The Spirit of Competition

It is inevitable, every business has competition. There's always going to be another company that offers the same or similar products/services as your own. As the saying goes-- There's nothing new under the sun. In order to grow a strong, successful cosmetic company, you must familiarize yourself with the competition and learn how to compete. Most people understand the concept of competition, but not everyone knows how to compete effectively.

The biggest mistake I see startups make is trying to make a product too much like one that already exists. What I find fascinating is that usually companies start out with a very unique idea yet end up with a product that is not equally unique. I know exactly how it happens because I've seen it a time or two. In the midst of studying the competition and seeing what it is that people like about their products, you start to convince yourself that consumers will only find use for products that are just like the ones that already exist. Oh ye of little faith! Give consumers a little credit... they like what they like until something comes along that is.... drumroll.... BETTER. Understand that an existing company has already carved out it's fan base. There are consumers who use those products loyally because of product performance and the relationship that has been built over time. To introduce a product to the marketplace that virtually already exists is a huge risk. It's challenging enough to convince consumers to give your product a try so when they do try it, give them a reason to keep coming back. The key to being able to compete and (ultimately) win, is to stand out. Below are my 5 tips to winning in business:

1. Decide what you want to sell and who you want to compete with.

2. Get to know what your competition has done to find success.

3. Improve on what your competition has to offer. **When I say improve on the competition, I don't mean take their exact product and add a little something to it. I mean study the benefits and results their product. Find out what their fans love about their product and then develop your own product that tops the competition.

4. Customize your product/brand to suit YOU ie your personality, style, thought processes, etc.

5a. Market it.

5b. Market it some more. Branding and visibility go a loooooonnnnng way in getting your product(s) the attention they deserve.

If you follow my advice, you'll be well on your way to thriving business.

Here's to the Glam Life!

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Water: The Ultimate Moisturizer

A few weeks ago, I saw a tweet that baffled me a bit. Someone (I don't remember who) was completely annoyed that the top ingredient in some product was water. My first thought was "Whoa, what's wrong with water?!" More recently, I read about a product line whose claim to fame is "water-free". From a formulator's perspective, water can be a nuisance when you are trying to avoid the use of preservatives. That is a big deal in times like these where the natural, eco and organic movement is in full effect. I'm still not clear why consumers would be up in arms about the presence of water in a formula, but I'm here to tell you why you should love it.

Water is THE ultimate moisturizer. Moisture cannot exist if water is not present, so the primary function of water in a moisturizing product is to be the source of moisture. In a perfect world, water would be all we need to maintain well moisturized skin and hair, but that's just not the way it is. Because water will always evaporate, there needs to be ingredients in a product that act as a barrier to prevent water loss. These barrier (occlusive) ingredients are waxes, vegetable oils and silicone oils. As a bonus, most barrier ingredients come with added benefits like vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, etc.

Another main function of water in a cosmetic formula is to be a solvent. Not only are raw materials concentrated, but they also need a medium to be dispersed. Water dissolves these raw materials and allows them to be used in safe concentrations. [While many raw materials can be used as is, they are equally effective in lesser concentrations.] I fear that some people think water as a top ingredient makes the product "watered down" or ineffective. That couldn't be further from the truth. Consider the amount of laundry detergent you use in relation to the amount of water the fills the washer. The ratio of detergent to water is clearly 1 to 99 yet, you have full confidence that the minute amount of detergent you used will clean your clothes. The same concept applies to water in cosmetics.

Finally, water plays a major role in the texture of a product. Moisturizers and hair conditioners, for instance, benefit from easier application, spreadability (hmmm is that a word?) etc when water is used effectively. Water as a main ingredient can also be indicative of a lighter formula.

Contrary to popular belief, all skin types and hair types need moisture. So the next time you see water as a top ingredient, be thankful that the formulator thought about your need for moisture. Pay closer attention to the types of oils the product uses to lock that moisture in... dry skin and hair will need heavier oils and oily skin will need much lighter oils.

Are you a consumer that's not big on water in cosmetics? How do you feel about it now?

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Um, What?! Wednesday: PPG Stearyl Ether

Polypropylene glycol stearyl ether is mainly found in 'moisturizing' personal care products. It is written as PPG-11 or PPG-15 stearyl ether in the ingredients lists. This ingredient is made by the reaction between propylene oxide and stearyl alcohol. Stearyl alcohols come from animal fats and oils (vegans beware!). The 11 or 15 designation is based on the 'units' of propylene glycol produced in the reaction.

PPG-11/15 stearyl ethers are known lubricants meant to give the skin a moisturized look and feel. They are also classified as skin conditioning agents and emollients. The chemicals have been deemed safe at the concentrations typical of most cosmetic applications they are found in. Even concentrated, these chemicals did not irritate the eyes. A related chemical, PPG butyl ether was found to be slightly irritating to the eyes and skin. It is absorbed very slowly-if at all- into the digestive tract where it is easily metabolized and eliminated as waste in the urine.

