Water: The Ultimate Moisturizer

A few weeks ago, I saw a tweet that baffled me a bit. Someone (I don't remember who) was completely annoyed that the top ingredient in some product was water. My first thought was "Whoa, what's wrong with water?!" More recently, I read about a product line whose claim to fame is "water-free". From a formulator's perspective, water can be a nuisance when you are trying to avoid the use of preservatives. That is a big deal in times like these where the natural, eco and organic movement is in full effect. I'm still not clear why consumers would be up in arms about the presence of water in a formula, but I'm here to tell you why you should love it.

Water is THE ultimate moisturizer. Moisture cannot exist if water is not present, so the primary function of water in a moisturizing product is to be the source of moisture. In a perfect world, water would be all we need to maintain well moisturized skin and hair, but that's just not the way it is. Because water will always evaporate, there needs to be ingredients in a product that act as a barrier to prevent water loss. These barrier (occlusive) ingredients are waxes, vegetable oils and silicone oils. As a bonus, most barrier ingredients come with added benefits like vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, etc.

Another main function of water in a cosmetic formula is to be a solvent. Not only are raw materials concentrated, but they also need a medium to be dispersed. Water dissolves these raw materials and allows them to be used in safe concentrations. [While many raw materials can be used as is, they are equally effective in lesser concentrations.] I fear that some people think water as a top ingredient makes the product "watered down" or ineffective. That couldn't be further from the truth. Consider the amount of laundry detergent you use in relation to the amount of water the fills the washer. The ratio of detergent to water is clearly 1 to 99 yet, you have full confidence that the minute amount of detergent you used will clean your clothes. The same concept applies to water in cosmetics.

Finally, water plays a major role in the texture of a product. Moisturizers and hair conditioners, for instance, benefit from easier application, spreadability (hmmm is that a word?) etc when water is used effectively. Water as a main ingredient can also be indicative of a lighter formula.

Contrary to popular belief, all skin types and hair types need moisture. So the next time you see water as a top ingredient, be thankful that the formulator thought about your need for moisture. Pay closer attention to the types of oils the product uses to lock that moisture in... dry skin and hair will need heavier oils and oily skin will need much lighter oils.

Are you a consumer that's not big on water in cosmetics? How do you feel about it now?

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The How and Why of Formaldehyde

I had the pleasure of attending America's Beauty Show and FACE and BODY in Chicago a couple weekends ago. I had a blast! While I was there, I engaged in an interesting conversation with someone regarding formaldehyde. The conversation was spun from the fact there are now at least 10-15 different Brazilian/keratin hair straightening products and one main ingredient is formaldehyde. So the question was: Why is formaldehyde in cosmetics and why would anyone put it there?

Brazilian Keratin Treatments

I can guarantee you that your hair will not be blown straight just from keratin. We've discussed keratin a bit before, but let's revisit briefly. Keratin is a major protein in skin, hair, nails and teeth. Keratin in the skin is flexible and soft, yet it is hard in hair, nails and teeth. Although the keratin in the straightening treatment does not do the straightening, it does improve the strength and appearance of the hair. I'm reluctant to also say it improves the overall health of the hair because technically hair outside of the follicle is "dead"... but you get my drift. Formaldehyde (in keratin treatments that contain it), is the ingredient that causes the hair to relax. There are keratin treatments that do not use formaldehyde as the straightening agent, however keratin is certainly not the ingredient doing the grunt work. Let's face it, a keratin treatment is a lot more marketable than a formaldehyde treatment :-/

Formaldehyde in other cosmetics

In most other cosmetic applications, formaldehyde is not added directly to the formula. Instead, it is a by-product, so to speak, that increases the effectiveness of certain preservatives. These preservatives work because they release small amounts of formaldehyde over time. [Think: formaldehyde = embalming fluid = preservative] This slow release of formaldehyde means that a product has an ongoing stream of protection from harmful microbes and bacteria. One cosmetic that uses formaldehyde directly is/was nail polish. Formaldehyde is used in nail hardening polishes, not really in the polishes that are more for show than functionality. When you see nail polishes that claim formaldehyde and formaldehyde resin FREE it's largely due to marketability as opposed to an actual difference in the product formula.

Dangers of Formaldehyde

Formaldehyde is certainly a dangerous chemical, but not so much in cosmetics. The FDA has approved the use of formaldehyde in cosmetic applications for hair and skin at no more than 0.2 percent of a formula. Products that contain formaldehyde releasing preservatives have no problem meeting this restriction. Formaldehyde in nail polish products can lawfully be present at 5% of the formula. Studies show most nail hardeners that contain formaldehyde come in well below 5%. Unfortunately, there have been some keratin treatments that have been found to contain 10 times the legal amount of formaldehyde.

When inhaled, formaldehyde can cause respiratory irritation like a burning sensation in the nose and throat. It can also cause sensitivity in the eyes. When I was in undergrad, I worked with formaldehyde (formalin) in large quantities daily. I can say from experience that acute formaldehyde exposure is no joke! Long term inhalation of formaldehyde has been linked to some forms of nasal and lung cancer... and therein lies the problem.

While formaldehyde is not inhaled when from products that use formaldehyde releasing preservatives, it can be inhaled from nail applications and the controversial keratin treatments. From the perspective of both a scientist and a consumer, nail hardeners do not cause me any worry... but the unregulated amounts of formaldehyde in keratin treatments paired with high temps used to make the treatment work cause me great concern.

and with that... Be Glam responsibly!

