner, and pre-soaked application pads. Most treatment concentrations range from 0.5% to 2%. Proper use of salicylic acid as an acne treatment would be to start with either the application pads or lotion/cream to get acne under control. Once your skin has cleared it is safe to graduate to a once a week wash or scrub. The use of more than one form of the treatment is highly discouraged as salicylic acid can be very drying and irritating. Similar to benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid treatments must be ongoing to continue to see positive results. Possible side effects are stinging, burning and excessive dryness. As always be sure to use a good moisturizer.

In the next post of this series will discuss a few less common acne treatments, spot acne treatments and Accutane by request. Until then...

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Eeek! Where did this Acne Come From?!

A few of you have asked me beauty questions regarding acne and acne treatments. I like to be thorough with my answers so now is the perfect time for a blog series on acne. We will start with the causes, after all, if you don't know why it happens how can you treat it?

The source of acne lies far beneath the skin's surface in the sebaceous hair follicles (also known as pores). The sebaceous glands produce an oil called sebum which is your skin's natural "moisture" supply. If all goes well then when your skin cells die, they are sloughed off in your sebum supply. Sometimes, things go awry and your skin cells don't slough evenly. Whatever is left of dead skin cells and bacteria etc gets sticky and clogs the sebaceous hair follicle(s). Overtime, there is a build up of sebum, dead cells and bacteria which presents itself in the form of a pimple or acne. In addition to the gookey stuff, the body will respond by sending an army of white blood cells to fight the bacteria-- those get stuck too and while in battle increase pressure in the bump and cause it to hurt. Ultimately the factors that affect acne are your body's rate of skin cell regeneration and sebum production.

The above is fact. The following is my educated opinion. I welcome my esthy friends to weigh in.

The consensus in the medical/scientific world is that dirt, food and most cosmetics do not cause or even affect the severity of acne. I beg to differ. Keeping in mind that acne is generally caused by dead skin cells and bacteria becoming sticky and clogging the pores, I can't imagine how dirt wouldn't get stuck in there too. I have the same theory for makeup that is applied in excess and not properly removed. In regards to food (junk food) our bodies get rid of toxins the best way they know how-- secreting toxins through the pores is not a far cry. Consider this: How many of us have been able to smell garlic on a person's body. I mean, they didn't even have to speak and you just knew they had Italian food for lunch. Or how about the odor of alcohol radiating off of a person that has had entirely too much to drink... Its seeping out of their pores! My point is-- all the chemical preservatives, fat and cholesterol that is ingested from junk food has to get out somehow and the normal exit is not always the most efficient.

So that's acne in a nutshell. There is no real cure for acne, but there are treatments. Once successfully treated, prevention is key. We will discuss courses of action in the next post of the series.

Until then... Stay Glamorous, acne and all!

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Scent Inspirations

Its been quite awhile since I've shared my scent inspirations with you all. The first was inspired by the feather fashion trend. That scent actually made it to my product line as Arabesque. I was later inspired by a funky piece of furniture. Today I called on my Twitter friends for inspiration from their favorite songs. Thanks to @_JenniferElaine, @Relax_Naturally and @Krissy90220 for playing along.

Purple Rain (Prince)

The music and the melody of this song inspire a deep, heavy, sultry blend. In my mind I see (smell)a heavy floral top note anchored by a touch of spice and rounded off with a hint of musk or vanilla. My florals of choice would be rose, tuberose and/or lavender. For a spicey note I'm leaning toward carnation. A leather note would be kind of sexy in this blend too but minus the vanilla or musk.

Money Honey (Lady GaGa)

This song is fun, but its hot too. I think a citrus blend is fitting. I imagine a combination of grapefruit and lime top notes, ylang ylang to add something sweet to the blend with ginger and balsam peru at the base.

Bridge Over Troubled Water (Simon and Garfunkel)

What a lovely song! I drew inspiration from the lyrics of this song because while listening to it I seemed to totally ignore the music. For me this song is the epitome of a mother's love; constant, free and unconditional. This scent has to be warm, inviting and comforting. My vision is a benzoin and/or vanilla base, a nutmeg and clove heart and a touch of jasmine to make it complete.