As time progresses and my knowledge increases, I'm becoming more compelled to make the switch to all natural personal care products. I currently use over the counter products, all of which contain the ingredients I've reviewed thus far. I have not experienced any known irritation to the products I use daily and I am satisfied (most of the time) with the results--- I have very tempermental skin! I just can't help but wonder what long term effects my drug of choice may be having on my well-being. Think about it for yourself.

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Timeless Treasures Thursday: Coty, Inc

Coty was never a household name for me until I began my hunt for the perfect cosmetic company to work for. Now that I am developing my own company, I wanted to know what led to the success of Coty, Inc. Coty, Inc was founded in 1904 (wow! talk about timeless treasure!) by a Corsican by the name of Francois Spoturno-- the name a spin off from his mother's maiden name Coti. A company of humble beginnings, Spoturno built his first makeshift laboratory in his flat. After just four years of marketing his first fragrance, he was profitable enough to open a factory. With the new factory also came a new face powder. Coty, Inc catered to the most wealthy patrons, but also offered smaller sizes of his products at prices a young Parisian girl could afford.

Coty, Inc continued to introduce new products, and was the first to manufacture a series of products in the same scent (great idea, its still widely used). The company proved to be ahead of rhe pack not only in product development but in the containers and packaging it used as well. Over the years the company has changed hands several times due to death and retirement, but it is still a fierce competitor in the industry. Coty, Inc is now a subsidiary of Joh. A. Benckiser GmbH. Notable brands include: Lady Stetson, Rimmel and Calgon.

To read more on the history of Coty, Inc follow the link in my References section.

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In Black and White

My inspiration for my cosmetic line comes from just about everything; jewelry, fashion, furniture, nature, colors--- you get the picture. Today I'm focused on a timeless fashion staple... black and white. I've had a thing for this color scheme for about 7 years now... I'm so fortunate that it never goes out of style! At any rate, I'm in search of some interesting perfume and/or apothecary bottles and I thought "how classy would a black and white bottle be?!" So armed with inspiration from two very fashionable dresses, I began my hunt for some haute fragrance bottles. TaDaaaaa!!!!

I think the best way to compliment such a straight forward look is to soften it with feminine makeup (no lipstick, just gloss or stain) and a light fragrance-- something floral or citrus. Let's face it, when wearing the most contrasting color scheme you're commanding enough attention!!!

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Um, What?! Wednesday

This is the very first Um, What?! Wednesday! Every Wednesday I'm going to break down one ingredient commonly found in personal care products; giving you the good, the bad and the ugly. Today its all about EDTA, my absolute favorite chemical (don't ask me why, I'm a nerd!). Here are the facts:

EDTA and its salts-- anything listed that has EDTA somewhere in the name-- is found in just about all skin care treatments including lotions, creams, body wash, soap, shampoos and conditioners. Its official chemical name is (insert deep breath here) ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid. Its defining quality is the ability to bind metal ions. Popular applications in your personal care products are preservative and foaming/lather agent. As a preservative it prevents deterioration of the product, protects the fragrance, and prevents rancidity (common in products whose ingredients include water). It combines with metals such as calcium, magnesium and iron to achieve foam or lather. EDTA also keeps metals from being deposited on your hair, skin and scalp (cleanliness is of utmost importance right?).

Not only is this chemical known for getting the job done, its also been deemed safe by the FDA for food and cosmetic applications. That's right, its safe enough to eat!!!! In reference to cosmetic and personal care applications, it is not a skin irritant or sensitizer, nor is it a carcinogen (won't cause cancer). It results in very little skin penetration, so if found in your blood stream, its only in trace amounts.

I absolutely love this chemical!!!! See you next Wednesday!

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What "Green" Really Means...

I stumbled upon an article in an issue of Cosmetiscope-- a journal for cosmetic scientists-- detailing what 'green' means in the cosmetic industry. What I once thought to be no more than an eco-fad has quickly become quite important to a great majority internationally. Here's what I learned...

In order to be considered green the cosmetic manufacturer must make an effort to prevent waste. Generally chemical waste is detrimental to the environment so you can see why this would be important. A few other requirements are linked to preventing or reducing waste, so I'll discuss them now. Any substance that is used for the sole purpose of making a reaction work has to be renewable. It cannot be 'used up' in the process and it cannot be inactive when the process is complete. Similarly, green processes minimize the creation of side products that cannot be used in other applications. In addition, green processes make use of what I would call personal assistants which speed up the reaction and minimize the amount of starting material needed.

Next on the chopping block-- unnecessary chemicals. All the ingredients tossed into the mixing bowl have to be needed for effective application of the product. In other words, all those 15-35 letter ingredients that fascinate me so much (nerdy I know!) have to be in there for a darn good reason! Additionally, a fantastically green product serves its purpose and then calls it quits leaving no chemical scars on our blessed environment. And just for good measure, a real-time pollution prevention tool should be in place. Toxicity and risk of chemical disaster-- like explosions, fires, gas leaks (no big deal, right?) are kept to a minimum.

And with all the talk about energy conservation locally and on capital hill, its no mystery why the cosmetic industry would strive to be particular about the energy use in their chemical processes.

Stay tuned to see how well your cosmetic company of choice is doing with the transition!

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