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Talk to Me!

I realized today that I don't know much about my readers, and my readers may not know much about me. Even on Twitter it surprises me how many people have no idea what I do. I clearly need to toot my own horn a bit more. Nevertheless, this post is dedicated to giving you a closer look at my life... as it relates to beauty... and you doing the same.

So a little about me... You already know I'm a cosmetic chemist. I do contract work and consulting for small businesses, spas/salons and independent beauty professionals who want to market a line of beauty products. Manicurists and Makeup Artists have been my best clients so far. I also do private labeling and wholesaling. The product offerings for those services is growing gradually.

I am vain in the sense that I take pride in the way I look. I'm not the "I know I'm prettier than you" type. I just like to look pretty and I easily recognize and appreciate beauty in other women too. I am the QUEEN of complimenting a stranger :-) I'm obsessive about taking care of my hair and my skin. I spare no expense for hair care and skin care... especially when a product no longer works for me. I don't think I'm a true product junkie, but that's probably only because I can read an ingredients list and instantly know if a product will live up to it's claims. My fave beauty products to buy are lip gloss and nail polish. I keep approximately 5 lip glosses in my purse not including the lip balm and carmex that I tote around. I buy nail polish compulsively, yet I rarely have my nails polished because of the work that I do. I also enjoy perfume... I wear it more for the status. It makes me feel all glamorous and grown up. I create perfume because I enjoy the process and because I can be inspired by so many different things that lead to creating a beautiful perfume.

So that's enough about me. I want to know about you! Tell me, what's your favorite nail polish brand? What nail color is an absolute classic in your eyes? What's the best top coat and base coat? What beauty product or types of products excite you? How often do you wear perfume? What's your signature fragrance? Are you obsessed with lip gloss like me? How long do you wish your lip gloss would last? Do you wear bronzer, foundation or tinted moisturizer? What's your fave makeup brand? Are you into color or are you a neutral gal? When you pamper yourself, what does that include?

I want to hear it all, ladies! So, please leave a comment telling me all about your Glam Life :-)

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The "Formula" in my Hair

I'm going to tell you ladies a secret... are you ready? Here it goes: One night while I was asleep, my son decided to rest his bottle in my hair. I woke up with a mane full of formula! I know what you're thinking... "That is so gross!" "I hope you washed your hair immediately" The answers-- "Not really all that gross." "I washed my hair, eventually."

Allow me to explain. My son suffers from multiple food allergies-- milk and soy included. So instead of drinking the typical milk based formula, cow's milk or soy milk, he drinks a hypoallergenic formula made solely of amino acids. It comes in powder form and I mix it with water. In essence, I had a fantastic conditioning treatment in my hair! Plus it's tropical flavor, so it smells good too. If you'll recall from your high school science classes, amino acids are the building blocks of proteins... and hair is made of a fibrous protein better known as keratin. Put simply, amino acids are hair food.

Amino acids combine to form proteins that will strengthen the hair and possibly help promote hair growth. Keep in mind, everyone's hair growth cycle is different. You can't grow waist length hair if that's not in your DNA. See previous post Long, Luxurious Hair: The Science. Fortunately, you don't have to have a formula incident to reap the benefits of amino acids and/or proteins. The claim to fame for those mayonnaise and egg kitchen conditioning treatments is the fact that they are rich in proteins, thus also rich in amino acids.

These days, cosmeceuticals are growing in popularity. They are no more than a collection of vitamins, minerals, etc that can be taken in pill form or have been packed into special beauty drinks. I'm all for cosmeceuticals-- anything to keep it pretty. Just remember that you can add the same vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, etc to your diet just by incorporating the right foods. Amino acids are included in the list of beauty must haves that you can get find in your foods. Out of 22 amino acids, our bodies can produce 13. The remaining 9 need to be supplemented and are referred to as essential amino acids. Foods such as milk and meat contain all 9 essential amino acids. Remember the tagline for milk? "--it does a body good." Add to that "--it gives you strong, healthy, pretty hair." What woman doesn't want great hair?! Other foods that contain essential amino acids are nuts, beans, soy, peas, rice, wheat and other grains. Alone these sources don't contain all the essential amino acids, but combined you will get all that you need.

The next time you're in the beauty supply, you can be confident in picking up products with amino acids listed in the ingredients. Until then, make sure your diet is giving you all the beauty food you need.

Here's to the Glam Life!

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Science and Controversy

With all the controversy and bad press looming in the cosmetic industry, I thought it was important to speak as both a consumer and a cosmetic chemist. I have had the privilege of following several forum style discussions regarding the safety of cosmetics and personal care products. In these discussions, both scientists and non-scientists provide their "two cents". Normally, a sensationalist begins the discussion with wild claims like "Women put 515 chemicals on their bodies everyday!" or "There's lead in your lipstick and you're eating 7 lbs of it a year!". Think I'm being facetious? I couldn't be more serious. Of course, this is when all the scientists join in with our facts and research, etc because we hate to see the industry being bashed and shown in a negative light.