I plan to experiment with each of these fragrances in the near future. I enjoy the creative process of turning my vision into reality.

Thanks ladies for the inspiration!

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Teach Yourself to Crawl

Its been quite awhile since I've done a self-esteem post. One of my main goals in life and business is to help women learn to love themselves completely. A big part of loving yourself is celebrating the things you are good at and the things you have accomplished. Just as significant is creating new reasons to be proud of yourself. Humans are the most intelligent life forms. We have the ability to constantly learn, grow and change; meaning we have infinite opportunities to strive toward being our best selves. That means we should always set goals, accomplish them and set more.

I was watching my son move around a couple days ago, fascinated by his development, when I had a very intriguing thought. We teach babies how to walk, but we never teach them to crawl. How relevant that is to everyday life! Crawling is the first step to a person's independent mobility. After we master crawling, we are ready to walk so we look to someone to teach us. Here's my point: Do all that you can to help yourself achieve great things BEFORE you reach out for help. When you have first learned to crawl, you have increased confidence and experience the feeling of accomplishment which gives you the drive to achieve even more. It is inevitable that we will need some help getting to where we want to be, but we should never rely on someone else to get us started.

Its ok to get your knees a little dusty before you slip on those stilettos.

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Lead... Is It In You?

Lead is not really a new fear factor. We have known for at least 2 decades that lead based paint is a "no-no", especially if you have small children. In more recent years scientists and health professionals have begun to point out lead content in other items that are typically ingested. The FDA currently regulates lead content in candy and food/cosmetic dyes. Unfortunately, no level of lead is deemed safe for ingestion, so even with regulation, there is still the possibility of ill-effects. The real purpose of this post is to discuss the dangers of lead because it can be ingested from your use of lipstick.

It is estimated that over a lifetime, the average woman ingests 4-10 lbs of lipstick. That is an awful lot when you consider how little you put on at a time. Imagine for a second eating lipstick by the tube... each is probably about a half ounce (I don't really know, just roll with me.) There are 16 oz in a lb... so 1 lb of lipstick is 32 sticks... times 10... that's 320 tubes of lipstick!!! Enough of the numbers, my point is, eating that much lipstick with a lead content of any amount is playing with fire.

Lead is harmful in that it has been found to be a neurotoxin that hinders learning, language and behavioral development, lowers IQ, and can cause increased aggression in some individuals. The problem is so major because the body cannot process and eliminate lead, so what is ingested over time will remain built up inside you.

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics conducted an in depth study of lead levels 33 popular lipsticks on the market. What they found is only 39% of the lipsticks they tested showed no detectable levels of lead. This means chances are, your favorite lipstick is toxic-- Buyer BEWARE!

There are some natural alternatives that are lead free, but they are a little harder to find. My suggestion is to scour the internet and support your handmade cosmetic companies. Click here to view the full report A Poison Kiss: The Problem of Lead in Lipstick.

Intelligence is the ultimate glam accessory... don't ruin it with lead exposure!

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Treat Your Feet... Its a Requirement!!!!

This blog post is the result of numerous twitpics, tweets and comments regarding BAD FEET. While we are not all fortunate enough to treat ourselves to periodic spa pedi's, there are plenty of cheap and easy ways to manage the condition of the skin on your feet. Here are just a few simple home remedies that will make even the most difficult feet presentable. Men, you can benefit from these tips as well!

The first step to decent feet is a good soak. Soaks are necessary to soften the cuticles, dead skin and callouses that form on the feet. You can find plenty of ingredients for a good soak right in your kitchen cabinet. Although I've never tried it myself, I've been told a mix of apple cider vinegar and warm water does an excellent job of priming the skin. Mix the vinegar and water in equal parts and soak your feet for 15-20 minutes. Be sure the water is warm, not hot. Hot water is drying to the skin. This soak has also been known to cure athlete's foot.