The Scientist's Brain

Scientists realize that consumers are often skeptical and that they are being fed a lot of misinformation. What the general public doesn't realize is that scientists are by far the most skeptical beings... ever. Our minds are wired to question everything and believe nothing until we have seen the research or performed the research ourselves... it's the scientific method. Once we have the facts, we will fight and argue tirelessly to inform those who don't believe. In the case of the cosmetic industry, some of these arguments and fights occur publicly. It may appear that the scientists are picking on "the little guy", as we often must take our stand against individuals like sales reps from MLM companies or "all natural" companies. The problem is, these individuals rarely know the science behind the ingredients that we use-- both natural and synthetic.

My Note to the Consumer

Be careful what you believe. It's perfectly ok to be skeptical, but be fair with your skepticism. I urge you to not only question claims made by the cosmetic industry, but the claims made by radicals and special interest groups as well. Keep in mind, the research and development department of any major cosmetic company is run by various scientists ie chemists, biologists, chemical engineers, etc. With the "natural" cosmetic companies, not so much. Don't get me wrong, this post is not to bash indie beauty companies in any way. On the contrary, it is meant to bring about awareness and to say "Shame on you." to those companies whose marketing strategy is to shed a negative light on larger, more established companies.

As with any industry, there are some snakes in the grass. There are plenty of cosmetics on the market that make claims they can't live up to. Those products belong to both big brand manufacturers and small cosmetic companies alike. Learn to read your ingredients lists and familiarize yourself with which ingredients are natural and which are synthetic. If you want to know if a product is likely to work, feel free to ask me. Keep in mind, product claims are largely made by marketing departments, not R&D.

Final Points

1. Research shows there is no harm in parabens.
2. Water based products NEED preservatives. If you see water and no preservative, be afraid... be very afraid!
3. Preservatives are your friend... they keep your products safe from nasty little bacterial creatures.
4. Lead is not purposely included in your lipstick as a secret ingredient. Lead is a naturally occurring metal and can inadvertently be introduced to not only your cosmetics, but your food and drink as well. Albeit in TRACE amounts, as it is only found in nature in trace amounts.
5. Cosmetic Scientists use the SAME cosmetics that we market to the general public. We put them on our skin and our children's skin. Sorry to break it to you, but there is no secret society for cosmetic scientists that makes all the "good" products that we keep to ourselves.
6. The nature of any scientist is to research, test, research, test, research some more, test and then share our findings. This is no different for the cosmetic industry.

Knowledge is Hotness, here's to the Glam Life!

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This Means War: Antioxidants vs Free Radicals

I'm sure everyone has heard the terms "free radical" and "antioxidant" before. You generally know, one is bad and the other is good, but do you really know what they are and why they are? Marketing of cosmetics depends on the consumer being a little naive and the marketer sensationalizing the truth. Armed with the facts and a sense of understanding, you can start to chop through some of the claims out there and get to the meat of what the product(s) are all about.

So what is a free radical?

The body, like all matter, is made up of countless molecules. Sometimes oxygen comes along and reacts with molecules that it should not react with, leaving the molecule "undone" and looking for a partner. I like to think of free radicals as renegade puzzle pieces. I know that sounds crazy, but follow me on this one. So these renegade puzzle pieces are on the hunt for a piece that fits, whether it belongs to that puzzle or not. Imagine how crazy the finished puzzle will look if it has pieces that don't even belong. That sort of chaos is the effect that free radicals have on our bodies. In essence, free radicals attack good cells rendering them damaged or destroyed. This process is disastrous to our skin, causing us to age beyond our years, though we're all on a quest to look younger than our years. #conundrum

So how do we fight free radicals?

With antioxidants, of course! Antioxidants (in this sense) do exactly what the name implies, combat oxygen. *side note-- My fellow chemists know this is not the whole truth, but it explains antioxidants' role in this topic.* The antioxidant's job is to keep oxygen from reacting with molecules that it shouldn't, thus preventing the creation of free radicals. Hopefully, this explanation gives you a little more insight as to why cosmetic companies love to claim antioxidants. In a nutshell, they are key ingredients for any anti-aging product.

What should you look for?

The next time you're on the hunt for a great product that will improve the health of your skin and is also anti-aging, look for the antioxidants. The most common antioxidants in a cosmetic product are: tocopherol (Vitamin E), ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), beta-carotene or retinol (think Vitamin A), and green and white teas. Remember, antioxidants are a great addition to your product regimen, but they also work wonders when you add them to your diet. Eat plenty of berries, broccoli, tomatoes, grapes, carrots, etc for your fill of antioxidant goodness.

Here's to the Glam Life!

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Taking a Lesson From Generic

This past Saturday, I sent the kids to hang out with their dad so I could have a little quiet time. While they were gone, I did a little work and indulged in a nice long shower complete with a wash and style :-) Doing my hair is what inspired this post. Generic Value Products is a hair care brand that has capitalized on their right to "reformulate" name brand products that are already a success.

A few years ago, my best friend (who is also my cosmetologist) started using Paul Mitchell's Super Skinny Serum when drying my hair. The product claims to smoothe, soften, condition, seal and reduce drying time. Let me be the first to tell you that it does all of the above. I have thick, long hair that usually takes a half hour to 45 minutes to dry, so this product is a god-send to me. The trouble is, Paul Mitchell products are not cheap by any stretch of the imagination. For someone like me that washes their hair once a week, I need more bang for my buck. Enter Generic with their Smoothing Serum labeled "Compare to: Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Serum" Ding, ding, ding!!!! We've got a winner here!

Allow me to explain a bit. Most personal care products are not protected from being reformulated. Of course some carry patents, but cosmetic chemists have plenty of legal tricks to get around a patent and deliver a comparable product. A lot of people are hung up on brands, especially when it comes to beauty products. A quick comparison of ingredients lists will show you that most store brands are exactly the same as the name brands. In some instances, the name brand products are private labeled to smaller companies and chain stores.

My point is:
1. Don't be afraid to try the store brands. They are often of equal quality and will save you some money.
2. There is a fortune to be made by small businesses in reformulating already successful products. Pick a niche, develop a unique branding strategy and call a chemist (that's me!) to work on the project.

Pretty and Rich?! That's the Glam Life!

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Tough Skin

I spent a few days in New Jersey last week for Fabulous Smells and Cocktails (Review and Pics coming soon) and my friend's launch party. While I was there, I decided to treat myself to a manicure because my hands were in bad shape. Honestly, I was slightly embarrassed at the condition of my paws at my own event, but what can you do? At any rate, while I was in the local nail salon, I watched someone get a pedicure. Yes, I watched! I couldn't help myself. I was appalled because the technician was using a Credo blade on her client's feet. I sat there watching thick layers of skin fall from this poor lady's feet and I cringed every time. If you recall, I did a post on pedicures this past summer in which I was clear on my position. Those things are the devil!

If you have tough/rough skin, it's there for a reason. It's your body's natural defense- it's way of protecting you from harm. That's not to say you have to live with crusty feet. Just be careful how you treat the problem. Credo blades remove far too many layers of skin. You may leave the nail salon with feet smooth as a baby's bottom, but when the skin begins to heal duh-duh-duh-dummmmmm! That skin will grow back thicker and tougher because your body needs to repair the damage and try to keep it from happening again.

Now, my experience at that little nail salon in South Amboy, NJ inspired me to write this post, which is not really about Credo blades. I wanted to explain some of the other options out there for treating those unfortunate calluses. Callus treatments are becoming more and more popular. Most contain a collection of moisturizers, humectants and anti-microbial ingredients. Plus a host of vitamins. The most common ingredient in Callus Removers is dihydroxy propylene which acts as a surfactant, humectant and anti-microbial. Callus Remover treatments are concentrated formulas that quickly soften the skin and allow for easy removal with a pumice stone/pad or foot rasp. With proper upkeep, one Callus treatment should be enough to last the whole summer.

Interesting fact: Callus Removers and Cuticle Removers are usually the same product in different packaging. Read the labels, you'll see ;-)

Callus remover treatments are not your only option. A simple soak once a week and frequent moisturization should keep your skin in decent condition. I also recommend keeping some sort of foot file in the shower. You can upgrade your soak with loose tea (green or white), oatmeal, a drop of tea tree oil, and a few drops of a jojoba oil.

Here's to the Glam Life!

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Fabulous Smells and Cocktails

If you're following me on Twitter (@Glam_Scientist or @envielabs)then I'm sure you've notice how extremely excited I am about Fabulous Smells and Cocktails. Susan Vernicek of Identity Magazine and I have been working nonstop to make sure this event is everything it is promised to be. This is the first of many events that we plan to host across the country. This time around, we're catering to the Glam Women of New York, New Jersey and Philadelphia. The event will be held on January 28, 2010 at 141 South Restaurant and Bar in Union, NJ.

Each of our guests will have the privilege of creating their own custom fragrance with me. I will be right there to give every woman one on one attention to make sure the fragrance she gets is something she will really enjoy. The fragrances we will create will be made from pure essential oils in a base of jojoba oil. Whatever your taste in fragrance, whether its floral, spicy, citrus, oriental or a combination, we will create something you can enjoy that is ALL YOURS! *Insert spookie, mad scientist laugh here*.

In addition to creating your own fragrance, you will have the opportunity to participate in the decision making for the new fragrance in the works for Identity Magazine. Susan wanted a fragrance that would fit the personality of her magazine and celebrate the individuality of her readers. We thought the best way to get the perfect fragrance would be to include you in the process. If you've ever wondered how celebrities "design" a fragrance, this is how! The perfumer presents them with several fragrance samples and the celebrity critiques and evaluates the fragrance until it is something they can agree to. In this case, you are the celebrity. You will sample and comment on 6 or more fragrance options to help Susan and I come to a final decision. How exciting!

Finally, our guests will not only leave with their own personalized fragrance, but with a goodie bag FULL of interesting and unique gifts. We've got premium teas, lip gloss, mini bottles of specialty vodka, free yoga passes, boutique gift cards and so much more. AND.... one of our guests will receive a gift bag valued at over $200 from our raffle.

Susan and I hope that you will come to our event and enjoy all that we have to give. Currently, tickets are only $15, but the price will go up as we get closer to the event. Included in your ticket price are your custom fragrance, drink specials, finger foods and raffle tickets. The bar and kitchen will be open for you to purchase items from the 141 South Restaurant and Bar menu.

Purchase your tickets here: Fabulous Smells and Cocktails

See you soon!

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The Sticky

This post was inspired by my good friend and fellow cosmetic chemist, Kimberly Riley (@KiMiStRyCOS), who recently posted this tweet:

@KiMiStRyCOS: Wondering why your lip gloss is sticky? It's probably comprised of mostly synthetic ingredients #makeupmonday

I couldn't resist the urge to take this statement a bit further by telling you exactly which ingredient(s) are responsible for the sticky texture. Some women like sticky lip gloss because it is long lasting. Makeup artists use the sticky stuff to add an artistic touch to the lips with rhinestones, glitter, sprinkles etc. There are other women, like myself, that don't like the "tacky" feeling, but rather prefer a smooth, moisturizing texture.