Following the soak, use a loofa sponge, pumice stone or foot rasp to scrub the dead skin from your feet. Now would be a good time to also use a homemade salt or sugar scrub. Try brown sugar or sea salt with olive oil. I think a good ratio is 3:1 sugar/salt:oil but feel free to play around with the ratio until you get a texture that you like (or need). Here's a tip: Never use a or let anyone else use a credo blade to remove the dead skin from your feet. It removes far too many layers of skin both healthy and dead. As with any healing process, the skin will come back more tough and thicker than before. The result is similar to the development of a scab when a cut or scrape is healing.

After a good scrubbing, your feet could benefit from a mask and a great moisturizer. A mixture of oatmeal, honey and olive oil makes a great mask to soothe and moisturize the skin. The key is to make it thick so that it sticks to your feet for awhile. Rinse feet with warm water and follow with your favorite lotion. Wear a pair of white cotton socks for awhile to lock in the moisture.

A little daily TLC for your tootsies will go a long way in preventing those embarassing "kicking flour" moments. My best advice is to keep a pumice stone and/or foot rasp in the shower right next to your razor.

Bad feet can ruin the hottest strappy stilettos and that's not glamorous at all!

Here's to the glam life!

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The Case For Exfoliation

As I am sure you know by now, my skin is very important to me. Its also rather temperamental! I have extremely dry skin which tends to flake and gets worse depending on the weather. I don't just mean a change in season... I mean if its 75 degrees today and then tomorrow its 52 degrees my skin will instantly be a flaky, dry mess! Living in Michigan I have plenty of sucky skin days. I have always used an exfoliant for my face, but just began daily full body exfoliation within the last six months. Here's my case for exfoliation for any skin type.

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the outer layer of the skin (epidermis). Skin cells regenerate every day in the lower layer of the skin (dermis). In order for the young skin cells to show there brilliance the old skin cells that make our skin rough, dry and dull need to be removed. For dry skin types, dead skin cells accumulate and make the skin look and feel even more dry. They also prevent moisture from penetrating the pores. For oily skin types, dead skin cells get trapped in the oil naturally produced by your skin and clog the pores. This causes the skin to not only appear dull but also results in breakouts. Exfoliation becomes more important as we age because the natural process of cell turnover slows down.

There are two types of exfoliation: Mechanical and Chemical. Mechanical exfoliation uses various abrasives to physically remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface. Daily mechanical exfoliation should be limited to gentle exfoliants like finely ground fruit seeds, fine sugar/salt, etc. A more abrasive exfoliant like medium to coarse salt/sugar, jojoba beads and whole fruit seeds (like grape and strawberry seeds) can be used 1-2 times per week to really refresh the skin.

Chemical exfoliation employs alphahydroxy acids (AHA's), betahydroxy acids (BHA's)and enzymes to loosen the "glue" that holds dead skin cells together and sloughs them away. Citrus fruits such as lemons, tomatoes, grapefruit, oranges and lime contain natural chemicals (AHA's and BHA's, etc) that exfoliate without the need for rubbing or scrubbing. Chemical exfoliation should be used sparingly and in safe concentrations. Even natural chemicals can be way too strong for use on the skin (especially sensitive skin).

Most natural exfoliants are also rich in vitamins and minerals which is great for healthy skin. Any exfoliating treatment should be followed by a good moisturizer. After proper exfoliation, the skin can more easily absorb a moisturizer because it has been wiped clean of debris and the pores are open.

The second step in the Envie Body Care Systeme is our Silkening Body Polish which is a combination of exfoliants and a moisturizer. Our body polish is suitable for daily use as it contains a fine mechanical exfoliant (crushed walnut shells) and a gentle chemical exfoliant (Bamboo extract). The body polish is followed by our Luxury Shower Gel which is infused with Jojoba Oil and our Conditioning Body Butter Creme with Shea butter, Cocoa Butter, Marajuca, Avocado, Pumpkin Seed and Jojoba Oils.

Exfoliation is key for healthy, glowing, radiant skin... and what's more glam than that?!