The ingredients typically responsible for the sticky texture of lip gloss are polybutene and polyisobutene. Polybutene is a synthetic polymer that acts as a binder, epilating agent (hair removal) and a viscosity increasing agent. It is a sticky, non-drying liquid that is also used in adhesives. The Cosmetic Ingredients Review has deemed this ingredient safe as it is currently used. You may also find this ingredient in lipstick, eye makeup and other skin care products.

Polyisobutene is a close cousin to polybutene. It is also a binder and viscosity increasing agent used in cosmetics. Unlike polybutene, polyisobutene dries to leave a thin coating on the surface of the lips. Low molecular weight polyisobutenes are thick, soft and tacky liquids. Polybutene is typically used in water based formulations, while polyisobutene is used in oil based formulations.

One of my biggest pet peeves about lip gloss and lipstick alike is that some formulas tend to cause my lips to peel. I believe polyisobutene is the culprit responsible for this gross occurrence. Of course, I will take a closer look at this to confirm or deny the accusation in the near future.

So that's "the sticky". Use it to live life glamorously :-)

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Makeup Mondays Exposed

As you may already know, I'm an avid tweeter (can I say that?! lol). I primarily follow people who share my interest in beauty, makeup, skin care and fashion. So you can imagine my twitter feed is on fire on #makeupmonday. Periodically, I will do a post explaining the science behind one or more of the tips from #makeupmonday.

This post was inspired by a new twitter friend of mine, @AnonamusPoetry who suggested the use of Monistat Soothing Care Chafing Relief Powder-Gel as a foundation primer. So I already know what you're thinking... "Isn't Monistat for yeast infections?" Yes and no. Monistat makes yeast infection treatments, but the chafing relief gel is not such a product. The key to a great makeup primer is silicone oil. The Monistat Soothing Care Chafing Relief Powder-Gel contains plenty of silicone oils! The results of the Monistat product as a foundation primer have been compared to that of Smashbox Photo Finish Primer. Let's compare the ingredients:

Monistat Soothing Care Chafing Relief Powder-Gel

Cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone, crosspolymer, silica, tocopheryl acetate and trisiloxane.

Smashbox Photo Finish Primer

Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Butylparaben, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Glycol, Water, Grape Seed Extract, Kolanut Seed Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Do you see the similarities? Both are heavy on the silicones ie cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, cyclomethicone. Remember, when reading ingredients lists the ingredients are listed in descending order with the most abundant ingredient first. Silicone oils are most often found in conditioning products. They have a slick, velvety texture which makes them a fantastic ingredient for makeup primers.

In comparing the two products, the Smashbox Photo Finish Primer does have a much more impressive ingredients list due to ethylhexyl salicylate (sun protection) and the various extracts which are high in antioxidants. However, if you are already using a great moisturizer (which you should be, shame on you if you're not) then the Monistat product will serve it's purpose well plus, it's a much cheaper alternative. For those of you that are wary of using an intimate care product on your face, remember this-- your lady parts are much more delicate and sensitive than the skin on your face.

Here's to the Glam Life!!!

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Lip Service

So, lip gloss makes me happy and I'm not ashamed :-)I have about 5 glosses in my purse at the moment and I still feel like that's not enough. Don't worry, I'll be adding to my arsenal soon with a couple brands I'm working on and one that my good friend Kim Riley has developed. I digress...

The real purpose of this post is to discuss the properties of the lips and why all lip products are not created equal. Like the rest of our body, our lips are covered with 3 layers of skin: stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis. The stratum corneum is the outer most layer of skin that protects the epidermis. The stratum corneum on the lips is much thinner than that on the rest of our bodies. Thus, the stratum corneum of our lips is much more delicate and requires more specialized care. Another significant difference in the skin on our lips and our bodies is that our lips do not have sebaceous glands. Since our lips don't excrete any necessary oils or moisture, lip care products are a must. Also, the amount of melanin in our lips is considerably less than that of the rest of our skin. Sun damage is real and devastating to our beauty, our lips need and deserve a good sunscreen.

One major problem I have had with several lip products on the market is that they cause my lips to peel. I think that is extremely gross and unsightly. The reason behind this peeling phenomenon is actually pretty simple and easy to avoid. Some lip care products are heavy in occlusive ingredients. Occlusive products, also known as barriers,are characterized as products meant to lock in moisture. Knowing that our lips don't produce moisture, what is an occlusive product actually doing? Trapping dryness and making your lips even more dry!

So what ingredients should you avoid? Primarily mineral oil and petrolatum. Other natural occlusive agents may be used in lip balm products which is what gives them their stiff/dense consistency. Ingredients like beeswax, candelilla wax and carnauba wax are not too bad when other skin softening, emollient ingredients are used. Some good ingredients to look for are jojoba oil, almond oil, coconut oil and olive oil. These oils will easily absorb in your skin and provide some much needed nutrients and moisture.

So back to my love of lip gloss... because of the typical consistency of lip gloss, it can easily avoid overusing occlusive agents and can maximize all kinds of amazing oils and extracts.