Learn more about Envie and buy our products HERE

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Evolution of a Woman; Growth of a Brand

Not too long ago I was having a conversation with my mom that really put some things in perspective. Just looking back at my life; the things I've done, what I've learned and what I've always wanted to do, I realized that I have been moving towards my life purpose everyday. Sometimes crawling, sometimes walking and other times running. When you're living in your purpose, everything comes together and you begin to see that the cliche "Everything happens for a reason" is really true.

I fell in love with chemistry in high school and took all the chemistry classes I could fit in my schedule. I'm a nerd, I know! But I'm also a glam girl. So I paired my love of chemistry and my infatuation with healthy skin and hair to choose the perfect career.

Envie began to take shape in my freshman year of college. There was a really basic assignment to give a quick speech about your career choice. I kept it short, but it was thorough... I made posters with pictures of my imaginary products, wrote product descriptions and an ad campaign. When I look back that was probably a really dorky thing to do, but that was me-- putting my dreams on paper and sharing them with everyone who was [forced] to listen.

I built the Envie brand to represent me. Everything from the name to the fundamental mission of Envie is about who I am. Envie (on-vee-ay) is the french translation for desire-- a spin off of my name Desiree. I believe in vanity. When women care for their outer selves it makes a difference in the way they feel on the inside. Their confidence builds and they are thus able to achieve more. I believe in health. Our bodies need more than a quick fix or concealer; our skin needs nutrition to reach its greatest potential. I believe in luxury. Everyone should have the opportunity to enjoy the finer things-- Envie is among them. I believe in personal growth and development thus Envie seeks out women's organizations to aid in their missions. I believe in giving back via my time, efforts, money and love.

I don't represent my brand. My brand represents me. Get to know Envie.
Visit our Pre-Launch site HERE

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Envie Pre-Launch

As you all know, I have been working tirelessly on launching my line of bath and body products. As with any venture I have faced some road blocks, but I trudge on! So today I am pleased to share that we have positioned ourselves for a Pre-Launch. We still have a short way to go before the official launch of Envie Bath and Body, but we saw no reason why we couldn't offer you just a little bit of the good stuff.

The Pre-Launch was inspired by the overwhelming feedback that we received after hosting a few sampling events. You were ready to buy and who are we to deny you the chance! So this Pre-Launch is nothing fancy; just a temporary site for you to buy our products before their official release. And to show our appreciation, we're offering some pretty deep discounts.

There are 3 campaigns scheduled for the Pre-Launch, maybe more. Your response will determine how long we keep the good stuff coming!

The first campaign begins at midnight Monday, June 15, 2009 and will run for ONE WEEK ONLY!

Here's what we're offering:

The Envie Body Care Systeme-- Our unique product grouping was specially designed to nourish, condition and soften your skin. This system consists of four products that are all natural and naturally scented with our own essential oil blends. The featured products are: Luxury Bubble Bath, Silkening Body Polish, Luxury Shower Gel and Conditioning Body Butter Creme. Purchase the entire systeme or individual items. By using the complete Body Care Systeme your skin will absorb all of these wonderful nutrients:

Linoleic acid

Oleic acid

Palmitic acid

Stearic acid

Linolenic acid

Vitamins A, B1, B2, B5 (Panthothenic acid), D, E, C and K

Minerals

Silica

Protein

Lecithin

We can't wait to serve you! Here's to the Glam Life!

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Natural vs Synthetic: A Chemist's Perspective

The craze to "go green" and buy "organic" and "natural" is growing exponentially. The proponents of "natural" speak highly of the benefits and tend to leave out the possible risks, while the big name cosmetic chemists will tell you there is no harm in using synthetics. So, I'm offering my unbiased perspective as a cosmetic chemist that has developed a natural bath and body product line. I'll keep it short.

If you flip through the previous posts you'll find that I have defined quite a few of the typical ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products. As a chemist, I have a healthy respect for chemicals; they serve their purpose and most are harmless in the concentrations used. What synthetics lack is the nutritive benefits that "natural" ingredients have. I refer to natural in quotations for two reasons. 1) There is no FDA standard for what is considered natural. Anyone can make the claim whether its true or not. 2) Chemicals are "natural" too! Every element in the periodic table comes from the earth. Those elements come together to make both natural and synthetic ingredients alike.

There are two problems with synthetics that I consider significant. The first problem relates more to vanity than anything else. Synthetic ingredients (silicone oils for example) cannot be absorbed by the skin. They sit on top of the skin forming a protective barrier (good), but don't provide any health benefits. The second problem I find with synthetics is that the chemicals end up in our water supply and reek havoc on our environment and ecosystem. They also increase air pollution. With natural ingredients, you give your skin vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, alpha hydroxy acids, etc; a lot of which your body cannot produce on its own. Going natural means less pollution, better air quality (indoor and outdoor), less chemicals in the water run-off and higher profitability to farmers-- local, nationwide and global.

Synthetic ingredients are often noted for "dermal irritation" especially when being discussed by natural product developers. However, it is important to note that natural ingredients can cause just as much if not more dermal irritation and allergic reactions. The truth is, allergies exist no matter how we try to eliminate them. Actually quite a few essential oils are known to cause skin sensitization and there are others that are toxic as well.

The moral of the story is synthetics and naturals have an equal list of pros and cons. It is up to the consumer to decide what is important and make purchases based on that decision. I have used synthetic personal care products up until now and they served me well. But at this point in my life, I feel a responsibility to protect my environment and to give my body more benefit than harm.

Whatever you choose, glam it up!

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Long, Luxurious Hair: The Technique

In order to maximize your personal hair growth cycle, you should implement a consistent hair care routine. This post is just my suggestion; the technique I use to ensure my hair is as healthy as possible. Remember healthy hair is key to getting your hair to its longest length. Alter this technique so that it suits your particular needs.

Wash your hair often (at least once a week) with a good quality moisturizing shampoo followed by moisturizing conditioner. Remember to steer clear of alcohols which are very drying to the scalp and hair. Greasy hair needs to be washed more often than dryer, curly hair. **Dirty hair does not grow faster than clean hair. That's just nasty! Avoid 2 in 1 products; their conditioning is rarely as effective as a stand alone conditioner. For softer hair, do not rinse away all the conditioner. Leaving a trace of conditioner on the hair helps to smooth the cuticle layer and provides a layer of protection until the next wash. Once a month, I recommend a deep conditioner. Leave it on for no less than 10-15 minutes, but really what's the rush? Relax, watch a movie, read a book.

As previously discussed, regular trims are essential to ensure the hair on your hair is its healthiest. I usually get my ends trimmed with every relaxer treatment. For me that is every 4 weeks. Most stylists recommend a trim every six to eight weeks. Just be mindful of how your ends look. If they are frizzy, dry or transparent, its definitely time for a trim.

Since heat is not a friend to our hair, keep heat styling to a minimum. Blow dry your hair and then heat style as desired ONCE A WEEK. Use a light hair oil or a thermal styling product to help protect your hair from heat damage. Do not pick up a flat iron, curling iron, crimping iron, etc again until the next wash. You'll be surprised how much you reduce split ends and breakage just following this one rule.

There is a lot of pressure to go natural these days. If you feel the urge, look for products with botanicals, herbs and minerals in the ingredients. Such products will provide many nutrients that the body does not produce on its own. You can get the same benefits of natural hair care by altering your diet to include the foods discussed in "The Friend". When making the switch from mainstream hair products to all natural hair products, the condition of your hair may appear to get worse before it gets better. This phenomenon is similar to an addict in recovery, the hair goes through a withdrawal period.

One last note, chemically treated hair needs extra TLC. If your hair is permanently colored, bleached, permed or relaxed, you should consider using a deep conditioner with each wash and adding a hot oil treatment once a month. You may also find that you need to get your ends trimmed more regularly. To one and all-- go easy on the styling products. Product buildup is definitely "The Enemy".

Here's to the Glam Life and Long, Luxurious Hair!