So now that I've given you the skinny... do the glam thing and give yourself a little lip service :-)

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Update: Parabens

This past February, I did a post discussing parabens-- what they are, what the rumors are and whether or not the rumors were true. You can find that post here: Parabens

New research has been released that shows parabens don't cause any hormonal activity in the body. Florian Schellauf of Colipa (The European Cosmetics Association) recently presented research regarding propyl- and butylparabens that were introduced both orally and topically in laboratory rats. The study showed that the parabens are significantly absorbed orally, but only partially through the skin. Although there is some absorption through the skin, the research shows that the parabens are fully metabolized BEFORE they reach the blood stream. As proof of this finding, blood plasma tests were conducted that showed only the presence of the paraben metabolite p-hydroxybenzoic acid (pHBA) not the parabens themselves. These findings held true whether the parabens were introduced orally, dermally or subcutaneously (by injection just beneath the skin's surface). Thus far, pHBA is not known to have any estrogenic effects and can be found in our food and plant life naturally. That means, you are already ingesting the paraben metabolite more than likely on a daily basis. IF pHBA is causing trouble via your cosmetics, then it would be causing problems via the food you eat too. Think about it...

So the final word on this research study as put forth by Colipa is:

“The study confirms the results of a number of research studies, which concluded from their work that parabens are metabolised rapidly and to a large extent in living organisms and therefore cannot exhibit any adverse effects,” --Colipa.

Based on the science, I still see no harm in the use of parabens-- especially in the extremely low concentrations that are used in cosmetic preparations. We shall continue to see how the story unfolds. For now, if you are a consumer that has chosen to steer clear of parabens, there's no harm in caution. Just know, the science is on their side.

For more information on this study, view the original article here: New data on parabens

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Mineral Oil

Mineral oil is a standard ingredient in many skin care applications including lotions, baby care products and cold creams. The verdict is still out on whether or not mineral oil is a natural ingredient. Mineral oil is the by-product of petroleum distillation for the process of making gasoline. Vaseline is also a by-product of this process. In skin care, mineral oil is said to work as a thin coating on the skin to help trap moisture. It does NOT draw moisture to the skin from the atmosphere. Mineral oil is not easily absorbed by the skin and thus is possibly comedogenic meaning it can clog the pores. Clogged pores slow the skin's ability to eliminate toxins which is never a good thing.

Aside from the cosmetic problems mineral oil can cause, there are some more serious implications. Once mineral oil is absorbed by the skin, it is metabolized and travels through the intestinal tract. Mineral oil will absorb fat soluble vitamins from the body and carries them out with it in bodily waste. Essentially, mineral oil has the potential to steal vital nutrients from our bodies. There have actually been some cases of [lipoid] pneumonia that were found to be caused by mineral oil.

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Unscented vs Fragrance Free

With so many allergies, sensitive skin problems and the growing desire to "go green", consumers are opting for products that don't contain any added fragrance-- or so they think. Unfortunately, there is quite a bit of ambiguity on the part of the FDA regarding appropriate wording for products that contain no added fragrance.

My twitter friend, Krissy90220, noticed that one of her personal care products was labeled "unscented" but had "fragrance" listed in the ingredients. Krissy, like most consumers felt that the label was misleading and illegal even... but, according to the FDA, this is quite alright.

There is no documented FDA definition for "unscented" or "fragrance free" which means the terms can be used freely on product labels. The FDA does, however, require that if fragrance is used in a product it be listed in the ingredients. Generally speaking, unscented is used when a product contains fragrance only to mask the chemical smell of other ingredients in the formula. Fragrance free is most often used when no fragrance exists in the formula at all. It's not likely that leading brands will have truly fragrance free products due to the number of synthetic ingredients that are typically used. Small handmade product lines that are labeled unscented or fragrance free are more likely to be authentic. If you find a product that is labeled unscented or fragrance free, does not list fragrance in the list, but still smells scented, it is probably misbranded. Misbranding is subject to penalty by the FDA and should be reported due to the possible implications.

If you have sensitivities to fragrant chemicals and seek a product that undoubtedly contains no fragrance, the front label will not give you all the assurances you need. Always read the ingredients list on the back label of a product to be sure that what you perceive is what you will receive.

Until next time... Here's to the glam life!

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Hope for the Dry Skin Woes

I rarely toot my own horn on my blog. I like to take a different approach to advertising. But, the last blog I posted happens to be the perfect set up for me to rave about Envie (on-vee-ay).

Two key points I touched on in the "Dry, Itchy, Flaky Skin" post were:

1. Dry skin needs to be slathered in a very thick moisturizer while the skin is still moist to improve the performance of the moisturizer and to help the skin retain as much moisture as possible.

2. Dry skin is better served if it is massaged rather than scrubbed. Abrasive bath accessories and scrubbing action damage the very fragile, dry skin.

And now for the pitch:



The Envie Bath and Body Conditioning Body Butter Creme is a super thick moisturizer packed with vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids. It certainly passes the thick moisturizer test-- Put some in the palm of your hand then turn it upside down... this thick creme won't budge! Heavy duty moisturizing ingredients include shea butter, avocado oil, marajuca oil and pumpkin seed oil. It is highly emollient, yet non-greasy which means you can apply it right before you get dressed in the morning, or before you go to bed at night. The Envie Conditioning Body Butter Creme gets my seal of approval, but of course I'm biased. ;-) Visit our website to purchase a jar for yourself and a friend. http://envielabs.com

Massaging the skin helps to improve circulation and cell regeneration. Ultimately, it is a very gentle way to exfoliate and you already know how much I heart exfoliation. Envie will be selling handmade chenille bath mitts to add another touch of luxury to your bathing experience. The chenille fabric is soft, plush and luxurious and is perfect to buff your skin to perfection. These bath mitts will be available in limited quantities, so be on the lookout-- you don't want to miss this treat!