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Long, Luxurious Hair: The Friend

In the previous posts for the Long, Luxurious Hair Series, we discussed the science behind hair growth and factors that negatively affect the growth process. Armed with that information, we are now able to investigate ways to optimize individual hair growth cycles. The key is to protect the hair from extensive damage and breakage.

The very best way to promote healthy hair growth is from the inside out. Incorporating foods that aid in hair growth and strength is a healthy and safe way to reach the ultimate goal. Hair is made primarily of a strong protein called keratin which is also found in skin and nails. Variations in the amino acids found in keratin account for the differences in texture with some being soft and/flexible and some being hard. Since hair is made of protein, eating foods that are high in protein will be beneficial to the condition of the hair. Iron, B Vitamins, Essential Fatty Acids, Vitamin E and sulfur are also good additions to a healthy hair diet. Adding more of the following foods will be a good start: fish, eggs, leafy green vegetables, yogurt and nuts. Experimenting with different recipes that include these foods is a fun way to change your diet. Stear clear of hair growth supplements, they are potentially dangerous and unnecessary.

Aside from altering your eating habits, there are some topical hair treatments that will help to repair and prevent damage. Moisture is a must for healthy hair. Dry hair is often brittle and easily broken. It is important to note that hair oil products are not moisturizing products. Good moisturizing products will infuse moisture (water) in the hair shaft which hydrates the cuticle layer helping to create shine and prevent breakage and/or split ends. Use shampoos and conditioners that have humectants in the ingredients list. Humectants draw moisture to the hair and hold it there. Some humectants are glycerin, honey, sugar cane, hydrolyzed wheat starch, sodium PCA, panthenol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and acetamide MEA. Also be sure to avoid of sulfates and alcohol which strip the hair of its natural oils.

Heat styling can cause damage to the hair shaft when used in excess. In addition to minimizing the use of heat, you should invest in thermal styling hair products which help to protect the hair from permanent damage and usually have other nutritive properties.

Finally, having your ends trimmed on a regular basis is your hair's very best friend. Split ends are not only unsightly, but they spread. Ragged ends easily get tangled with other strands of hair and cause breakage when the hair is combed or brushed. Uncontrolled split ends continue to split, higher and higher up the hair shaft causing frizzy, dry, damaged looking hair. When this sort of damage is finally addressed, the hair has to be cut much more than it would had it been dealt with early. Most stylists recommend a scheduled trim every six weeks.

In the final post of the series, we will discuss a technique to maintaining healthy hair for optimal hair growth.

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Long, Luxurious Hair : The Enemy

Before I begin discussing "The Enemy", I'd like to give a brief and blunt recap of Part I. Simply put, a person's hair will grow only to the length that their individual growth cycle allows. There is no product or technique that will extend your unique hair growth cycle. That being said, healthy hair should be the ultimate goal. The result of improperly cared for hair is breakage. Naturally breakage abbreviates the potential length of your hair. There are several culprits which negatively affect the hair growth cycle. Included are heat, chemicals and styling products. Here's why:

The most key fact in understanding "The Enemy" is knowing that by the time the hair emerges from the scalp, it is no longer alive. Consider a fresh flower arrangement. Once the flowers are cut, they are no longer receiving a continual supply of the nutrients needed to survive. As the recipient of the flowers, we do all we can to keep the flowers in bloom for as long as possible. We clip the stems at just the right angle, put them in water, add plant food, prune the leaves, etc. Similarly, our hair needs just as much TLC.

Heat styling can be both beneficial and counter-productive. The benefits will be discussed in Part III. When heat is applied to the hair, it breaks the hydrogen bonds (water molecules) found on the cuticle layer. The cuticle layer is then opened and the hair is able to be reshaped and maintains this new shape upon cooling. When water, in liquid or steam form, is introduced, the hydrogen bonds reform and the hair returns to its natural state. Excessive use of heat causes severe damage to the cuticle layer which will eventually lose its ability to "bounce back", thus breakage results.

The majority of American women have chemically altered their hair at some point. This includes permanent waves (perms/jerry curls), relaxers and permanent color treatments. Each involves the use of strong acids or bases which just aren't pretty for anything dead or alive. I'm sure I don't need to prove that, each of those treatments will cause chemical burns on the scalp if left on too long. Damage to the cuticle layer from these processes is inevitable. In the case of permanent color treatments, the product is meant to literally strip the cuticle layer until the desired color is acheived. Sounds painful!

Styling products are not such harsh villains, but they can cause significant damage nonetheless. Typically, mousse, styling/sculpting gel, holding spray, etc contain alcohol which can be very drying to the hair. Paired with the heat from a blow dryer, curling or flat iron, the hair shaft suffers a great deal of damage apparent by split ends and breakage.

Look for Part III where I will discuss how to fight the enemy yet still enjoy the styling we love.

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Long, Luxurious Hair: The Science

The Science is Part I of a 4 part series geared at dispelling the myths, providing the facts and suggesting techniques for optimal hair growth. The topics to be discussed later are The Enemy, The Friend and The Technique.

Fact or Fiction? Anybody can grow long hair with proper care. FICTION-- Here's why:

Each individual has a unique hair cycle which accounts for the length of their hair. A complete hair cycle consists of 3 phases: anagen, catagen and telogen. Anagen is the active growth phase of the hair cycle. The duration of the anagen phase is 3-7 years depending on the individual. In contrast, the rate of hair growth is generally the same for everyone. Hair usually grows at a rate of one centimeter a month; although there are factors that can affect the rate of growth ie season and health. The anagen phase is initiated in the follicle embedded deep in the scalp. Over time, the follicle gradually rises to the surface presenting the hair shaft.

The catagen phase is the rest period for the hair lasting approximately 2-4 weeks. During the catagen phase, the hair is no longer actively growing, however; the follicle is still moving towards the surface of the scalp. The follicle also begins to shrink in size marking its near demise.

The final phase of the hair cycle is the telogen phase. This is the period of time in which the follicle sheds mature hair. The shedding period lasts about 3-4 months. In the telogen phase, hair is either shed naturally or pulled out painlessly in the typical grooming process of shampooing, combing, brushing, etc. With the shedding of old hair, the follicle is ready to cultivate the growth of new hair; thus marking both the ending and beginning of the hair cycle. At any given time, 90% of hair on the scalp is in the anagen phase while the remaining 10% is in the telogen phase.

The anagen phase is the segment of the hair cycle that is responsible for length. Unfortunately the duration of an individual's anagen phase is genetically determined. In other words, there is no way to alter the length of one's anagen phase nor the natural length of one's hair. Hormones play a significant role in the anagen phase and provide an explanation for the variances in hair growth between men and women. Androgen, the male hormone present in both males and females, has the greatest affect on hair growth and thickness. Oestrogen, the female hormone also present in both sexes, decrease the rate of hair growth, yet extend the growth period. In pregnancy, the oestrogen levels are much higher which is why hair tends to grow longer in those 9 months. Ultimately, the balance between androgen and oestrogen in individuals regulates hair growth.

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Personal Branding

We are all familiar with the cliche-- "First impressions are lasting impressions." It seems that today this couldn't be more true. Personal Branding is the concept of packaging yourself in a way that makes you marketable in your career, allows you to command attention when you enter a room and leads to an overall increase in self esteem. The goal is to present yourself in the manner in which you want to be perceived. For many of us, this is simply a matter of playing up existing attributes; for others its a 'fake it til you make it' undertaking.

For the purposes of this post, let's focus on the superficial packaging; the 'you' people perceive at first sight. As much as I despise it, the way you present yourself has great bearing on the opinions formed by others. Excess facial hair gives the idea that you have something to hide. A slovenly appearance indicates laziness and lack of ambition... and so on. The clothes you wear, style of your hair, your makeup routine all say something about who you are as a person or better yet how others view you.