Thanks to the dry skin post, I have a few grand ideas for new products. I LOVE what I do! Here's to the glam life!

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Dry, Itchy, Flaky Skin

So... I realized today that I hadn't posted a blog in almost two months. That is totally unacceptable! I'm back with a vengeance. I thought it was an appropriate time to tackle the problem of dry skin. During the fall and winter months more people begin to experience the discomforts of dry skin. I'd like to discuss a few of the causes of dry skin and also some treatments. Let me warn you, some are unconventional and they go against a lot of what I've been doing to treat me own dry skin all these years, but they are all certainly worth a shot. After all, dry skin really sucks!

Unfortunately, some of us have a genetic predisposition for dry skin also known as xerosis. Others of us have dry skin as the result of external factors. Ideally, our skin is coated with a thin layer of natural lipids and fatty substances which are meant to help us retain moisture. Dry skin occurs when the sebaceous glands don't produce enough oil to protect our skin or when the oils are stripped from our skin by external factors. Those external factors could be dry air, harsh winds, abrasive bathing accessories like bath poofs and loofa sponges, harsh soaps and hot water. Regardless of the cause, the treatment options are generally the same. The following are tips to help soothe and eliminate your dry skin.

1. Avoid hot water and long showers or baths. Hot water strips the natural oils from the skin. It is better to shower in lukewarm water and keep it short. Shower for just 3 minutes to prevent loss of moisture. If you can't keep it short, make it long. After about 15 minutes your skin starts to retain moisture from the shower. You can tell your skin is absorbing the water by the appearance of your fingertips. If they are wrinkly, the water has made its way in.

2. Many of us really give ourselves a good scrub in the shower. I know I'm guilty of keeping a trusty bath poof hanging in the shower. I think they are great for exfoliation, but they may be causing more harm than good. Dry skin is much more sensitive than normal skin. A good comparison would be the difference between leaves in the spring and leaves in the fall. Spring leaves are smooth, pliable, flexible, not easily broken. Fall leaves, however, are brittle, dry, fragile and crumble easily. Dry skin is like fall leaves. So instead of scrubbing your dry skin, use a plush washcloth or another soft, luxurious bath accessory to massage your body. The soap does the cleaning, the massage will stimulate blood flow and oil production.

3. Avoid harsh soaps. We LOVE to see a good lather from our soap, body wash, or shower gel. Unfortunately, all those bubbles rinse away and take those precious natural oils with them. So, don't overdo it with the soap products. Whether you see a good lather or not, the soap will do its job. Unsavory, but true: Soap is really only a daily necessity for the "hot spots". The arms, legs and abdomen can really be well served by a good rinse daily--lather maybe once or twice a week. Have I done this? Yes and no. My son suffers from severe eczema. I use soap on him once a week. Every other day, he gets a quick soak in the tub. I think his skin thanks me for that. :-)

4. Immediately following the shower PAT dry. DO NOT RUB YOUR SKIN DRY. You want to leave your skin hydrated to improve the performance of the moisturizer you choose. For dry skin, the thicker the moisturizer the better. You want to use a heavy, highly emollient moisturizer to replenish the skin and have long term effects. Bonus tip: Use a "barrier" to lock in moisture. Good barriers are oil based products that may also be considered ointments. A popular and effective barrier product is Aquafor. A less common, yet more effective barrier product is Crisco Vegetable Shortening. Yes, I am recommending cooking oil for your skin! That's just another trick I picked up caring for my son's skin. It does an excellent job of keeping the skin moisturized, soft and supple.

5. In the cold winter months, a little extra coverage could go a long way in protecting your skin from the elements. Of course you want to wear coats, hats, scarves, gloves etc. But, your legs could benefit from a little extra coverage too. Opt for those unsightly tall tube socks that men wear. They will keep your legs protected from the cold air which can creep up your pants legs. I personally love the tall socks. True, they're ugly, but they are warm and they keep your legs from sweating in your knee boots. ;-)

6. Changes in your diet could also have a positive impact on the condition of your skin. Drink plenty of water. Half your body weight in ounces is the recommended daily amount. So if you're 100 lbs, you need to drink atleast 50 oz of water a day. Avoid alcohol and caffeine which cause the body to eliminate water. Eat foods that are rich in vitamins and essential fatty acids. That means plenty of colorful fruits and vegetables and fatty fish like salmon. Flax seed oil is also a great source of essential fatty acids.

Dry, flaky skin is not glamorous by any stretch of the imagination. Take care of your skin, it will thank you for it.

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Scent Inspiration: Alexander McQueen

I have a thing for fashion... I love clothes, shoes, handbags and accessories. I do an awful lot of window shopping on the web planning my next purchase or daydreaming about the day when I can afford the item I want. This time the most coveted item was a pair of Alexander McQueen booties-- Faithful Booties to be exact. Oh, how these shoes made my heart skip a beat! Finely crafted black leather, peep toe, zippers, buttons, skulls... in a word HOT!!!! So daydreaming of the day I could purchase a pair of $1155 shoes without guilt evolved into a scent inspiration. After all, cosmetics and fragrance development is my black card.