Less considered but no less important is the fragrance you wear. It is a little known fact that smell is the sense most closely related to memory. The scent you wear can invoke thoughts, impressions and memories in others as well as in yourself. Oftentimes, people wear fragrances that are a mismatch to their personality and/or goals. For this reason, I recommend adding a custom fragrance to your personal branding package. A fragrance made to suit your unique persona can not only improve your first impressions, it can also induce confidence, self assurance and assertiveness.

Contact Envie Bath and Body to inquire about custom fragrance services. Introductory pricing applies for a limited time only!

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Lip Plumpers

Every woman wants luscious lips, but not all of us are so blessed. I've become an avid reader of beauty blogs and i can't help but notice that lip plumpers are everywhere! There are plumping glosses, balms, lipsticks, stains-- the list just goes on and on. So of course, my intrigue is how do they work? I've never used a plumper so I didn't have the luxury of flipping it over and reading the ingredients list, but of course I found the active ingredient!

So I've read that these plumpers tingle when applied which leads you to believe they work. Good news, you're right! The tingle sensation is attributed to menthoxypropanediol, a derivative of menthol. The way it works is by causing irritation of the skin resulting in swelling. So why doesn't regular old menthol have the same affect? Well, it can slightly, but menthoxypropanediol is made synthetically in a lab and it is twice as strong as menthol which results in greater irritation.

Because of the way these plumpers work, it is recommended that they are not used daily to prevent damage to the delicate skin on the lips. My suggestion: use sparingly for nights out as a part of your glam look.

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Crazy Week!

Hello All! This week has been like a roller coaster; plenty of ups and downs. I've been coping with the inevitable. Regretfully, my official launch which was originally scheduled for April 1, 2009 must be postponed. There are some loose ends that cannot be tied right now and I just can't reconcile a raggedy launch. My line means too much to me not to be perfect. I am, however, able to offer my custom services. I'm in the process of setting up a temporary website where the services are explained in detail. As soon as it is up and running I will post the URL.

I want to thank everyone who has been a support to me in this venture. Doors and windows are being opened for me everyday. Success is right around the corner!

Now, I owe you all a techie post and an um, what?! post. I'm throwing out the daily post assignments. Life is getting increasingly hectic so I may not be able to post everyday, but you will still get the same substance. Please continue to visit daily and tell your friends about the site.

Thanks!

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Maintenance Monday: You Can Do Anything!

Almost everyone has a dream that seems unattainable. You alone may not think you can pull it off, then you make the mistake of sharing your dream with someone totally undeserving of hearing it and you get the "now what makes you think you can do that?" look. Unfortunately, we can be our own worst enemy and friends and family are our resident goon squad. No wonder the dream seems impossible, there is no faith and positivity behind it.

If there is a dream in your heart, you have the responsibility to work towards it. All things are possible, especially those things you have a strong desire to achieve. The first step to living your dreams is to tell yourself you can do it. Start your mornings by speaking to yourself in the mirror; allowing only positive affirmations to leave your mouth. Example monologue: "Good morning Desiree! The start of this day brings you closer to your dream. You are hardworking, steadfast and dedicated to your goals. The ball is in your court and you're destined to win. Don't allow the negativity of others ruin your day. You are positive and will reap the benefits of your disposition. Have a very productive day! I love you!"

You may find it helpful to write a script to memorize and recite every morning. Having a standard conversation with yourself every morning will prevent you from saying anything negative by accident. Lets face it, some days we just don't feel positive, but positive affirmations can make all the difference on those days. I emphasize the mirror because it is important that you see you telling you great things. You have to believe yourself in order to combat the negativity of others.

Although I would prefer not to hear anyone say what I want can't be done, I accept it as a challenge. I get a kick out of showing Mr. and Mrs. Negative that I can indeed do the impossible. I believe that is a great approach to reversing the negativity-- Oh you don't think I can? Just watch me!!! Prime example--- I'm starting a company during a recession that hasn't even peaked yet, but I can guarantee you I will succeed!

In closing, you know who the nay sayers are. They don't deserve the privilege of knowing your dreams. They'll know soon enough when you're living it!

Be unstoppable!

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