The Alexander McQueen Faithful Booties inspire a scent that is representative of every good girl's inner bad girl. We all have one, whether we let her out or not. She's the rebel, the girl that doesn't want to play by the rules, wants to be sexy not just beautiful, would love to hang out all night and call off work in the morning. This scent is for her! I envision an intoxicating scent reminiscent of the smell of a new leather jacket and fresh tobacco. Crisp notes of cognac, lime and grapefruit add character to the scent. Of course there's more to the fragrance, but I can't give away ALL my secrets, right?!

More scent inspirations coming soon. :-)

**Picture taken from http://alexandermcqueen.com

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All Things Accutane

At the request of my dear twitter friend Justmiaiam, this post will cover the good, the bad and the ugly of accutane. Unfortunately its mostly bad and ugly... let's dive in. Please note, I couldn't possibly cover all the side effects of this drug, seriously its just that bad.

Accutane is one of 4 brand names for the acne drug generically known as isotretinoin. The remaining 3 brand names are Amnesteem, Claravis and Sotret. So what is it exactly? Accutane is a form of Vitamin A that works by minimizing the amount of natural oil produced by the skin. It is usually prescribed for severe nodular acne after other treatments have proven uneffective. However, a 2 year congressional study found that doctors have prescribed the drug to teens and women with only mild acne symptoms. Accutane is much too powerful for that.

The "bad" side effects:

Some users of Accutane have attributed hair loss (sometimes permanent)to the drug. Because this drug works by altering the oil production and cell regeneration it causes the hair and skin to become extremely dry and fragile which leads to thinning and loss. The hair loss can be anywhere including the eyebrows, eyelashes and scalp. Other users claim that the drug has caused severe back and joint pain that has persisted even after use of the drug has been discontinued. Other "bad" side effects include poor vision, sensitivity to light, dry mucous membranes (nose, lungs, bladder, anus) and depression which could of course lead to more serious problems like psychosis and suicidal thoughts.

Now for the "ugly":

Accutane has been known to cause severe birth defects and miscarriage. This is more than just a notion. In fact, the warning is so strong that the FDA requires patients to be enrolled in iPledge a program that ensures individuals taking the drug are not pregnant and will not become pregnant while on the drug. The iPledge programs requires that patients must be on (2) forms of birth control and must receive regular pregnancy tests before, during and after treatment as any amount of Accutane (no matter how miniscule) can cause severe birth defects. Common birth defects are of baby's ears, eyes, face, skull, brain and heart. So why does Accutane effect the reproductive system so severely? The drug contains parabens which demonstrate estrogenic activity, imbalances of human sexual hormones wreak havoc on the reproductive system. Other "ugly" side effects include stroke, seizures, low white blood count (susceptibility to fungal and bacterial infections)and liver damage... just to name a few.

The moral of the story is... while Accutane may prove effective in treating and clearing acne symptoms long term, the side effects are common and far too severe to risk.

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Acne: Treating the Culprit

Now that we've discussed factors that cause acne, we can explore the treatments. The two most common acne treatments are benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid.

Benzoyl peroxide works by killing the bacteria that causes acne. This bacteria (Propionibacteria acne)cannot live in an oxygen rich environment. The structure of benzoyl peroxide actually contains 4 Oxygen atoms per molecule (that's a lot). In essence this ingredient floods the pores with oxygen thereby killing the acne causing bacteria. Benzoyl peroxide also works to keep the pores clear of dead skin cells. Thus, not only does it treat acne, but it helps to prevent future breakouts. This treatment is most effective on mild to moderate acne and can be used with other acne treatments. Because there is no real cure for acne, treatment must be ongoing to ensure clear skin. Benzoyl peroxide is overwhelmingly popular in part because there are no known side effects that come with prolonged use.

Benzoyl peroxide is available in many forms including liquid, cream and bar cleansers, toner, concentrated cream, shaving cream, gel etc. The general consensus is to start treatments in a concentration of 2.5% for at least three weeks and track the results. Benzoyl peroxide is available in stronger concentrations, however, they are a lot more irritating to the skin so the side effects may outweigh the benefits in some situations. The goal is to use the lowest and most effective concentration possible. It is important to note benzoyl peroxide is not to be used as a spot treatment. This ingredient is known to be drying, so it is important to use a good non-comedogenic (doesn't clog pores) moisturizer. Also, peroxides are bleaching agents so avoid getting them in your hair, or on clothes and towels.


Unlike benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid does not treat acne bacteria. It is used to treat acne caused by clogged pores that appear in the form of white and blackheads. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that sloughs away dead skin cells that could possibly clog the pores. It is able to penetrate the pores keeping them clear and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is available over the counter in lotion, cream, cleanser, toner, and pre-soaked application pads. Most treatment concentrations range from 0.5% to 2%. Proper use of salicylic acid as an acne treatment would be to start with either the application pads or lotion/cream to get acne under control. Once your skin has cleared it is safe to graduate to a once a week wash or scrub. The use of more than one form of the treatment is highly discouraged as salicylic acid can be very drying and irritating. Similar to benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid treatments must be ongoing to continue to see positive results. Possible side effects are stinging, burning and excessive dryness. As always be sure to use a good moisturizer.

In the next post of this series will discuss a few less common acne treatments, spot acne treatments and Accutane by request. Until then...

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